All About Couture Spring 2024

We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.

by brownfashionagal

Fendi: This collection is a beautiful exploration of ‘human futurism’ blurring the lines between past and present. Kim Jones masterfully blends structure and decoration, showcasing the exceptional craftsmanship of the Fendi ateliers.

The collection is a study in contrasts. Flowing, ethereal fabrics like silk gazar are precisely cut into defined silhouettes, emphasizing the wearer’s form. Luxe textures like supple crocodile leather ground the collection, adding a primal, practical element. The colour palette starts dark and moody, culminating in shimmering silver gowns.

Jones celebrates practicality alongside extravagance. Bespoke Baguette bags, crafted from crocodile or adorned with fringe, are both luxurious and functional. The collection even features a micro Baguette perfect for a whimsical touch.

Maison Margiela: From the moment the first model stepped onto the runway, it was evident that this was no ordinary fashion show. The show was a theatrical experience, with models embodying intriguing night walkers reminiscent of Brassaï’s photographs of Paris’s underbelly. The clothing, with its twisted tailoring, masterful deconstruction, and play on proportions, fused the romantic with the macabre, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. Disturbingly poetic and surreal.

One of the most striking aspects of the collection was Galliano’s use of fabric and construction techniques. He introduced several new couture dressmaking techniques, including “retrograding,” which uses variations of thread-work, appliqué, or encrustation to mimic the degeneration of detail that results when an image is recreated. Another technique, “emotional cutting,” infuses the garment with the unconscious gestures that influence our expressions, according to Galliano. It’s art in motion, really.

But perhaps what truly set this collection apart was Galliano’s ability to merge old-school couture techniques with high-tech innovations. Fabrics were treated and manipulated to mimic the effects of water, rain, and decay, creating a sense of ethereal beauty that was both haunting and mesmerizing. The painstaking craftsmanship that went into creating these garments was evident, with each piece meticulously constructed to achieve the desired effect.

And can we talk about the makeup? Galliano’s collaboration with make-up artist Pat McGrath further enhanced the show’s artistic vision. McGrath created a retro-futuristic, doll-inspired make-up look that complemented Galliano’s designs perfectly, adding to the overall surreal atmosphere of the show.

The collection wasn’t just a nostalgic throwback. Galliano masterfully blended Margiela’s signature deconstruction with his love for dramatic tailoring and historical references. We saw hints of Galliano’s golden years at Dior, with nipped-waist silhouettes and elaborate Edwardian hats. The iconic Tabi shoe was even reimagined in collaboration with Christian Louboutin, showcasing a fusion of Maison Margiela’s avant-garde and Louboutin’s signature style.

Today when we are dominated by social media spectacle, Galliano’s triumph is a testament to the enduring power of exceptional design. The clothes themselves, not fleeting internet trends, were the stars of the show. This wasn’t just fashion; it was an immersive experience, a celebration of pure creative expression.

Gaurav Gupta: This Gaurav Gupta Collection, titled ‘Aarohanam’ is a fascinating journey of transformation. Inspired by the Sanskrit word meaning ascension, the collection beautifully captures the essence of moving from the vile to the subtle, from darkness to light.

Gupta masterfully balances structure and fluidity. The colour palette reflects this progression, with black symbolizing nothingness and orange mirroring the rising flame of enlightenment. Cropped jackets and sculpted metal bodices contrast with flowing trench coats, all echoing the flickering movement of a flame. The collection is a visual feast, a testament to Gupta’s signature sculpting techniques. Cropped jackets, exaggerated capes, fluid trench coats, and surrealistic metal plating. The collection is further enriched with intricate embellishments such as Mukaish, Badla, and Zari work, as well as three-dimensional embroidery and crystal embellishments

‘Aarohanam’ is more than couture; it’s an artistic exploration of human transformation. These pieces embody Gupta’s ability to transform fabric into expressions of the soul’s journey.

Rahul Mishra: Titled ‘Superheroes’, the collection’s true heroes weren’t comic book characters, but the very real insects and reptiles we share our world with. Intricate embroidery brought these creatures to life on dresses, jackets, and even denim. From a show-stopping moth dress to a black lizard gown with a flowing cape, each piece showcased Mishra’s remarkable eye for detail and craftsmanship.

While a long-time fan of Rahul Mishra, I found this collection to be a departure from his usual overwhelming opulence. This isn’t to say it wasn’t stunning or meaningful, but rather that it struck a different, quieter tone.

Ananya Panday walked the runway, her outfit, featuring a large embroidered firefly was a standout piece that highlighted the collection’s theme of celebrating the unsung heroes of the ecosystem. Beyond aesthetics, “Superheroes” carries a powerful message. The dwindling insect population due to human actions is a pressing environmental concern. By celebrating these creatures’ beauty, Mishra challenges our fear and encourages a more respectful coexistence.

