All about Paris Fashion Week Spring 2024

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by brownfashionagal

Peter Do: This time, it was all about the clothes, as Do returns to the fundamentals of design. The covetable wardrobe essentials were beautifully constructed with easy wearability in mind. Each piece spoke volumes through its cut, fabric, and construction, showcasing Do’s vision of simple opulence. The intriguing shapes struck a perfect balance between form-fitting and relaxed, offering a versatile range. The sharply tailored looks in a palette of neutrals with pops of bold red were a visual treat along with some delicious colour blocking.

The collection featured pieces from his upcoming Banana Republic capsule collection as well. The clothes embodied the beauty, comfort, coolness, and irresistible allure of clothes. Peter Do proved that less is more, and the focus on the essentials results in an exquisite experience.

Christian Dior: Welcome to another mess, and honestly, I wish I could just end this review with that statement. This collection left me disappointed. It’s astonishing how consistently underwhelming MGC can be. The clothes were uninspired, to say the least. I appreciate wearable fashion, but this collection felt like plain hell. The biggest issue here was the styling – even some decent pieces were styled in unflattering ways that made me question them.

There were a few pieces with beautiful construction that could have built a nice, basic wardrobe. However, the overload of weird asymmetrical, cardigan necklines left me baffled. It seemed like an attempt at a subtle deconstructive moment, but it ended up looking like a DIY project gone wrong. If the collection had stuck to being ‘normal,’ we might have had some simple chic pieces.

Heliot Emil: The Juul brothers’ audacious experiment pushes the boundaries of creativity by embracing the future of their brand through AI-driven design. This collection marks a symphonic fusion of innovation in the fashion world, where AI becomes an active collaborator. This collection seamlessly fuses an edgy utilitarian aesthetic with a touch of softness. Even though these clothes aren’t tangible, they are desirable. Though it’s an interesting move by the designer, it’s not entirely surprising given the industry’s growing fascination with technology.

Saint Laurent: Drawing inspiration from iconic figures like Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland, the collection offered a modern take on safari suits and jumpsuits, exuding an Aviator glamour that was both uncluttered and unapologetically glamorous. Vaccarello’s keen eye shone through as the collection seamlessly integrated elements from the 80s archives into a contemporary context while adding on his signature sharp yet cool energy. The clothes successfully transformed traditionally masculine items into feminine styles showcasing well-constructed, relaxed daytime looks with a looser silhouette that prioritizes simplicity over structure. Anthony Vaccarello continues to impress, making me fall back in love with Saint Laurent.

Marni: Francesco Risso brings on a happy riot of fashion innovation. The depth and lightness in the clothes created a delightful contrast that was ready to be worn by anyone with a whimsical approach towards classic dressing. This collection is a true celebration of avant-garde identity, blending simplistic silhouettes with anomalous shapes and humorous textures, resulting in impeccably and cleverly styled outfits. The materials used in the collection, from mohair and cool cotton to soft suede and luxurious leathers, added a touch of luxury to the whimsy. The color palette dipped into beautiful bright hues and plenty of pastels, with a mix of naturally toned shades. Stripes, a hallmark of Marni shows, played a major role, adding to the collection’s charm, while the intense focus on florals in various forms brought a kitschy and pretty element to the runway. This collection embodies what fashion is all about – pushing boundaries while delivering delicious, wearable art.

Dries Van Noten: Let me tell you, these are truly immaculate clothes that I’d practically die to wear! The collection boasts a simple somber color palette, with occasional pops of prints that add just the right amount of intrigue. What sets Dries apart is their ability to create real clothes – pieces you can wear to work or for a coffee date, yet they’re far from ordinary. Everyday staples are mildly twisted and deconstructed to give them that edgy flair. The collection experiments with both formal and sports-inspired silhouettes, and mismatched patterns rule across the board. Nobody blends prints, colours, and textures quite like Dries.

Rich textures and distinctive silhouettes demonstrate great tailoring and design, resulting in a modern, commercial and coherent collection. They offer versatile separates that empower individual style expression, emphasizing the fusion of masculine and feminine elements. It’s an upbeat yet elevated collection, a feast for both the senses and intellect.

