Milan Fall 2024: A Quick Overview

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by brownfashionagal

Diesel: Diesel livestreamed the preparation for 72 hours and had a giant Zoom call with 1,000 fans as part of the runway.The collection emphasized mature yet creative designs, incorporating denim, jersey, and unique textures. The collection featured burnt-out effects, multi-layered prints, faux fur, and denim elements. Accessories included printed bags, unique footwear, and distinctive jewelry. They also had fun with layers, fuzzy textures, and surprising patterns like leopard print mixed with flowers. Denim, of course, was a big part of the collection, with jeans treated to look like cracked leather.

This collection is all about showing everything, both in the design process and with the clothes themselves. While the fabric manipulation using layering and burning effects was impressive, there weren’t any clear must-have pieces that emerged this season. Martens’ collection for Diesel showcased a blend of influences, highlighting his skill in fabric manipulation, layering, and distressing techniques.

Fendi: This Fendi collection merges traditional craftsmanship with contemporary innovation, embodying contrasts and blending Roman heritage with a British twist. Kim Jones, the designer, got inspired by Fendi’s archives from the 1980s and how people dressed in London back then. It celebrates the active woman, offering luxury as comfort and confidence. The collection features a theatrical backdrop, a versatile color scheme, intricate fabrications, and nods to Fendi’s history. Knitted boleros, tailored silhouettes, dual persona knitwear, and elements of Renaissance art are highlighted.

The colors range from deep browns and to luxurious maroons and blacks, creating depth whereas the clean lines and mature shapes lend an air of sophistication. The collection featured leather, shearling and tailoring resulting in some utilitarian pieces. The collection is all about contrasts: practical yet fancy, simple yet dramatic, town and country vibes.There are also new bags and accessories, including a fun Chupa Chups lollipop holder.

Del Core: Titled ‘A Bug’s Life’ this collection drew inspiration from insects, showcasing sophisticated yet dramatic ensembles. The designs transitioned from elegant draped dresses to dramatic capes and coats, tailored suits, and sexier styles with wing-like shapes. The collection celebrated nature, featuring textures reminiscent of beehives and rugged beauty. Del Core’s designs reflected the transformative journey of insects, with each piece embodying protection and transformation. While some may border on being a bit over-the-top, I must admit, I have a soft spot for those extravagant moments.These standout garments add an exciting dimension to the collection making it more than another show with minimal luxe clothes.

Alberta Ferretti: Alberta Ferretti showcased chiffon gowns, tailored day looks, and a mix of feminine and masculine elements like tweed pantsuits. The designs emphasized individual interpretation and included embellishments like sequins and metallic accents. The collection explored textures, draping, and the interplay of light and dark, celebrating femininity and the balance between pragmatism and poetry. Ferretti’s focus on decoration and coziness, blending masculine and feminine elements, and creating a tapestry of textures highlighted her mastery in design. The collection transitioned to a more “masculine” aesthetic with a palette of grey, black, khaki, and gold, featuring boucle suiting, woolen ponchos, sequinned dresses, and seductive slip dresses. The dynamic suiting and outerwear, described as “heritage meets modernity,” showcased Ferretti’s ability to blend classic influences with her signature intrigue, offering key investment pieces for the future. But it’s not just about the individual pieces – it’s about how they come together. Each outfit is carefully curated, with pieces that effortlessly complement one another. And let’s talk about chic; This collection takes chic to the max and then some.

N21: Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s “Anarchic Glamour,” boldly challenges traditional sophistication, drawing from 1980s Italian couture. Rejecting nostalgia, Dell’Acqua subverts fashion norms with deconstructed suits and dresses, embracing a raw aesthetic. Tailored suits, cocktail dresses, and little black dresses are reimagined with raw edges and unconventional cuts, such as skirts with open panels and midriff-baring jackets. Models’ unpolished looks and intricate accessories further emphasize the collection’s theme. While it was not my favorite collection, it was bearable. The clothes were decent, but the theme felt somewhat forgettable. Through unexpected details, the line blurs the lines between chic and trashy.

Roberto Cavalli: This Roberto Cavalli collection by Fausto Puglisi, shifted to a softer aesthetic inspired by Italian marble. The collection featured Fortuny-esque pleats, velvet patterns, and marble-inspired designs, blending urban contemporary styles with Cavalli’s iconic codes. The emphasis on luxurious fabrics and craftsmanship signaled a new chapter for the brand, celebrating sophistication and materiality.

