Rick Owens Spring 2014: Warrior Women

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by brownfashionagal

Rick Owens has always been the quintessential American in Paris, blending his love for European elegance with his unique, edgy vision. His latest collection, however, took that fusion to new heights, inspired by the dynamic art of stepping—a rhythmic dance rooted in African-American college culture.

Instead of traditional models, Owens featured step dancers from various college sororities across the U.S. Owens collaborated with stepping teams from four sororities—Washington Divas, Soul Steppers, The Momentums, and The Zetas—to create a performance unlike anything Paris has seen. Forty women, embodying strength and determination, stormed the runway in outfits designed for movement. The choreography, infused with elements like Zulu dance, was a high-energy spectacle. Owens described the step dancing as a “brutalist” form of expression, emphasizing strength and confidence. The dancers, instead of smiling for the cameras, presented fierce expressions that commanded attention. This approach shifted the focus from merely showcasing clothes to celebrating the art of performance itself.

The clothes themselves were a revelation. Owens reimagined his signature draped designs with functionality at the forefront—hiked hems, slits, and zippers allowed for maximum mobility. It was a bold departure from his usual serene aesthetic, leaning into a raw, electric energy. The mix of elegance and roughness was palpable, giving rise to what Owens described as “our own beauty.”

The clothing drew inspiration from historical warrior attire, with flowing drapes and armor-like designs in shades of black, mushroom, and dark gray. The silhouettes were both striking and practical, featuring minimal sleeves to allow for movement during the dancers’ performances. Leather details were prevalent, adding a bold touch to the overall aesthetic.