Balmain Fall 2025 PFW: Cocooning, Not Constricting

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by brownfashionagal

Olivier Rousteing’s latest Balmain collection marks a notable shift—one that trades his signature structured, high-octane glam for something softer and more understated. “Cocooning” was the word he used to describe it, and the runway delivered on that promise. Oversized knits, draped wool coats, and slouchy silhouettes gave the collection an effortless ease, a far cry from the heavily embellished, rigidly tailored pieces we usually associate with Balmain.

But make no mistake—Rousteing’s touch was still present. While he swapped out his go-to gold bullion for muted grays and soft textures, the drama was still there in the form of exaggerated proportions. Think sculptural coats with oversized lapels, thigh-high scrunched boots, and zebra patterns that added a fierce touch to an otherwise relaxed lineup. Even the peplums, a throwback to Balmain’s history, made a reappearance, but in a way that felt fresh rather than nostalgic.

Perhaps the biggest surprise was the absence of shoulder pads, a staple in Rousteing’s Balmain era. The absence of structure—especially the missing signature shoulder pads—felt intentional, but it also made certain looks feel less distinctly Balmain.

Of course, not everything landed perfectly. The footwear, particularly the slouchy leather pumps, felt awkward and clunky rather than chic. And while the knitwear was undeniably luxurious, some pieces risked swallowing the models whole with their oversized cuts.

Still, Rousteing seems to be entering a new chapter—one where sensuality takes precedence over pure sex appeal. There’s something compelling about a designer pushing himself to evolve, even if the results aren’t flawless.