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The show opened with two models quietly folding paper birds at a stark white table. Birds have long been a motif in Browne’s work, and this season was no exception. Inspired by a 60 Minutes segment on birdwatching, his avian focus became a powerful metaphor for personal expression and artistic defiance.
The opening looks featured oversized, waterproof cashmere parkas cocooning models, paired with shrunken patch pocket jackets, mini wool flannel shorts, and four-bar v-neck cardigans. Thigh-high wader boots in light grey and white suede reinforced the collection’s ornithological theme, hinting at a readiness to weather any storm. Heritage tweeds, woven specifically for this collection, appeared in elongated coats and structured topcoats, adorned with classic patterns like herringbone, Glen plaid, houndstooth, and windowpane checks.
These birds, rendered in satin stitch and gold bullion embroidery, perched on pockets and glided across patchwork coats. Silk intarsia counterparts—a surrealist heron with exaggerated legs and a magpie clutching emerald-green Swarovski crystals—added whimsy to the collection. Movement was a key theme, with pleated skirts twisted on the form to create dynamic silhouettes and inverted box pleats revealing repp-stripe silk with every step.
Traditional menswear elements were reimagined, with suede elbow patches, contrast collars, and modular shirting featuring removable collars and cuffs reminiscent of Gilded Age tuxedo shirts. The beloved Hector bag returned with Swarovski crystals. Alek Wek closed the show in a gingham bustled ballgown draped with 40 meters of heritage tweed, topped with a sculptural gold bullion-embroidered jacket.
As the paper birds watched over one thing was clear: in Thom Browne’s world, freedom always takes center stage.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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