Balmain: This Balmain collection is a breathtaking tribute to the brand’s heritage, inspired by founder Pierre Balmain’s profound love for the Rose. Olivier Rousteing’s creative genius shines through every aspect of this collection, and it’s no secret that this was the “stolen” collection, with 50 looks being stolen on the way to the Atelier from the airport. Despite this setback, the brand’s artisans managed to recreate about 70% of the missing pieces, resulting in a truly miraculous presentation.

The collection kicks off with striking tailored ensembles in monochrome, setting the stage for what’s to come. Then, it’s a riot of roses as Olivier indulges in his floral fantasy. The juxtaposition of softness with crisp tailoring creates a maximalist sensation, showcasing a vibrant blend of tradition and modern vitality. Classic couture motifs meet a bold sense of color, with an abundance of floral prints and embellishments. While it may not break new ground, this show is undeniably beautiful and pays a fitting tribute to Balmain’s legacy.

Lanvin: Lanvin blends the opulence of the 1920s with contemporary aesthetics, resulting in a splendid play of vintage and modern styles. Luxe fabrics and intricate embellishments dominate the collection, creating subtly extravagant ensembles. The saturated colours, inspired by Guy Bourdin’s old Lanvin advertising, add a nostalgic touch to the pieces. Following Bruno Sialelli’s departure, the brand has embraced its heritage and founder, Jeanne Lanvin. Classic House codes are masterfully reworked, showcasing a seamless transition and evolution within the brand’s DNA.

Rabanne: Titled ‘Origins of the Future’ is nothing short of extravagant. In this daring exploration of countless visual references spanning from medieval to futurism, Dossena manages to seamlessly juxtapose traditional clothing with modern elements, resulting in an awe-inspiring display of intricate details. The collection exudes a powerful, lavish feminine representation, featuring truly mythical god-like ensembles. Of course, there’s no shortage of glitz and sparkle, the elements to swoon over—fringe, peacock feathers, and chain belts among them. The most delectable aspect of the collection lies in its textures, showcasing a rich mix of chainmail, shaggy wool, golden mesh, sequins and feathers.

Dossena successfully retains iconic elements while introducing well-thought-out innovations, showcasing couture-level craftsmanship with innovative materials and techniques. Julien Dossena has not only paid homage to Paco Rabanne’s legacy but has also reaffirmed his potential to shape the industry.

Chloé : Gabriela Hearst’s final bow at Chloé after her remarkable three-year tenure is nothing short of a poetic celebration. This collection is a heartfelt homage to her transformational journey with the brand, and it’s evident from every meticulously crafted piece.

Hearst’s muse for this collection? Flowers. Nature-inspired designs bloom in sophisticated modern silhouettes, all enveloped in a beautiful floral theme. The predominantly black and white palette, punctuated by two stunning deep yellow looks, adds a touch of drama and vibrancy.
What truly stands out is the beautiful interplay of textures. From soft leathers to ruffled knits, the materials used are both strong and delicate, embodying the essence of femininity.

But Hearst’s Chloé legacy goes beyond aesthetics. Throughout her tenure, she championed sustainability, and this collection is no different. It’s a testament to the brand’s commitment to being a luxury B-Corp, where beauty meets responsibility.

Givenchy: This collection by Matthew Williams is a game-changer; It’s probably his best work yet, breathing fresh life into the House of Givenchy. The contrast and growth from last season are remarkable. Williams seems to have found his Givenchy woman, offering functional yet undeniably feminine pieces. Structured blazers and pleated trousers added an elegant touch, but the real stars were those airy strappy dresses. Floral motifs, lace trims, embroidery, and impeccable draping, some dripping with embellishments – they were pure dreams!

Rick Owens: Rick Owens takes a departure from his usual dark, post-apocalyptic aesthetic, offering a theatrical and almost sugary approach that surprises and captivates. This season, Owens embraces color like never before, with vibrant reds, sultry burgundies, and playful pinks, creating a harmonious blend of contradictions that keeps you hooked. As always, Owens places a strong emphasis on shapes and proportions. The collection showcases big pointy shoulders, blanket minidresses, fishtail gowns, and straight voluminous jumpsuits, all contributing to the exaggerated and futuristic silhouettes that define his designs. Leather takes centre stage and dominates this collection, but it’s beautifully complemented by soft silks, linen, and chiffons, resulting in a great interplay of textures, colors, and materials. This collection exudes joyfulness and freshness, expanding Rick Owens’ dark universe.

