Balenciaga Fall 2025 PFW: The Sound of Repetition

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by brownfashionagal

This Balenciaga’s collection was exactly what you’d expect from Demna—and that’s the problem. It was a greatest-hits playlist of everything he’s done in the last decade, played on repeat, with little variation. The oversized suits? Check. The distorted proportions? Check. The ironic sportswear? Check. It was all there, in a black maze of a venue that felt like a metaphor for the endless loop Balenciaga seems to be stuck in.

I forced myself to sit through this show, not out of excitement but obligation. And while there were moments that hinted at a shift—narrowed silhouettes, sharper tailoring, a subdued staging—it wasn’t enough to make it feel fresh. The corporate suiting, intentionally wrinkled and moth-eaten, read more like a costume than an evolution of Balenciaga’s codes. The Puma collaboration, complete with gold medals and skinny tracksuits, felt like a weak attempt to inject something new into the mix, but instead, it just underscored how formulaic this all was.

Demna called this collection “Standard,” a study of basic wardrobe pieces reinterpreted through his lens. But if anything, it highlighted how much he’s boxed himself into his own aesthetic. The show notes talked about garments being subtly twisted into a “fashion context,” but at this point, does that even mean anything? The most striking pieces—sculpted coats, a corseted white shirt—were overshadowed by the rest.

At what point does “signature” stop feeling like a statement and start feeling like a lack of new ideas? You go for? Take someone like Yohji Yamamoto or Rick Owens. They’ve stuck to their core aesthetics for decades, but their work still feels alive because they refine, challenge, and expand their ideas.