The collection is a stunning portrayal of nature’s beauty and a powerful message on the importance of conservation. It serves as a reminder that even the smallest creatures play a vital role in maintaining the delicate balance of our ecosystem.

Christian Dior: This collection was 59 looks, meaning. We were disappointed with almost 59 looks. Chiuri’s reinterpretation of the La Cigale dress, originally designed by Christian Dior in 1952, sets the tone for the collection. The use of moiré fabric, in shades of gold, burgundy, blue, and red, adds a regal touch to the pieces. Architectural elegance is evident in coats with imposing collars, wide skirts with exaggerated cut-outs, and overlapping layers. Despite some disappointments, the collection shines through its exquisite needlework and perfectly pleated skirts.

The collection cleverly elevates everyday wear. Chiuri transforms the mundane – khaki separates, the grey wool suit, the black dress – into couture with expert flourishes. Playful elements like polka dots and feather details add a touch of whimsy, particularly in Victorian-inspired gowns and a cherub-wing-like feathered top. The collection is a testament to the atelier’s savoir-faire, evident in both the elaborate moiré creations and the seemingly simple, perfectly tailored trench coats.

Chanel: The show channelled the world of ballet, with nods to both the Ballets Russes and Coco Chanel’s history of designing for dance. Ethereal fabrics like tulle and lace flowed alongside structured jackets and jumpsuits, all accented with the collection’s signature motif: the button. Buttons adorned dresses, pockets, and even coats, a playful reminder of the beauty found in details. The humble button, an object both utilitarian and ornamental, brought into the world of ballet and dance.

Buttons appeared on sheer dresses, pockets, and colourful coats, emphasizing their role not just as functional closures but also as decorative elements that add charm and character to each piece.

The collection included long dresses, short straight skirts, jumpsuits, tulle, pleats, lace, flowers, and bows, all infused with references to contemporary culture. The use of white tights on every model added a Victorian feel, further emphasized by black T-strap pumps.

While some looks leaned towards a more traditional femininity, others embraced a quirky charm. The opening, featuring Margaret Qualley in a mini skirt and white neck ruff, perfectly captured the show’s spirit: an ode to dressing up for pure joy.

Every detail, from the ethereal skin to the barely-there makeup, contributed to the overall theme of grace and precision in movement. While the collection offered plenty of pretty dresses, it lacked the edge or individuality that appealed to a wider audience. While the collection undeniably exuded a certain feminine charm, it walked the line between delicate and dull. It aimed for a seductive allure, perhaps catering to the female gaze, but ended up appearing bland.

Giambattista Valli: Giambattista Valli’s runway bloomed with a romantic vision, inspired by nature’s endless cycle. Lush Trianon roses adorned the backstage, hinting at the floral motifs that would cascade down the runway.

The clothes offered a delightful escape from reality. Voluminous gowns in rich colours and delicate silks swayed like blossoms, some featuring dramatic high-low hems & oversized bows. Skin-baring bodices and ultra-low necklines balanced the extravagant skirts, creating a silhouette both alluring and powerful.

The opening ensemble sets the tone: a cheeky black bodysuit adorned with oversized white roses at the décolletage, highlighting bare skin with sophistication. Mini dresses featuring voluminous trains follow, suggesting a possible return of the high-low trend. Throughout the collection, bows are a recurring motif, shaping the hips and shoulders of asymmetrical gowns. Bare shoulders and ultra-low necklines add sensuality, while puffed skirts balance the revealing tops.

Schiaparelli: A tech baby and a motherboard dress! What else do we need from Couture? Schiaparelli is the only big fashion house doing it for me. They bring the heat, they bring the drama. Maggie Maurer carried an AI-inspired bedazzled baby made of tech hardware elements while Hannah Soukapouva walked wearing a dress made entirely of motherboard and microchips. For the construction – otherworldly proportions met immaculate tailoring. Inspired by the stars and the founder’s uncle, Giovanni Schiaparelli, who discovered channels on Mars in 1877. Roseberry doesn’t shy away from his Texan heritage. Bandanas reimagined in paillettes, thigh-high boots, and horse braid details add a touch of the Wild West.

This celestial influence translates into dresses adorned with circuit boards and microchips, a playful nod to both space exploration and the planned obsolescence of modern technology. The collection is a feast for the eyes. The collection blends traditional couture techniques like guipure lace and hand-cut fringe with futuristic elements like motherboard dresses and repurposed tech hardware. This juxtaposition beautifully embodies the collection’s core theme of contradictions.