Gone are the wild prints, replaced by a focus on luxurious fabrics inspired by Italian marble. While Cavalli has always flirted with a sense of audacity, I found the previous collections’ tackiness to be playfully sexy. This time, the focus on elaborate marble prints overwhelmed, bordering on gaudy. Despite this, there were undeniably gorgeous pieces, and the individual looks might translate well outside the runway.

Etro: This Etro collection draws inspiration from Ulysses’ odyssey, blending historical fabric patterns with a modern twist. It explores texture, pattern, and movement mirroring Ulysses’ journey. The collection features innovative techniques, intricate prints and a dark color palette. Marco De Vincenzo’s bold approach adds a somber undertone, departing from Etro’s traditional over the top aesthetic. The collection plays with layered motifs, asymmetrical details, and oversized tailoring, reflecting a desire for genuine expression.

The juxtaposition of boldness and restraint is masterfully executed. From the intricate jacquards to the lush upholstery fabrics, every texture is meticulously crafted to perfection, inviting touch and admiration. The flowing silhouettes gracefully drape the body, creating an ethereal sense of movement. Despite the departure from the brand’s usual style, the collection stays true to Etro’s heritage.

Max Mara: Max Mara embraces their signature restraint, crafting a collection focused on the art of layering knits. The palette is a study in chic neutrals, with greys, camels, and blacks taking center stage. Sheer blouses peek out from under boiled wool coats, and collars playfully overlap on jumpsuits and shirts.. Inspired by French writer Colette, the collection whispers of self-expression, Knitwear stands out with cozy navy coats and sweaters. The collection showcases meticulous craftsmanship and detail, reflecting a sense of self-assurance. Griffiths’ reinterpretation of past inspirations underscores fashion’s cyclical nature, evolving with each revisit. Max Mara’s garments consistently embody a delectable essence of pure luxury – this time it was no different.

Prada: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons showcased this collection titled ‘Instinctive Romance’ drawing inspiration from history, aviation, and sailing. The collection featured leather trench coats, pastel shirting, sportswear accents, sleeveless knits, A-line skirts, leather jackets, and statement hats. Prada and Simons emphasized a blend of past and future to create a contemporary look that pays homage to historical fashion elements. The collection referenced wartime garments, 1950s and 1960s silhouettes, and varsity jackets.The runway showcased a range of garments with historical influences, such as Victorian and Edwardian styles, Twenties dresses, and mid-century tailoring, all mixed in spontaneous juxtapositions. Prada and Simons explored traditional femininity through vintage-inspired leather outerwear, vibrant knitwear, and chic shift dresses. Bows, ruffles, and frills adorned many pieces, adding a touch of girly flair. Prada paid special attention to silhouette and proportion, emphasizing vibrant colors and contrasting elements like delicate silk skirts with bulky wool overcoats. Well, it was cute.

Moschino: Adrian Appiolaza becomes Moschino’s new creative director after Davide Renne’s sudden death. Appiolaza’s debut collection pays homage to Franco Moschino’s legacy with ready-to-wear designs. The collection features iconic prints, playful motifs, and a mix of eccentricity and wearability. Appiolaza aims to honor Moschino’s heritage while infusing modern sensibility, departing from Jeremy Scott’s campy style. This show was signaling a new era for Moschino with gender-diverse runway shows. Great layering and styling enhance the collection; Appiolaza’s designs focus on real-life wearability with deconstructed suits and playful patterns. This collection, infused with messages of peace, fun and love, heralds a new era for Moschino.

GCDS: Giuliano Calza’s collection for GCDS, named “Toys for Adults,” blends nostalgia, sophistication, and pop culture. Inspired by childhood memories, the collection features playful yet refined ensembles, reimagining iconic toys as fashion statements.The collection evokes youthful fun and nostalgia, with references to horror movies, prom nights, and playful innocence.

Highlights include Hello Kitty buttons on a white suit and Chucky-inspired accessories, merging innocence with a darker allure. The color palette transitions from pure whites to sensual hues, with playful yet refined ensembles like plush babydoll dresses and oversized coats. The whimsical collection, featuring a surprise Hello Kitty collaboration, encapsulates GCDS’s youthful spirit while inviting adults to rediscover the joy of play along with attention to detail in each garment.

Tom Ford: Peter Hawkings debuted as creative director at Tom Ford last season, continuing Ford’s legacy with tailored suits, luxe outerwear, and textured fabrics. This collection showcased military influences, exquisite tailoring, and a refined approach to sensuality.