Schiaparelli: Schiaparelli has truly become divine with each passing season, and this collection titled ‘An Everyday Sensation’ is no exception. It is a delightful reimagining of everyday wear, transforming it into extraordinary masterpieces that captivate the senses. One standout component is the revival of the archival Salvador Dalí Lobster, adding a surreal touch to the pieces. But what truly shines through is the emphasis on ease of movement.

The addition of signature golden tiptoes to sneakers introduces a hot new item that’s bound to fly off the shelves. The collection features sumptuous gold accessories, elevating the polished looks in a neutral color palette of black, ecru, and white. The dreamlike energy exuding from these clothes takes you on a luxurious and whimsical journey.

Isabel Marant: Isabel Marant strikes an intriguing balance between subtle 80s inspiration and the signature Parisian glam the brand is renowned for. The collection seamlessly blends sporty motifs with chic elements, resulting in a unique aesthetic. Standout pieces include relaxed lace dresses, cargo pants, leather sets, and heavily ruched looks that exude a relaxed yet seductive energy. Marant also explores utilitarian uniforms and luscious partywear, showcasing versatility. While it may not be my personal favourite Marant collection, it undeniably encapsulates the brand’s essence and will undoubtedly resonate with her clientele.

Tomo Koizumi: This collection is an absolute dream! The ethereal looks are like a breath of fresh air, with each piece based on the signature white tulle splattered with vivid colors, creating an enchanting and mesmerizing effect. The abstract floral motifs add a touch of nature-inspired charm giving the collection an art-like quality. These looks are undeniably Couture; they possess a magnificent quality making each piece feel like a work of art.

Loewe: This collection astutely concentrated on eclectic daywear, presenting a refreshing take on everyday fashion. It was a delightful blend of structure, draping, and playful elements, showcasing versatility in its designs. The muted and neutral colour palette, punctuated by occasional pops of colour, was a harmonious choice that appealed to a broad spectrum of tastes. The collection artfully played with proportions, offering clean-cut silhouettes that exuded sophistication. What stood out most was its originality and cohesiveness, which seamlessly tied together the various pieces. This collection’s creative focus, subtly infused with surrealism, made it a standout in this season.

Issey Miyake: This Issey Miyake show is undoubtedly one of my favorite in recent times. Satoshi Kondo, in a tribute to the late designer’s Spring 1998 collection, titled this ethereal collection ‘Grasping the Formless’. This collection skillfully explores the concept of fluidity, playing with drapery and transparency. The garments are airy and lightweight, adding another dimension of freedom to the wearer. Towards the end of the show, oversized draped suiting creates dramatic, nature-inspired silhouettes, sometimes drowning models in twisted fabric. It’s a true feast for the senses, offering a captivating blend of nostalgia and innovation.

Nina Ricci: This collection left me a bit puzzled. Firstly, there was a glaring lack of cohesion. It felt like each ensemble had fallen onto the runway from a completely different collection. It’s essential for a fashion show to tell a story, and this one failed to do so. Some of the clothes seemed shoddy and ill-fitting, which was disappointing. On the bright side, it was a simpler approach compared to Reed’s last collection but that simplicity didn’t compensate for the lack of unity.

In all honesty, this collection resembled a first-year fashion production more than a Paris runway show. While Harris Reed is undoubtedly a talented designer, he needs to buff up his work at Nina Ricci to truly showcase that talent. Here’s hoping he finds his footing soon and delivers the excellence we know he’s capable of.

Victoria Beckham: While there was an admirable spirit of experimentation, not all of it hit the mark. The wired plunging necklines on some t-shirts felt forced and out of place. Amidst the disappointment, a few well-tailored suits stood out as the defining elements of this collection. Beckham managed to blend modern aesthetics with a subtle vintage touch, creating a unique style. The ribbed bodysuits and sheer pastel gowns were the standout pieces, showcasing her evolving creativity. Beckham has clearly matured as a designer, even though this collection may not be my first preference. It is undeniably a good collection, demonstrating her ability to push boundaries and maintain a strong presence.

