Nina Ricci Fall 2025 PFW: 1970s Seduction Meets Androgyny

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by brownfashionagal

This Harris Reed collection for Nina Ricci is easily his strongest yet. For once, there’s a clear direction—though exactly what that direction is remains open to interpretation. What’s undeniable is that he’s moved away from his kitschier tendencies and delivered some truly standout pieces.

Inspired by a Helmut Newton photograph from the ‘70s, Reed leaned into the era’s seductive, louche glamour. Think Saint Laurent’s sleek androgyny, Tom Ford’s jewel-toned sensuality, and a touch of Carine Roitfeld’s signature French-girl nonchalance. Styled by Roitfeld herself, the show felt freer, looser, and altogether more self-assured.

Models glided down a black gravel runway, framed by streetlamps, in slipdresses with plunging necklines, sheer blouses paired with high-waisted corset trousers, and oversized faux-fur coats thrown over micro-minis. Reed’s signature androgynous tailoring remained a strong point—one ivory three-piece suit with a citrine faux-fur stole stood out in particular.

Unlike many heritage brands, Nina Ricci’s archives are sparse, allowing Reed to shape the brand’s identity as he sees fit. That’s both a blessing and a challenge—it means Ricci sometimes risks looking like a pastiche of bigger fashion houses. But this season, Reed seemed to strike the right balance between referencing the past and pushing forward.