Showcasing luxurious fabrics like patent leather and crocodile skin, the collection features double-breasted jackets, coats, and velvet suits in deep neutrals, royal purple, and metallic hues. Standout pieces include military-inspired outerwear with gold buttons and three-piece suits tailored to perfection. Eveningwear sparkled with mesh dresses and bodysuits
Hawkings’ expertise in menswear translated into impeccable women’s suits, highlighting timeless elegance. The collection maintained Tom Ford’s glamour and precision while ushering in a new era of elegance and refinement. Hawkings’ second season collection for Tom Ford blends metropolitan swankiness with elegant yet edgy aesthetics,creating a rather strong statement. This collection is a new chapter for Tom Ford. It retains the brand’s luxury and glamour. The collection is punctuated by very 70s luxe vibes, featuring some nearly naked sequined gowns that were absolutely gorgeous and standout leather moments.

Blumarine: Walter Chiapponi debuts as Blumarine’s new creative director, maintaining the brand’s romantic and feminine essence with refined Y2K stylings in this collection. The collection features soft colors, textures, and silhouettes, alongside eclectic early-aughts staples. Chiapponi adds refinement through tailoring and elegant accessories while introducing menswear for a braoder appeal. His commitment to reinstating romance as the brand’s core is evident through signature motifs and diverse aesthetics.
However, the lineup was messy, with a lot going on—a bit of everything and anything. While it may take Chiapponi some time to find his core aesthetic and vision, the individual pieces are quite decent. Greatly looking forward to Chiapponi’s era and hopefully a romantic rebirth for Blumarine.

Sportmax: Set at the Triennale design museum, the crimson-lit runway evoked dark sensuality. Inspired by Nico’s album “Camera Obscura,” the collection subverted traditional femininity with corsetry, military outerwear, and white-collar uniforms. Corset belts accentuated slender silhouettes, while vinyl and glossy red leather added edginess. Album cover prints paid homage to icons like Debbie Harry and Grace Jones. The palette mixed black, grey, and navy with vibrant red and blue.

Sportmax takes the power dressing of the 80s and injects it with a healthy dose of sex appeal. It’s a perfect mix of corporate-coded clothing – think sharp tailoring and structured blazers – reimagined for a night out for a board meeting? Almost futuristic, very magnetic.

Gucci: Well i did like this collection. Sabato De Sarno showcased sharp tailoring, vibrant colors and powerful shapes. Intricate details elevate each piece, making a strong case for craftsmanship. The collection showcases a variety of outerwear, including structured coats in neutral tones, a bold yellow trench coat, and a long green military-inspired coat. Dresses range from casual to formal, featuring strapless black dresses, flowing dresses, sheer layered pieces, and patterned designs. Tailored pieces like blazers and high-neck jackets are paired with skirts or shorts. The collection incorporates a color palette mixing earthy tones with vibrant yellows and oranges. Accessories include small, brightly colored handbags and knee-high boots. From sequins to knits, stripes to florals and some scrumptious leather, this collection captures the luxe & fun Gucci energy

Marni: Francesco Risso wanted pure, raw ideas, so he ditched all inspiration and references. Francesco Risso, Marni’s creative mind, went back to basics, literally covering his studio in blank paper to birth something entirely fresh. Inspired by Virginia Woolf’s call to shed societal layers, Risso created a universe where only Marni existed.

The clothes echoed this raw energy—think oversized jackets, power-shouldered sweaters, and bold prints, all in shades of black, brown, and bold cheetah print. The collection feels primal, unfiltered, and utterly original, proving that sometimes, the most groundbreaking designs come from starting with a blank slate.

This collection was a study in contrasts, with massive, powerful yet structured silhouettes commanding attention on the runway. Texture played a pivotal role, with feathery finishes and gestural paint adding depth and dimension to each piece. Marni offered a feast for the senses. It was definitely a collection that pushed boundaries, and while it might not be for everyone (love it or hate it!), there’s no denying it was impactful.

Versace: Think prim but sexy, good girl with a wild streak. Everything is super sleek and well-made, with some wild animal prints thrown in for good measure. The main colors are black and red, which Versace says is all about showing both your powerful and sexy sides. Think prim dresses with powerful shoulders and sexy, one-legged gowns. It’s a mix of sheer tops and tailored pantsuits, all with bold gold buttons. The collection juxtaposes refined rebellion through deconstructed fabrics, innovative silhouettes, striking hues, and nods to ’80s Wall Street fashion, all while maintaining its trademark glamour.

Ermanno Scervino: Ermanno Scervino’s collection, titled “Fashion Atlas,” blends comfort and corsetry for a powerful and seductive look. Classic tailoring and menswear fabrics like pinstripes create structured blazers and hourglass silhouettes. Playful twists include a croc-leather miniskirt suit and cozy knitted shrugs. Beyond corsets, luxurious winter wear in earth tones and pastels caters to chic club goers. The interplay of strong lines and soft curves showcases Scervino’s dedication to both form and function.

