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Thom Browne: Inspired by Edgar Allan Poe’s “The Raven,” is a breathtaking display of dark elegance and avant-garde design. The show, accompanied by an original recording by actor Carrie Coon, unfolds like a surreal winter dream.
Browne’s signature tailoring takes centre stage, with classic silhouettes reimagined in a monochromatic palette of black, white & gray. The collection is a fusion of fantasy and reality, with garments adorned with motifs of ravens and roses, paying homage to Poe’s iconic poem. Highlights include oversized tweed blazers, cocoon-like coats, and intricately embroidered outerwear. Each look exudes a sense of mystery and complexity, capturing the essence of Browne’s usual approach. Hair and makeup were equally dramatic – Netted veils, long black nails, and makeup reminiscent of the iconic Moira Rose.
The runway show, complete with towering snowmen and eerie veiled models, adds to the overall theatricality of the show. Thom Browne once again proves himself as a master storyteller, weaving together elements of literature, art and clothing.
Michael Kors: Inspired by his grandmother’s chic wedding photo from the 1930s, Kors celebrates enduring style with a mix of tailored silhouettes and laid-back luxury. This collection is all about juxtaposing sharp tailoring with lingerie dressing, giving a nod to both the 1930s and 1990s. Think blazers and trench coats paired with sensual dresses. Camel coats, tweed, and sequins dominate the runway, alongside tailored blazers and cozy knitwear. Cashmeres, tweeds, and furs are everywhere, and the color palette is warm and cozy with shades of cappuccino, chocolate, and black. Bias-cut satin dresses harken back to old Hollywood glamour, while sleek tailoring and indulgent cashmere showcase Kors’ commitment to quality and simplicity. Accessories like sleek pumps and structured handbags add the perfect touch; they play with proportions, from sleek pumps and stiletto boots to minimalist oxfords and the new chain-handle Manhattan bag, epitomizing simplicity. You’ll also find crisp whites and dusty makeup tints. The runway, set in the historic Barneys New York space, provided the perfect backdrop for Kors’ ode to enduring style.
Gabriela Hearst: Inspired by the visionary artist Leonora Carrington and the surrealist movement, Hearst weaves a tapestry of luxury and craftsmanship that speaks volumes. The collection showcased Hearst’s signature style – draped silhouettes, androgynous touches, and a focus on quality craftsmanship. From the structured bodices reminiscent of the Greek goddess Athena to the unconventional yet visually striking silhouettes, Hearst’s collection is a tribute to female leaders and warriors.
But it’s not just about aesthetics; Hearst’s commitment to sustainability shines through. By ethically sourcing materials like deadstock and recycled cotton, she crafts pieces that are not only beautiful but also environmentally conscious. The collection delights in juxtaposing unexpected materials, like organic twisted hand plissé in Nappa leather paired with tailored coats, or liquid silk velvet with raw edge chiffon detailing skimming the form in bias slip dresses. The collection wasn’t literal surrealism. Instead, it played with transforming familiar materials and silhouettes, inviting us to see clothes in a new light.
LaQuan Smith: This collection was all about power dressing for the modern woman (and man!). The show took place in the heart of New York’s Financial District, with models rocking strong pinstripe suits with a twist – think corsets and high slits for a night out after work.Smith’s inspiration, drawn from the vigor of ’80s Wall Street and Studio 54’s allure, was evident in every look.
The collection featured a mix of pinstripe suits with bodysuits,sheer blouses, glamorous dresses, and versatile separates that can be dressed up or down.
The vibe was definitely “boss lady” who’s ready to take on the world, from the office to the club. And guys weren’t left out – LaQuan Smith offered a range of menswear options too, from sharp suits to luxurious fur coats.
Coach: Stuart Vevers, Coach’s Creative Director, draws inspiration from the city’s romantic allure and spontaneous moments, translating them into beautifully distressed leather pieces and reimagined classics. From tuxedo jackets to breezy cotton maxi skirts, Classic silhouettes in leather, denim, and cotton get a refresh with a worn-in, pre-loved feel. Playful bows add a touch of whimsy throughout the collection, adorning dresses, skirts, and even adding a unique twist to formal wear.
