Saint Laurent Spring 2025 | PFW

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by brownfashionagal

The African and Moroccan influences come through most clearly in the collection’s color palette and accessories. Deep earth tones like sand and olive are punctuated by striking reds, yellows, and blues, creating a rich contrast between neutral and bold. This dynamic range of hues mirrors the intensity of Moroccan landscapes and crafts. Gold jewelry, particularly oversized necklaces and cuffs, evokes the grandeur and luxury of African art, elevating even the most minimalist pieces with a regal finish.

Vaccarello’s mastery of structure and tailoring is central to the collection, as seen in sharp, oversized blazers and fluid, floor-length coats that dominate the runway. This juxtaposition of precise tailoring and loose, flowing silhouettes speaks to a theme of balance—between control and ease, between masculine and feminine energy. The suits, in particular, stand out for their powerful, androgynous shapes, embodying the spirit of the confident, liberated woman. The oversized, boxy blazer—a hallmark of Saint Laurent—reappears in full force, this time paired with wide-legged trousers or styled over light, sheer dresses.

The eveningwear pieces further amplify this duality. Metallic lace details, shiny fabrics, and floral prints bring an air of Parisian nightlife, with a playful nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s bohemian past. Ruffled skirts and tiered dresses, some paired with fringed shawls, inject a sense of movement and freedom, contrasting the structured tailoring of the daywear.

The same silhouettes and looks are rehashed throughout, leaving little room for excitement or creative exploration. The result is a line-up that, while impeccably tailored, feels one-dimensional.

While the clothes were objectively pretty good, the collection struggles with identity—caught between a desire to honor Saint Laurent’s heritage and a half-hearted attempt at doing something new. The overall effect is one that feels like stagnation, leaving the collection feeling forgettable. Yves Saint Laurent thrived on pushing boundaries, but this collection feels trapped in a safe bubble.