Prabal Gurung Fall 2025 NYFW: Armor for Uncertain Times

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by brownfashionagal

For a designer who has long mastered the art of balance between East and West, feminine and masculine, refined and rebellious, this season felt like an experiment that didn’t fully come together, the overall presentation felt somewhat scattered.

Gurung was inspired by the liminal space between a night out and the morning after—a moment of transition, both physically and emotionally. This translated into oversized men’s shirting worn in an undone, haphazard way, leather trousers with elongated silhouettes, and cocoon-like coats that enveloped the wearer in warmth. Knitwear also played a major role, with vibrant cardigans and Mongolian shearling coats adding texture and coziness to the mix.

The menswear elements brought a new dimension to Gurung’s usual aesthetic, but they didn’t always feel cohesive with his signature ultra-feminine pieces. Tuxedo-inspired minidresses, metallic plissé corset dresses, and bubble skirts attempted to provide balance, yet some felt gaudy rather than glamorous—an unexpected turn for Gurung, who typically executes eveningwear with elegance.

The best moments of the collection came in the form of outerwear. Whether it was a sharply structured blazer, a kimono-style coat, or a beautifully draped double-faced cashmere topper, these pieces exuded a sense of protection and comfort in uncertain times. They were the collection’s saving grace, embodying the idea of fashion as armor, a theme Gurung touched on in his show notes.