Alexander McQueen Fall 2025 PFW: The Neo-Dandy Rises

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by brownfashionagal

Seán McGirr took Alexander McQueen into the world of the neo-dandy—a figure both rebellious and refined, inspired by the Victorian era but firmly planted in modernity. The collection was an exploration of identity and self-expression, drawing from historical references like Oscar Wilde and Charles Dickens while speaking to a contemporary audience. McGirr described dandyism as “the ultimate act of adornment,” a concept that played out across the runway in looks that celebrated both excess and restraint.

From the very first look, a peak-shouldered coat with lace framing the face, it was clear that McGirr was leaning into the house’s signature sharp tailoring. Suits took center stage early in the show, with high armholes and corseted silhouettes giving a nod to Victorian-era structure while maintaining a modern edge.

The true showstoppers, however, were the eveningwear pieces. Flowing silk dresses in deep jewel tones—reds, magentas, and lavenders—moved fluidly down the runway, each one featuring dramatic details like ruffles, sheer overlays, or built-in corsetry. A black lace maxi dress, sheer and adorned with intricate embroidery, felt like a direct tribute to the gothic sensibilities McQueen is known for. Meanwhile, a raspberry chiffon gown played up volume with sculptural sleeves, adding a romantic touch to an otherwise darkly elegant collection.

Philip Treacy’s sculptural hats gave a theatrical twist to certain looks, while gold bullion embroidery, seen on both cloaks and fitted bombers, added a layer of regal opulence. Crystal-encrusted face masks, created in collaboration with young designers from the Sarabande Foundation, gave an avant-garde feel to an already maximalist lineup.

One of the collection’s most striking elements was texture. Shearling was pieced together in short evening jackets, forming patterns that looked almost like angel wings as the models moved. Elsewhere, leather and wool cashmere were paired with delicate lace, creating a contrast between hard and soft. Even McQueen’s iconic skull motif made an appearance, appearing on scarves, blouses, and tights.