London Fall 2024: A Quick Overview

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by brownfashionagal

Bora Aksu: This collection is a fusion of his demi-couture flair and the whimsy of minimalism, all while paying homage to the remarkable life and artistry of American sculptor Eva Hesse. Inspired by Hesse’s mysterious sculptures and intricate personal story, Aksu delivers pieces that blend his ethereal and playful style with a darker, more introspective tone reflective of Hesse’s trauma-laden work. The collection becomes a canvas for exploring the role of art and design in processing past traumas, offering a deeply introspective journey into emotional growth and feminine strength. Granny-chic meets Victorian doll sensibility in a collection that celebrates beauty in its most intricate forms—a true ode to the power of creativity and resilience. The clothes are a stunning mix of his usual ultra-glamorous style with a bit of modern art thrown in.

Edward Crutchley: Crutchley takes on the Cowboys this season (among many). What sets Crutchley apart is his fearless commitment to artistic expression. His collection isn’t just about clothes—it’s a celebration of individuality and creativity. The historic venue, adorned with ancient gods, and the models gliding through it, transformed the presentation into immersive theater. With each look, he invites us to explore the intersection of history, culture, and imagination. It was a riot of textures and fabrics. Think silks next to leathers, maybe even some hand-crocheted latex thrown in for good measure.

But it’s not just about the fabrics—Crutchley’s dramatic, over-the-top silhouettes steal the show. Bold shoulders, exaggerated shapes, and unexpected proportions command attention and defy basics. The color palette, though impactful, relied on deep, rich tones. This grounding effect ensured the garments retained a sense of sophistication despite their avant-garde nature.

Huishan Zhang: This Huishan Zhang collection is inspired by the rivalry between actresses Anna Magnani and Ingrid Bergman and director Roberto Rossellini. The collection blends Italian sensuality and old Hollywood glamour with elements like satin slip dresses and tailored suits. It challenges traditional femininity with sheer, bejeweled dresses and demure styles, evoking cinematic opulence. Zhang’s departure from previous seasons’ ornate gowns prompts reflection on embracing inner confidence. While the collection embraces a more restrained aesthetic overall, some standout gowns steal the show for me.

Zhang also draws inspiration from some ’90s styles, celebrating individuality and self-expression. Daytime versatility is showcased with denim sets and tweed jackets, while eveningwear features tulle dresses with corset details in pastel hues. Cheongsam-inspired dresses pay homage to Zhang’s Chinese heritage, adding cultural richness to the collection.

Chet Lo: Chet Lo’s collection, titled “Terracotta,” drew inspiration from the ancient Terracotta Army. The spiky knits Lo is known for were present, but the collection also featured new directions like sleek silver looks and feather-light metallic knit lace ensembles. Lo also debuted a capsule collection with Charles & Keith, featuring spiky variations of classic shoes. His runway show was a spectacle, with traditional Japanese war drums setting the mood for the awakening of the terracotta soldiers.The clothes exudes sensuality and power, with cozy yet sexy minidresses stealing the spotlight. Browns transitioned to army greens, and metallic hues reminiscent of armor added a touch of shine; it was a color palette inspired by Gerhard Richter. The final look was a couture-worthy black dress with metallic accents reminiscent of dragon scales – my heart was won.

16Arlington: Marco Capaldo presented a glamorously dark collection inspired by “What makes a monster?”. Shimmering dresses, fuzzy knits, and evening gowns in black and sheers ruled the runway, showcasing the brand’s signature “It girl” style. Capaldo continues to build on the label’s identity he created with his late partner Kikka. Since its inception in 2017, the brand has blended today’s glam with relatable elegance, creating clothes that tell stories. This season, the brand proposes a new way to wear knitwear: draped over the shoulders like scarves. Titled “I’m Not Sorry, It’s Human Nature,” this collection made a bold statement, exploring the concept of monstrosity in fashion. Guided by artist Charlie Fox, the show at Barbican Centre’s The Curve gallery was a surreal experience. This collection oozes chic with a touch of the unexpected.

Roksanda: Roksanda Ilincic, known for architectural influence, vibrant designs in her collection featuring rich colors and textures; This collection is all about stunning designs with a conscience. Imagine jewel tones, unexpected pops of color, and luxurious fabrics like velvet and silk. The silhouettes are daring and interesting, with a focus on texture and detail. The silhouettes are dramatic yet structured, featuring towering silhouettes, perfect for making a statement. The collection is full of impactful vivid prints; from bold geometrics to abstract motifs. Inspired by Le Corbusier, the winter collection blends fabrics and colors symbolizing human connection with nature. It perfectly captured the essence of the Roksanda woman: confident, fearless and appreciative of individuality.

