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Unfolding in the grand halls of the New York Public Library, the show set an early, dramatic tone for New York Fashion Week.
The designer’s show notes referenced the idea of “courage,” positioning fashion as a tool for navigating and confronting the complexities of today’s world. Each look played with volume and proportion, blurring the line between fantasy and reality with a bit of surrealism. Nothing was quite what it seemed but everything demanded attention.
From the first look, it was clear that Jacobs was playing with volume in ways that felt both whimsical and purposeful. The opening trio of pastel, padded-shoulder sweaters was a fascinating mix of structure and softness, paired with high-waisted slacks that jutted out at the hips. The exaggerated puff ball dresses followed, their rounded forms resembling antique stuffed toys or oversized button mushrooms.
Pastel shoulder-padded sweaters opened the show, setting the tone for a collection that balanced structure with softness. The accessories were equally daring—elf-like boots and oversized bows added a playful yet surreal touch. Jacobs’s love for volume was evident in his coat-dresses, trapeze gowns, and sculptural skirts.
The collection felt like a love letter to fashion’s more theatrical side, pulling inspiration from avant-garde greats like Comme des Garçons and Vivienne Westwood plus maybe even a bit like Marie Antionette. But Jacobs’s take was uniquely his own. His recent obsession with paper-doll-like silhouettes was evident, as skirts flattened or inflated into unexpected shapes, and tailoring took on a cartoonish quality.
The footwear was just as bold, if not more so. Jacobs sent models down the runway in shoes that defied convention—some curled at the tips like exaggerated elf boots, while others featured dramatically extended pointed toes.
Beyond the clothing and accessories, the makeup added another layer of storytelling. Models sported circular red dots over their mouths or cheeks, a striking detail that invited speculation. Was it a nod to silent resistance? A playful take on pop art?
Jacobs has never been one to play it safe, It was an embrace of the weird, the exaggerated, and the dramatic, but underneath all of that was a call to take up space and be seen.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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