This collection also exudes a subtle yet unmistakable influence reminiscent of the late Alexander McQueen’s softer, more ethereal designs. This influence is particularly evident in the collection’s construction, which balances otherworldly proportions with pristine tailoring, much like McQueen’s ability to blend fantasy with precision.

Roseberry’s reverence for Elsa Schiaparelli shines through in his use of her signature motifs – keyholes, anatomical shapes, and astrological references. He doesn’t merely copy; he reinterprets these elements for a modern audience, ensuring the brand’s legacy continues to evolve.

Daniel Roseberry has once again proven himself to be a visionary designer, pushing the boundaries of fashion and redefining what couture can be.

Robert Wun: Robert Wun never fails to deliver. Inspired by Wun’s love for horror films, the collection showcased a moody surrealist aesthetic, reflecting his fascination with the genre’s poetic nature. The collection celebrated the brand’s 10th anniversary, The collection served as a retrospective, showcasing confident reinterpretations of familiar silhouettes.

The opening looks in charcoal wool, embroidered with crystal raindrops, set the tone for the show. Wun’s mastery of draping was evident in pieces like a one-shoulder rosy beige silk number and an electric blue gown with dramatic ruffles. Face coverings added a dehumanizing element to several looks, adding to the collection’s eerie yet captivating allure.

One of the most striking pieces was a gown in ash-coloured tulle paired with a wide-brimmed felt hat adorned with burn holes, evoking a sense of engulfing flames. Another standout was a coat covered in jagged glass shards, paying homage to Trinity from “The Matrix” and symbolizing sacrifice for love.

Wun’s signature glass raindrops made a reappearance, subtly peppering many creations along with pearls. Beading took centre stage in a showstopper featuring long black sleeves, a transparent skirt, and tiers of green beading. Surrealistic head ornaments and beaded headpieces added a touch of whimsy and humour to the collection, balancing the dark themes with light-heartedness.

The collection wasn’t just visually vivid, it was deeply personal. Bridal gowns evoked love and loss through blood-stain crystal embellishments, while a coat adorned with glass shards paid homage to sacrifice.

Wun’s finale was a showstopper: a blood-red gown seemingly unfastened by a human-shaped appendage,

The show’s finale was a clever play, featuring a blood-red gown seemingly unfastening with a human-shaped appendage; a final nod to the beauty found in the unsettling. Wun invites us to embrace the eerie beauty of his world, where horror and beauty intertwine.

Valentino: Titled “Le Salon,” the collection aimed to be both modern yet Couture. Piccioli’s exploration of shapes, volumes, and silhouettes was evident throughout the collection, which featured a range of couture objects that reimagined traditional garments with innovative pairings and unexpected details. From bouillonée minidresses in silk faille to oversized blazers in techno gabardine, each piece showcased the designer’s bold and imaginative approach to couture.

Despite the avant-garde experimentation, Piccioli stayed true to the essence of couture, viewing it as a privileged space of authorship where perfection and experimentation coexist. The collection paid tribute to the handwork of the artisans at the Valentino atelier, highlighting the meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail that defines Haute Couture.

The clothing itself was a mix of everything. Blazers and hoodies were reimagined as couture marvels, juxtaposed with classic gowns and feminine silhouettes. Bold colour pairings like crimson and aquamarine or chartreuse and lavender added to the visual chaos. Despite the apparent lack of direction, meticulous attention to detail remained. From the gravity-defying gold jewellery to the meticulously crafted illusionary “skins,” the collection showcased exceptional craftsmanship.

While some might find the collection confusing, it can be seen as a metaphor for our varied complex world. Piccioli masterfully uses contrasts – colour, texture, form – to create a stunning and polarizing presentation.

Zuhair Murad: I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Zuhair Murad undisputed king of sparkle, shine and everything pretty. The focus on femininity remains a constant, his garments when touched by light evoke a magical quality that sets them apart.

This collection is an ode to the Phoenicians, a seafaring civilization known for their love of the sea. It’s a dazzling fusion of ancient and modern, with flowing fabrics and intricate details reminiscent of water and ships. Think cascading chains, Greco-Roman pendants, and shimmering metallics.

Powerful goddesses like Astarte and Tanit inspire the collection’s sensuality. The cuts are fluid and free-flowing, echoing the movement of waves. The colour palette reflects the Mediterranean, with faded reds reminiscent of twilight and deep greens symbolizing the wealth of the Phoenician lands. Hints of silver, bronze, and copper pay homage to their renowned craftsmanship. Forget the fairytale, goddesses reign in Murad’s world.

Viktor & Rolf: This collection is a masterfully executed exploration of opposites. Entitled ‘Scissorhands’ the show featured 28 black outfits, each a story in four parts.

