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Julian Klausner had big shoes to fill, taking over from Dries Van Noten, but his debut Fall/Winter 2025 collection proved he’s more than up for the challenge. Choosing the grand Palais Garnier as the venue was a statement in itself—dramatic, historic, and full of stories, much like the collection he presented.
From the first look, a floor-length wool coat with exposed stitches, it was clear that Klausner wasn’t looking to reinvent the wheel but rather evolve the brand’s DNA with a fresh perspective. He balanced Dries’ signature elements—rich textures, opulent fabrics, and unexpected embellishments—with his own refined vision. Silhouettes were structured yet fluid, with capes, tailored outerwear, and silk tops in deep, moody tones setting the stage for a collection that felt both nostalgic and modern.
The usual explosion of prints and patterns was dialed back, with muted stripes and layered mini skirts creating a more subdued but still intricate aesthetic. Gold-trimmed knitwear shimmered like hidden treasure, transitioning into a deep burnt orange before culminating in striking jewel tones—fuchsia, emerald, sapphire, and amethyst. The use of luxurious materials like velvet, rug jacquards, and tassels added a touch of theatricality, fitting for the opera setting.
There was a certain sense of Indianness to the craftsmanship, which was unrealistically beautiful and added an extra layer of richness to the collection.Klausner’s attention to detail was impressive, from whipstitched shoelaces on coats to embroidered collars that felt almost regal. The whole collection had an intense, regal, moody vibe that felt true to Dries Van Noten’s legacy. His understanding of the house’s heritage was evident, yet he infused the collection with a newfound sensuality and spontaneity. DVN was one of my favorite designers, and I’m glad to see this collection—his essence is there.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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