The runway presentation at the historic James B. Duke House captures the essence of the collection, blending archival Coach elements with modern flair. The incorporation of street-casted models and personalized touches like custom embroidery adds to the intimate atmosphere.
Sustainability is a key player here, with Coach infusing the collection with its commitment to a circular life cycle. Repurposed and recycled materials breathe new life into old garments.Top it all off with NYC-themed charms on bags – think Empire State Building miniatures or pretzel keychains – and you’ve got a collection that’s a modern take on timeless style. It’s perfect for those who want to celebrate their individuality along with their love for the Big Apple.
Carolina Herrera: This year’s Carolina Herrera collection is all about strong women, with a focus on the working woman of the 80s and 90s. Think power suits with puff sleeves and wide shoulders, mixed with pops of color and bold prints.Designer Wes Gordon wanted the focus to be on craftsmanship and fit, with embellishments used sparingly for maximum impact. You’ll see intricate beading and embroidery on some pieces, but overall the collection is more about clean lines and strong tailoring. Gordon’s attention to detail was evident in every piece, from the sleek red turtleneck paired with dramatic black trousers to the elegant floral gowns and ruched satin numbers. From the sleek lines of the tailored ensembles to the whimsical charm of the floral gowns, each piece radiates the signature Herrera essence. It leaned towards repetitiveness, perhaps adhering too closely to the brand’s conservative identity. Gordon’s emphasis on precision and fit resulted in a refined yet somewhat predictable lineup, lacking the excitement of innovation.
Ludovic De Saint Sernin: Ludovic de Saint Sernin finally showed his clothes at New York Fashion Week! His collection was all about sexy outfits, inspired by the famous photographer Robert Mapplethorpe. The collection started off innocent and pure, with delicate floral patterns on sheer tops. But as the show went on, things got steamier with sultry leather outfits that celebrated Mapplethorpe’s exploration of sexuality and fantasy. Things got racier, with lots of sensual clothes, some barely there.Think slinky black dresses on men, paired with powerful cross-body harnesses. This wasn’t just about showing skin, though. It was about celebrating the spectrum of human desire, where confidence and sensuality aren’t dictated by what you wear, but by how you wear it. De Saint Sernin’s strength lies in his ability to craft garments that empower the wearer, regardless of gender identity.
Christian Siriano: Christian Siriano took us on a journey to a glamorous, post-apocalyptic desert world inspired by the “Dune” universe. Set against the backdrop of The Plaza, the collection was a striking blend of futuristic elegance and earthy charms. There are still plenty of dramatic silhouettes and romantic details, but with a twist. There were also some menswear looks, with jackets and belts that could be part of a cool space suit. And even though Siriano is known for his big ballgowns, this collection was more about short dresses and cocktails.Some looks feature bold cutouts and oversized silhouettes, others embrace delicate chiffon and intricate beading, adding depth and dimension to the ensembles.
It’s full-on Siriano with a healthy dose of gaudy thrown in with some old Hollywood glamour. While the usual Siriano flamboyance is there (those shiny fabrics were a bit much!), there are some truly stunning pieces, especially the dramatic coat gowns.I have to admit, I’m warming up to Siriano’s signature style. It’s definitely out there, but there’s a certain charm in seeing him balance those minimal pieces with the over-the-top drama.
Jason Wu: ‘Nocturne’ is a mesmerizing journey into the mysteries of the night. Against a backdrop of dim, warm lights, Wu presented a stunning array of garments that exuded an enchanting aura. Dark greens, browns, navy blues, and blacks dominated, punctuated by bursts of red and gold, echoing the richness of a dark forest. Wu expertly blended fabrics, incorporating sequins, knits, and tulle to evoke the textures of nature. Dramatic eyeshadows added a boldness to the silhouettes, while distressed fabrics and asymmetrical details enhanced the organic feel. Embroidered embellishments adorned many pieces, emphasizing the collection’s seductive aesthetic. Wu’s exploration of nature’s elegance showcases an evolution in his design sensibilities.The standout pieces were undoubtedly the blanket coats and cape, along with the outfits with layers of soft, draped fabrics adding to the intimate feel. The collection is imbued with a soft rawness. It was a lovely collection, arguably one of his best, showcasing a masterclass in soft dark romance.