The collection’s all-black palette, devoid of colour, allows the focus to remain on silhouette and texture. Fabrics like velvet, sequins and satin are used to create fluid and compact forms, accentuating the detailed cuttings that form decorative patterns of slashes and holes. This technique invites glimpses of the body in unexpected ways, adding an element of surprise and intrigue to each ensemble.

The key to Scissorhands lies in the controlled nature of the deconstruction. Each slash and hole is meticulously crafted, creating a fascinating tension between the raw, experimental aesthetic and the underlying polish. This approach challenges our perception of “finished” in fashion, blurring the line between creation and destruction.

This collection is a combination of polish and rawness, structure and spontaneity. Viktor & Rolf consistently push the boundaries of fashion with their innovative and thought-provoking collections. Their ability to blend humour, creativity, and craftsmanship sets them apart.

Elie Saab: Imagine: wispy chiffon gowns like desert clouds, accented with crystals that shimmered like sunlight. Gilded coats, meticulously crafted with metallic knits, evoked Marrakech’s rich architecture. Playful elements like kimono-inspired drapes added a touch of whimsy.

Titled ‘A Desert Rose’ and inspired by the vibrant city of Marrakech, Morocco, the collection invites everyone to experience the Marrakech market enchantment in sartorial forms.

Saab’s signature opulence was on full display. Intricate 3D embroidery, gold embellishments, and delicate floral appliques adorned the garments, each a testament to his exceptional craftsmanship. Silhouettes remained elegant and long, with flowing chiffons and silks that moved effortlessly. A-line skirts and waist emphasis created flattering forms, while dramatic capes, trailing trains, and plunging necklines added a touch of grandeur. By drawing from the rich geometric patterns and intricate designs found in Moroccan architecture, Saab infuses his collections with a grounded approach.

Giorgio Armani Privé: The garments are crafted from luxurious fabrics like silk satin and lace, boasting shimmering elements and intricate embroidery. The collection’s palette of pale pinks, jade greens, soft blues, and regal golds, among others, adds to its allure, while tiered dresses and holographic silk organza creations evoke a sense of whimsy and fluidity.

This collection embodies the spirit of a woman who absorbs inspiration from every corner of the world. We see nods to Eastern influences with kimono-inspired dressing gowns and flowing silhouettes. The slow walk of the models further emphasizes the elegance and artistry of each piece.

Armani unleashes a playful side this season, evident in the maximalist appliqués, sheer layers, and the occasional model twirling with a hint of a smile. The beauty look, with its red lip and blue eyeshadow, evokes a glamorous 1920s vibe.

Aptly titled “Haute Couture en Jeu,” the collection embodies a playful spirit, showcasing Armani’s departure from his usual restraint towards a more maximalist approach. The occasional model, with a playful twirl and a hint of a smile, further underscores this departure from traditional runway stoicism.

Jean Paul Gaultier: Simone Rocha’s takeover as the creative director of JPG Couture this season was nothing short of mesmerizing. Taking over the reins with her beloved girly, flirtatious energy, Rocha injected a fresh, surprising energy. I instantly fell in love!

She presented sensuality with a new-age, genuine feminine gaze, offering a fresh take that counters Jean Paul Gaultier’s stunning 90s sexual empowerment.

Rocha, with her signature blend of romanticism and subversion, was a perfect match for Gaultier’s audacious spirit. The resulting collection did not disappoint, offering a blend of the two houses’ aesthetics. Rocha’s touch was evident throughout the 36-piece collection. Her love of volume and soft hues like blush pink were beautifully integrated with Gaultier’s iconic corsetry and structured silhouettes. Playful nods to Gaultier’s history were sprinkled throughout, with the conical bra reimagined as devil horns and sailor stripes fashioned from cascading ribbons.

The collection thrived on the contrast between Rocha’s signature romanticism and a newfound edge. The familiar Rocha elements – bows, ruffles, and layers of tulle – were there, but presented with a sharper, more assertive marker. This resonated with the rebellious spirit of Gaultier, adding a layer of complexity to the traditionally “girly” aesthetic. The colour palette of soft pink tones, nudes, and blacks further emphasized the collection’s sensuality.

Despite the play with subversion, the collection remained a celebration of femininity. Rocha’s signature roses and pearls adorned the garments, adding a touch of whimsicality. The corsetry, reinterpreted with looser lacing and trailing ribbons, hinted at sensuality without resorting to overt provocation. This collection offered a new perspective on femininity, one that was powerful and playfully provocative. The use of traditional couture techniques allowed Rocha to push the boundaries of her designs, resulting in a collection that felt both innovative and respectful. Rocha’s collection was a celebration of vintage opulence and unabashed femininity.