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Calvin Klein made a grand return to the runway for Fall 2025, ending a six-year hiatus with a highly anticipated show at New York Fashion Week. But the real buzz came from minimalism pro Veronica Leoni’s debut as the brand’s new creative director. With a resume that includes The Row, Jil Sander, and Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Leoni seemed like the perfect candidate to revive Calvin Klein’s minimalist aesthetic while bringing something fresh to the table. And for the most part, she delivered.
He focused on defining a new silhouette, blending structured outerwear with fluid, relaxed separates. Leoni’s inspiration came from classic American archetypes, particularly those rooted in the energy of New York City. She paid homage to the everyday characters of the metropolis—think taxi drivers in leather bombers, college students in shrunken jumpers, and corporate professionals shedding their suits for an evening in a striking red dress. The collection took these familiar touchstones and reworked them ensuring each piece felt relevant and wearable. Outerwear was a particular highlight, with double-faced wool coats, crisp trenches, and an organza “fur” coat that felt both luxurious and innovative.
The collection stayed true to Calvin Klein’s signature clean lines and understated elegance but added an emphasis on versatility and personal expression. According to the show notes, the collection was designed around the idea of “clothes for life, 24/7,” celebrating freedom, liberation, and a wardrobe that seamlessly transitions from day to night. This translated into pieces that felt both timeless and contemporary, balancing sharp tailoring with softer elements.
One of the most interesting aspects of the collection was its subtle yet intentional reintroduction of underwear as a motif. Layering was key, with relaxed knitted henleys and silky slip dresses evoking a sense of nostalgic 90s comfort.
Leoni’s approach was not about recreating the past but rather channeling the essence of Calvin Klein into a everyday lux wardrobe. While the collection had strong moments, it still has room to grow. When modern minimalism is already dominated by powerhouses like The Row and Jil Sander, Calvin Klein will need to push further to stand out. It captured the spirit of the brand while laying the groundwork for what’s to come.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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