Altuzarra: Celebrating 15 years in style, he revisits iconic pieces with his signature twist. Nope, no stadium-sized spectacle here. Instead, it felt like a cozy gathering of close pals in the designer’s own studio. From structured peacoats to playful pops of color, each ensemble exudes Altuzarra’s cool, quirky vibe while remaining effortlessly wearable. The collection is full of strong shapes with a touch of unexpected fun. Think peacoats, oversized trenches, and dramatic hats, all mixed with pops of bright color and playful details like clown ruffs and harlequin prints. From plush coats to delicate lace dresses; The clothes were all about tactile interest, with textures that begged to be touched. Layering added depth and dimension to the looks.
Altuzarra draws inspiration from diverse sources, blending equestrian motifs with nods to art and history. The result? A curated wardrobe reflecting individuality and timeless pieces. the collection is about looking effortlessly put-together, like the kind of unique style you see walking down the streets of New York City.
Ulla Johnson: Ulla Johnson’s signature romanticism was present in luxurious fabrics, playful prints, and unexpected details. This season, however, Johnson pushed boundaries by incorporating deconstructed menswear elements and featuring male models for the first time. The collection balanced comfort and style with slouchy silhouettes juxtaposed against figure-flattering pieces. A rich color palette of marigolds, purples, and deep greens added vibrancy, while textures like boiled wool and crochet provided warmth.
With a nod to philosopher Judith Butler’s exploration of gender, Johnson’s collection delves into the complexity of identity and expression. It’s a refreshing take; it’s the clothes themselves that steal the spotlight. From hand-crocheted paisley dresses to standout intarsia shearling outerwear, each piece tells a story of homely craftsmanship. It’s the kind of lineup that makes you feel cozy just by looking at it.
Khaite: Catherine Holstein, the mind behind Khaite, continues to impress with her ability to infuse minimalism with unexpected twists, creating a collection that exudes confidence and authority. The show does texture play well with a blend of fur, leather, and satin, with a daring inclusion of sheer fabrics and layering pieces. While maintaining its signature dark and neutral tones, the collection introduces pops of burgundy, pale blue, and white for contrast. Silhouettes range from oversized to cinched, with asymmetrical designs adding an avant-garde flair. Khaite’s chic and mysterious aesthetic blends well with the Mob Wife core that was going on.
The collection draws inspiration from the concept of the fallen drape, celebrating the beauty of rebuilding and the evolution of style across generations. Through meticulous tailoring and innovative design, Holstein seamlessly blends menswear-inspired pieces with feminine tailoring and luxurious couture touches, all retaining Khaite’s signature relaxed elegance.
Monse: Think corporate core meets extraterrestrial lore! Monse embraces the interstellar with a blend of familiar comfort and extraterrestrial intrigue. Laura Kim and Fernando García, the masterminds behind the label, infuse their signature style with a cosmic twist, leaving wearers pondering the mysteries of the universe. The collection stays true to the brand’s DNA with their signature deconstructed suiting. The brand stays true to its roots with deconstructed suiting and playful hemlines, but adds a twist with AI-generated floral prints featuring eyeballs. The collection boasts powerful suiting, reimagined with unexpected details while trippy prints add a surreal edge to familiar silhouettes. It’s a collection that’s equal parts cool, curious, and perfect for those who like their fashion with a dash of weird.
Anna Sui: Whodunnit? Well Anna Sui did it! She killed with this collection. Her showcase at The Strand bookstore was a journey through time and narrative, blending fashion with literature, music, and history. Set against the backdrop of rare books, Sui’s collection paid homage to iconic female characters like Miss Marple and Clarice Cliff, while also embracing elements of English countryside charm and 1960s London nightlife glamor.The runway featured a delightful fusion of vintage-inspired pieces, from tailored tweeds and suede jackets to bohemian floral prints and sparkling sequins. Recognizing the current vintage wave, Sui incorporated actual vintage pieces like nightgowns, handbags, and scarves, alongside recreated fabrics like corduroy and faux fur. Warm hues like curry, tobacco, and marmalade dominate the collection, these earthy tones are complemented by pops of vibrant oranges and yellows.
