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Inspired by the human chess scene in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, the models moved like life-sized chess pieces across an illuminated chessboard. The collection unfolded in two acts. The show began with light, wearable pieces rooted in Edwardian romance. Sailor jackets, smartly tailored trousers, and knee-grazing shorts paired with frilly blouses and sheer dresses exuded femininity with a playful, schoolgirl-inspired twist. Nautical touches and striped patterns added charm, while obi belts brought a touch of Japanese elegance.
As the collection progressed, McQueen’s dramatic flair took center stage. Molded corsets, some adorned with horsehair, echoed his earlier Eshu collection but were softened with updated details. Intricate kimonos and garments featuring traditional Japanese motifs demonstrated his skill at merging cultural influences. Meanwhile, American football-inspired looks—complete with ornate helmets and shoulder pads—offered an unexpected yet striking contrast.
The use of texture and embellishment was impeccable. Floral embroidery, candy-striped puffball skirts, and chiffon dresses floated down the runway, while sculptural leather pieces showcased McQueen’s mastery of tailoring. Delicate lace dresses contrasted with bold, structured silhouettes, creating a collection that was equal parts romantic and powerful.
The chessboard setting enhanced the narrative, but the clothes were the true stars. Each piece demonstrated McQueen’s ability to make ideas feel relevant. The show reached its climax with the chess game itself, commanded by robotic voiceovers and culminating in a queenly face-off between Gemma Ward and Hana Soukupová. This stunning visual metaphor tied together McQueen’s exploration of power and identity.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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