Simone Rocha Spring 2025 | LFW

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by brownfashionagal

Simone Rocha presented a compelling exploration of contrasts, playing with silhouettes, textures, and inspirations in a nuanced way. Drawing from the carnation flower, the collection featured floral motifs in unconventional placements, from crystal-adorned jackets to sheer dresses, socks, and accessories. Rocha reinterpreted her signature flower designs, integrating them into structured garments, adding depth and visual intrigue.

Balletcore elements, influenced by choreographers like Pina Bausch, appeared throughout the collection. Tulle tutus, layered fabrics, and flowing gowns were paired with oversized coats and avant-garde outerwear, creating a balance between the ethereal and the edgy. Menswear saw technical silhouettes in luxurious fabrics like duchesse silk, embellished with floral and crystal details, adding a masculine-feminine juxtaposition to the runway.

Rocha’s attention to detail extended to accessories, including floral mesh bags, ballet flats with rhinestones, and even embellished Crocs, blending whimsy with sophistication. The show took place at London’s Central Criminal Court, enhancing the collection’s gothic, theatrical mood.

While the collection’s focus on ballet and the carnation flower is clear, it also delves into deeper themes of duality and contradiction. The juxtaposition of light and dark, innocence and experience, and the public and private self are all explored in the design choices.