Lapointe: Lapointe is back and this collection is all about bold colors and standing out. The designer took inspiration from back-to-school season with a fun twist.The show even had models arrive in a school bus! Think colorful jumpsuits, fur coats, and dresses with fringe. There’s a little bit of everything for everyone, from sporty to glam. Dramatic silhouettes, impactful colors, and playful textures dominated the runway, offering a lineup that was anything but boring. While a unifying theme might have been absent, the lack of cohesion didn’t detract from the strength of the individual pieces. Lapointe delivered a line of strong standalone pieces. This collection isn’t about taking itself too seriously. It’s about having fun and looking hot.
Proenza Schouler: This season isn’t about starting anew but rather building upon past successes. Elements like sheer fabrics and artful layering make a return, embodying the brand’s signature style. Patience is key here, with some pieces taking up to a year to perfect. This means comfortable clothes you can wear for a long time, with some sheer fabrics and interesting layering for a modern touch. Think wool coats, leather jackets, scarves, boots, loafers, and handbags that are all designed to last.The overall aesthetic is a little predictable, the clothes feel more muted in comparison. Proenza Schouler is known for its ability to blend minimalism with gorgeous details, and past collections have achieved this beautifully.Accessories follow suit, offering a perfect balance of style and function.
Kim Shui: Inspired by dragons and Asian culture, the clothes are bold and colorful, with a mix of textures like leather, snakeskin, and fur. Shui’s inclusive designs cater to diverse body types, democratizing the dragon’s spirit. Her designs, inspired by the strength and dynamism of this symbol, blend Asian cultural motifs with global trends. But it was a bit much for some, the clothes come across as heavy and overdesigned. Some looks appeared overdone, bordering on tacky.
However, there’s no denying some standalone pieces were truly hot girl shit. They captured the essence of empowered femininity, commanding attention with their bold colors, daring silhouettes, and unapologetic attitude. Shui’s commitment to inclusivity and sustainable materials with vegan leather and fur alternatives is a major plus. This collection is perfect for those who love to make a statement and embrace bold choices. But if subtlety is your thing, you might want to look elsewhere.
Prabal Gurung: Titled ‘Fragmented Memories’ This collection is a journey through the complexities of grief and the beauty of memories. Inspired by his own loss, Gurung poured his heart into this collection, weaving together fragments of his past with threads of hope for the future.Gurung used his grief as inspiration, creating a collection full of textures and emotions. Each piece reflects a different facet of the human experience.
This perfectly captures the range of emotions explored. The bold colors represent strong feelings, while the flowy shapes hint at vulnerability and softer moments.This duality reflects the complexity of grief – the yearning for comfort and the need to express powerful feelings. While there may not be a single, cohesive visual style throughout the collection, it’s this very lack of uniformity that makes it so impactful. It mirrors the fragmented nature of memory and the jumble of emotions that arise during the grieving process. Gurung doesn’t shy away from the messiness of grief; instead, he embraces it.
Collina Strada: Designer Hillary Taymour’s vision challenges traditional notions of femininity, reclaiming strength as a defining characteristic. With weight-shaped squashes as props, models strut down the runway in a fusion of performance art and fashion, embodying Taymour’s message of empowerment. Crafted from deadstock textiles, the 36 looks feature vibrant graphics & enchanting colors.
From floral-patterned trousers to exaggerated muscle tops, each piece speaks to the strength and beauty of the female form; this message resonates throughout the collection, reminding us that femininity is multifaceted and powerful. Collina Strada says “Femme is a flex” and her collection is all about showing off feminine strength in all its glory. It stayed true to their quirky DNA but with a bit more wearability compared to past seasons. While still maintaining the brand’s unique aesthetic, there seems to be a broader appeal in this collection, which could attract a wider audience.