Molly Goddard: Molly Goddard focused on texture, silhouette, and experimental fittings. Inspired by vintage pieces and her own creative process, Goddard experimented with layers, combining textures and colors to create voluminous dreamy silhouettes.The 1960s also get a nod, with silhouettes reminiscent of iconic Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior evening gowns, but with a modern twist – looser fits and a focus on comfort.

The collection featured layered bright colors, tulle, and satin, with Western influences and vintage prints. The collection showcased oversized sweaters, poofy blouses, and billowing skirts for a fun and carefree energy. The collection celebrated craftsmanship, nostalgia, and the art of femininity, blending fantasy with reality. It was fun, genuine, and flirty, with colors that that practically pulsate off the runway with shapes that evoke curiosity

Erdem: This Erdem collection is a tribute to Maria Callas, the opera singer. The collection features draped dresses, floral prints, and embellished details inspired by Callas’s on-stage persona and off-stage life. The show was held at the British Museum, highlighting Callas’s Greek heritage.
Erdem Moralıoğlu always finds inspiration in the most powerful and interesting women from the past for his collections, and this season.Erdem wows with variety! Striking prints dance across rich fabrics in a symphony of colors and textures. This nostalgic homage to Maria Callas translates into gorgeous clothes, each piece a blend of historic reference and modern sensibilities.

David Koma: This David Koma collection is inspired by dance luminaries like Pina Bausch and Candela Capitán, featuring sleek black and white ensembles, elegant evening gowns, and structured tailoring with neoprene and plumes. The collection includes vibrant graphic designs, shearling elements, and glamorous embellishments like rock-size crystals. Satin slingbacks and boots add a whimsical touch. The garments are designed to reflect light and movement, embodying a symphony of elegance and kinetics. The lineup offers a tantalizing mix of casual and sexy silhouettes, all in a chic black and white ballet-inspired palette. The addition of numerous fur accents brings a touch of drama to each look. Effortless sophistication comes in the form of tailored pants, while dramatic long coats add a glamorous energy.

Simone Rocha: Simone Rocha, known for her dark aesthetic, showcased this collection at St. Bartholomew’s Church, inspired by Queen Victoria’s mourning attire. The collection featured corsetry, delicate fabrics, and whimsical details like Crocs collaboration. Rocha’s designs play with exaggerated shapes and corsetry for a sculptural look, emphasizing wearability. The hauntingly beautiful collection explores desire, mortality, and sensuality, with a central motif of corsetry symbolizing the interplay between adornment and restraint.Think lots of black dresses with sheer panels, faux fur details, and crystal embellishments. But don’t let the somber theme fool you—there’s still plenty of playfulness. Dresses resemble children’s nightgowns, complete with big bows and stuffed animals as accessories.

The show, titled “The Wake,” is the end of a three-show cycle reflecting themes of transformation and transition. Traditional fabrics are twisted to evoke a sense of disinterment, while models don Crocs and oxfords for some much needed whimsy. Rocha’s collection invites contemplation of desires and fears, embracing beauty amidst mortality.This collection is a mesmerizing exploration of desire, mortality, and sensuality. It’s a reminder that even in the darkest moments, there’s beauty to be found.

Richard Quinn: This collection by Richard Quinn features a continuation of designs from previous seasons, showcasing black-and-white eveningwear, colorful tea dresses, and a bridal capsule. Quinn’s craftsmanship is highlighted through intricate details and a commitment to sustainability. The collection includes a mix of traditional and modern elements, with a focus on event dressing and timeless elegance. Quinn’s departure from floral prints introduces monochrome sophistication and Victorian-inspired elegance, redefining bridal couture with understated yet intricate designs. Quinn’s commitment to craftsmanship shines through in every detail, from hand-cut embellishments to meticulously printed fabrics. Though departing from his colorful signature floral prints, Quinn’s monochrome sophistication and Victorian-inspired elegance captivate, showcasing his versatility and evolution as a designer. It’s a transition that feels both natural and refreshing, showcasing Quinn’s ability to adapt and innovate while staying true to genuinely beautiful pieces.

Emilia Wickstead: Wickstead ditches florals for garments inspired by gritty NYC street photography. Channeling the energy of 1960s and 70s New York, Wickstead’s collection blends cool girl with a touch of Italian-American flair. Rich browns, greys, and blacks mix with pops of color. Leather, tailoring, and checks rule the runway, with a touch of urban glam from faux fur. The collection draws on diverse influences, creating a timeless yet city-ready feel. Wickstead fuses British tailoring with a nostalgic NYC edge: minis, suiting, and outerwear in warm tones with electric accents.While the collection was fun and full of strong pieces, I did miss those soft, luxurious gowns.