Classic tailoring and menswear fabrics like pinstripes create structured blazers and hourglass silhouettes, punctuated by strong clothes, restrained colors, and powerful textures and fabrics. Beyond corsets, the collection boasts a varied range of daywear and eveningwear. One of my favorite looks was an olive croc-leather miniskirt suit.

Ferragamo: This time Maximilian Davis for Ferragamo draws inspiration from the liberated styles of the 1920s. The collection features raised hems, fluid fabrics, dropped waists, and casual tailoring, referencing the past while looking to the future. The garments highlight protection and secrecy, with blanket capes concealing underlayers and influences from fisherman’s uniforms. The collection balances masculine and feminine elements. Footwear evokes 1920s elegance, with reinterpreted classics from the Ferragamo archive. With their delicious blend of color and comfort, wrapped in the finest materials – these are clothes to die for. It’s a timeless homage to the past, beautifully reimagined for the present.

Jil Sander: Jil Sander embraced comfort and softness, departing from minimalism. The collection featured oversized silhouettes, rounded edges, rich textures, and gorgeous colors like red and sage green. The Meiers aimed to evoke a sense of comfort through versatile knitwear and reversible pieces. The show’s atmosphere was enhanced by live music and a blend of sophistication and coziness in the designs. The collection explored the balance between sensitivity and form, intimacy and presence, and concentration and humor. Jil Sander’s new vision under Lucie and Luke Meier focused on reductionism and contrast, showcasing tailored coats, padded dresses, and unique accessories. Rich textures and versatile pieces adorned the models, blurring the lines between couture and everyday wear. Each piece is meticulously crafted to cocoon the body in softness, offering a tactile experience. The garments do tantalize.

Missoni: Missoni focuses on stripes, offering a blend of structured and soft pieces in a palette of blue, red, green, and brown among many. The line features oversized sweaters, chunky knits, and fluffy outerwear, showcasing a departure from the brand’s usual sleek cuts. Creative Director Filippo Grazioli plays with proportions and textures, emphasizing the iconic Missoni stripe in various sizes and styles. The collection exudes a playful and whimsical vibe, with crystal fringing adding drama to the colorful and textured designs. Oversized sweaters and chunky knits envelop the models, creating dynamic silhouettes that play with proportions. While draped fabrics and structured coats showcase Missoni’s expertise in texture manipulation. From bold graphic lines to pyrotechnic hues, the color palette evolves, showcasing Grazioli’s unrestrained sense of fun and love for visual abundance.

Bottega Veneta: The Bottega Veneta show in Milan featured a collection by Matthieu Blazy that highlighted resilience through everyday silhouettes. The pieces showcased themes of rebirth, with motifs like desert flowers and transformative snakes. Blazy’s designs merge functionality with high fashion, emphasizing impeccable craftsmanship and innovative fabrications; featuring billowing coats, colorful textures, and statement pieces like fringed dresses and spiral sweaters.The collection included couture-inspired pieces, intricate drape and striking accessories like the iconic Sardine bag. The show also featured the signature Intrecciato leather technique across bags, shoes, and gloves. Blazy played with shapes, silhouettes, and graphic elements to create wearable luxury with artistic elements. These are clothes that make you feel invincible.

Giorgio Armani: Giorgio Armani’s ‘Winter Flowers’ celebrates timeless elegance and nature’s resilience. The collection blends masculine and feminine elements, featuring a symphony of textures and silhouettes. Armani’s designs symbolize the enduring strength of nature through delicate flower motifs, emphasizing understated elegance and sustainable luxury. The collection reflects a harmonious balance between human creativity and nature’s beauty, offering pieces that are contemporary yet timeless.

AVAVAV: This collection was a viral sensation, and for good reason. Avavav’s show addressed online trolling by incorporating a runway show where models were targeted with trash representing social media hate. While they aimed to confront and subvert online negativity, their own collection faced some of that criticism. It’s a testament to the power of their message that they inadvertently became part of the discourse they sought to address. While some may label it as gimmicky, it’s precisely this audacity that smaller designers need to stand out in a crowded industry. The criticism they faced for their approach seems unjust when compared to the leniency afforded to big heritage brands who employ similar tactics in a more polished manner.

Despite the chaotic theme, The collection itself struck a balance between wearability and edgy innovation, featuring tailored pieces alongside deconstructed designs. The show went on with an amusing approach, balancing love and dread in a collection that embraced rebellion and humor.