Helmut Lang: Peter Do took inspiration from city life and the things we need to feel comfortable.Do’s designs don’t just protect; they project confidence and resilience. From sleek suits to cozy knits, each piece is a statement of strength.
These were clothes that are both protective and cool. Bulletproof vests get a makeover in fancy silk bubble wrap, and hooded parkas keep you warm without messing up your hair. Cashmere sweaters have hidden zippers to reveal or hide bits of skin, kind of like a choose-your-own-adventure outfit. The energy is minimalist and sleek, with lots of black, white, and brown tones. Pops of orange add a bit of fun, inspired by firefighter uniforms.
Even though safety is a big theme, these clothes aren’t all about hiding. Do uses cutouts and sheer fabrics to show off some skin, creating a cool balance between protection and showing off your personality. But this collection isn’t just about looks; it’s about what they say about us. Do’s vision reminds us how to dress —it’s a reflection of who we are and how we navigate the world.
Christian Cowan: This Cowan collection showcased at The Harmonie Club in NYC, radiates sophistication while keeping the party vibes alive. Departing from his usual downtown flair, Cowan pays homage to the elegance of the Upper East Side. The opulent setting mirrors the collection’s upscale inspiration. Cowan blends uptown chic with his signature fun, crafting garments that speak to powerful women unafraid to wear what they truly want. Christian Cowan’s designs tend to be over the top, leaving you unsure how to react. Amidst the extravaganza, the simpler looks shine. The cocktail dresses with dangling stars are undeniably adorable.
Wiederhoeft: Titled “Secret Room,” this Wiederhoeft was a theatrical blend of classic silhouettes and modern whimsy. The show opened with a dramatic smoky runway and featured opulent pieces. Gorgeous textures like double-faced satin, silk chiffon, and hand-embroidered crystals mingle with moiré, tulle, chainmail, and sequins. The season showcased groundbreaking corset silhouettes, detailed bow-bondage dresses, and chic embroidered jackets. These texture combinations are stunning, but the sheer variety can make it feel like each look belongs in a different collection. The overall narrative struggles to find unity. The sublime craftsmanship throughout makes up for any lack of cohesion. Nevertheless, this is a collection for dreamers!
Luar: Luar was a spectacle from start to finish. Raul Lopez delivered a collection that not only captivated with its extravagant presentation but also delved deep into challenging societal norms and perceptions.
Titled “Deceptionista”, the collection reinterpreted metrosexuality, blending masculine and feminine elements. Inspired by a blend of historical influences, from the flamboyance of the Elizabethan era to the modern-day manifestations of sexuality. This approach was reflected in exaggerated silhouettes, bold textures, and intricate detailing; Think oversized shoulders juxtaposed with sheer fabrics and fur accents. From oversized jackets with contorted shoulders to sleek pants constructed with ostrich textures, each garment made a statement on its own.
Among the highlights of the show were the pieces from LUAR BASICS, a line of seasonless streetwear that effortlessly combined comfort and style. These everyday essentials provided a perfect balance to the more avant-garde designs, ensuring versatility and accessibility. These are clothes that blend sexiness with a sense of power.
Batsheva: Batsheva Hay’s inspiration? Herself. As she matures, her designs move beyond “domestic” to something more playful and powerful. The runway showcased diverse models over 40, rocking everything from hooded dresses to “HAG” sweaters. Initially shrouded in black, the collection swiftly transformed into a kaleidoscope of colors and textures.
Casting women over 40, including icons like Ringwald and Ione Skye, underscores the collection’s narrative of beauty across different life stages. The inclusive sizing reflects a commitment to diversity and empowerment. Batsheva’s creations exude wit, personality, and individuality.
However, the line between individuality and “frumpy” occasionally blurred. Some looks, while unique, teetered on the edge of appearing slightly out-of-date. Hay walks a tightrope between celebrating non-conformity and potentially alienating those seeking more universally flattering pieces. This is a collection designed by a woman, for women – a refreshing perspective we need more of.
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
Pictures courtesy of Showstudio
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