Loewe Spring 2025 | PFW – Ayerhs Magazine

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by brownfashionagal

The show’s setting—a minimalist white room centered around a small bird sculpture by Tracey Emin—symbolized Anderson’s theme of “radical reduction.” Yet, this reduction wasn’t a lack of creativity but a focus on refining silhouettes and textures to their purest forms.

Anderson played with proportions and historical references, reinventing classic silhouettes in unexpected ways. One standout was the crinoline dress, traditionally known for its rigidity, which he transformed into a light, floating form. The fabric, delicate organza and silk, billowed around wire frames, creating a sense of movement as models walked. These dresses, with their sheer layers and floral prints, felt almost weightless, defying the bulkiness often associated with such designs.

Anderson’s tailoring was another highlight. Slouchy suits with single-button jackets and gathered-waist pants balanced elegance with ease. The silhouettes were relaxed yet precise, offering a modern take on traditional tailoring. Leather, a Loewe signature, was crafted into sleek coats with flared hems and cropped capes that seemed to be caught mid-swing, adding an architectural quality to the garments.

The collection also embraced playful, surreal elements. Tourist T-shirts, reimagined with feathers and printed with portraits of classical composers like Chopin and Mozart, added a whimsical twist. These, along with sequined mini-dresses and iridescent shells, fused art and fashion in a tactile, visual way.

Accessories were equally inventive. Alongside fresh iterations of the popular Puzzle bag, Anderson introduced the Madrid, a trapezoidal bag that added a new geometric shape to Loewe’s accessory repertoire. Paired with oxfords, boat shoes, and Ballet Runner sneakers, the collection had a grounded practicality amidst its avant-garde designs.

The show’s centerpiece was a single sculpture by Tracey Emin, a small bird perched atop a thin rail post. The bird, as the press release observed, “encourages us to imagine imminent flight, and ultimately its freedom.” This could be seen as a metaphor for Anderson’s own journey as he prepares to embark on new adventures.