JW Anderson: Jonathan Anderson showcased quite an expectedly whimsical collection featuring athletic-inspired looks, bulky knits, and oversized outerwear. The show embraced a “grandmacore” aesthetic;It was inspired by everyday people and a touch of grandma chic, with some pieces like fuzzy dresses and ruffled sweaters looking straight out of a costume party. The collection explored innovative knit techniques, oversized coats, and practical yet unconventional garments.Comically large sweaters, chunky polo dresses, and quirky khaki sets steal the spotlight, offering a fresh take. Anderson, known for his eye-catching designs, delivers once again with dramatic textures and avant-garde silhouettes. Anderson’s designs reflect a blend of nostalgia and future thinking, with a focus on personal style and individuality. JW Anderson’s collection highlighted a balance between fantasy and realistism in a landscape dominated by trends and cores.

Conner Ives: Conner Ives presented this collection at London’s Savoy’s Lancaster Ballroom, inspired by Truman Capote’s Swans, sustainability, and real women. The collection featured subversive yet glamorous looks with craftsmanship and boldness, using upcycled materials. Models showcased diversity and inclusion. Ives’ focus on sustainability was evident in pieces made from upcycled materials, highlighting beauty in the discarded.

It channeled the glamorous style of old Hollywood but with a modern energy. Think little black dresses, reworked denim, and stunning gowns made from recycled materials. These clothes carried with them a deep sense of femininity and softness, with shapes and cuts that evoked conversation, crafted with rich textures. While the lineup could have been more cohesive, the rawness added an unexpected charm to it.

Dilara Findikoglu: Dilara Findikoglu’s show was all about smashing the patriarchy and celebrating feminine power. The clothes were wild – think latex, bondage, and football jerseys reworked into skirts. But it wasn’t just about the clothes, the whole show was a performance. The venue was a church, and the models walked down the aisle in slow motion with creepy distorted movements.
Themes include “FEMALE TERRITORY” calling for societal reconceptualization, “CORPORATE SENSITIVITY” promoting empathy in business, and “FEMME VORTEX” envisioning a world free from patriarchal constraints. The collection blends elements of sensuality and rebellion, with pieces like slitted skirts pinned with paper clips and corseted lingerie paired with leather accessories. Findikoglu’s creativity shines through, with thigh-high boots transformed into tops and cone-shaped breasts implanted into scarves and jerseys. The impact was undeniable.
The clothes were a slew of rich colors and scrumptious textures – it was refreshing to see beautiful clothes that actually had thought and meaning behind them. Each garment felt like a work of art, meticulously crafted and imbued with a sense of purpose.

Yuhan Wang: Yuhan Wang’s collection, titled “The Trials,” pays tribute to influential female figures in the legal field like Ruth Bader Ginsburg and Sandra Day O’Connor. The collection features courtroom-inspired dramatic shapes and tailored pieces alongside hyper-feminine motifs like roses and horse sculptures. Wang’s designs blend power and tradition with her signature feminine aesthetic, including whimsical cloaks, oversized collars, lace dresses, tweed numbers, and eco-leather cloaks. The collection celebrates women who have pushed for justice and empowerment. The collection was a mix of dramatic shapes inspired by courtroom attire and smart tailored pieces, with a sprinkle of her signature hyperfeminine style. And those adorable rose and horse motifs? Too cute! This collection easily ranks among my top favorites this season. It was a delightful blend of fun, sexiness, and sophistication. The clever styling and attention to detail were evident throughout, making each piece a delectable treat.

KNWLS: KNWLS did a 180 for their Fall collection, ditching western vibes for a more corporate look(as corporate as we can expect KNWLS to be). Think big shoulders, leather, and short skirts. They even threw in some corsets for a punk touch. KNWLS managed to keep the collection approachable. They balanced the strong silhouettes with softer materials like jersey, making pieces versatile enough for both the office and a night out. The color palette wasn’t all business either. The designers included unexpected pops of acid yellow and vibrant green alongside classic neutrals like camel and brown, adding a playful twist

There’s a subtle softness to the pieces, inviting conversation with their intricate details and playful styling. They’ve seamlessly blended the sexy early 2000s aesthetic with a more refined, formal look. Think of it as the cool older sister of that Y2K look – she’s still fun and flirty, but she also knows how to look hot af.

Di Petsa: This Di Petsa collection is all about love, both from others and for yourself. It starts with the pure, unconditional love of infancy and explores how that changes as we grow up. Imagine a broken Venus statue being put back together, that’s the theme here. The collection moves seamlessly through phases, from purity to seduction, with each piece telling a story of self-love and healing.
There’s lots of beautiful drapery, some revealing, some held together by strings. It’s about showing and hiding parts of yourself. Flowing dresses and shimmering fabrics create a sense of movement and rebirth.
Sparkling crystals and healing stones are used throughout, like tiny pieces of the broken Venus being put back in place. The raw, natural makeup and wavy hair add to the feeling of healing and transformation. It felt slightly messy, with the different themes and elements not quite coming together cohesively. There’s a sense that Petsa might be trying to expand her brand’s aesthetic and product range. This attempt felt more like a lack of confidence in the designer’s own vision rather than a deliberate diversification.