Coperni: This Coperni collection by designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant is a breath of fresh air! This lineup effortlessly blends sporty and ultra-modern styles, drawing inspiration from both worker uniforms and corporate outfits. The collection features a delightful mix of loose-fitting suits, form-fitting sheer dresses, chic bra tops, and oversized button-downs. It’s a straightforward yet commercial collection that brings a touch of edge to everyday wear. Whether you’re dressing for the office or a night out, these pieces have got you covered with their versatile creations.

Comme des Garçons: Rei Kawakubo’s collection is a breath of fresh air, a rebellion against the gloom of our times. Known for pushing the boundaries of fashion, CDG never fails to stand out, and this season is no exception. The collection is a burst of vibrant colors, featuring floral prints, lace overlays, tulle trims, massive Peter Pan collars, and puffed ribbons that create a whimsical and playful atmosphere. The addition of statement sneakers and very short wigs adds a playful twist. Textile sculptures echoing joy are on display, delivering a kaleidoscopic and unconventional experience that’s unforgettable.

Alexander McQueen:

An emotional journey of 26 years comes to an end as Sarah Burton takes her final bow at Alexander McQueen. Her dedication to preserving Lee McQueen’s visionary legacy is a truly iconic chapter in fashion history. Her tenure has been a tribute to heritage and innovation. Sarah Burton embodied that McQueen magic to perfection.

Her final collection, ‘Anatomy II,’ pays tribute to fearless creativity and McQueen’s incredible craftsmanship. The show, inspired by female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I, and McQueen’s iconic rose motif, embodies empowerment; each piece celebrates the female form.

It’s an incredible swansong for her, For 13 years, Sarah Burton has carried the torch of creativity and empowerment. Thank you, Sarah, for this captivating journey through the world of fashion, celebrating the strength and symbolism of womanhood.

Balenciaga: This was quintessentially Balenciaga, set against a heavily draped grand red velvet runway that added a touch of opulence. With a staggering 88 looks, the collection was certainly extensive, a bit overwhelming for me. Demna’s signature super oversized proportions were a prominent feature, breathing new life into staples like movie trench coats, floral maxi gowns, and blazers with massive shoulders. The eveningwear segment was a standout, featuring gorgeous velvet gowns and heavily sequined creations, culminating in a delightful bridal moment. This collection again marked a departure from some of Gvasalia’s more daring theatrics, taking a more subtle approach while still offering nuanced throwbacks to his previous creations. The inclusion of friends and family on the dramatic runway added a personal touch, making it true to his spirit.

Valentino: This Valentino collection is a perplexing mix of minimalism and classic motifs that left me feeling a bit underwhelmed. While the marriage of these elements was intriguing, the palette of colors chosen was surprisingly depressing, lacking the vibrant energy usually associated with the brand. The repeated use of cutouts, crafted out of plaster mouldings with the ‘altorilievo’ technique, didn’t quite hit the mark for me. It felt overused and lost its novelty quickly.

On the bright side, the collection featured strong-shouldered suits, striking textiles and bold outlines, showcasing some glimpses of brilliance. It’s a far cry from the magic we witnessed at the start of his tenure at Valentino. Has Pierpaolo Piccioli’s lost its spark? I wonder.

Louis Vuitton: I’ve mostly been a regular critic of Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton and his vision, but this collection left me pleasantly surprised. It’s safe to say I loved it! The collection showcased incredible open silhouettes with clever layering, giving it a fresh feel. What struck me the most was the democratic appeal of this collection; it truly works across all ages and body types. The flowing silhouettes, vintage touches, and structured elements were perfectly balanced, complemented by exquisite accessories and Y2K-inspired details. Standout pieces included bomber jackets, airy ruffled skirts, big belts, puffed tops, A-line minidresses, and intricate houndstooth jackets. This was the first show under Ghesquière’s tenure that I genuinely liked.

Mugler: The three “Mugler C’s” – cutouts, corsets, and c*unt – were undeniably prominent. From the moment the models hit the runway, it was clear that Mugler had cranked up the heat to a scorching level, and every piece was just as delicious as the next. What truly set this collection apart were the razor-sharp silhouettes that accentuated the curves and edges, making a bold and unforgettable statement. And let’s talk about those floating chiffon trails – they were nothing short of stunning, adding an ethereal touch to the fierce lineup. Cadwallader’s talent shines through in every garment, effortlessly merging his modern and sexy vision with sharp craftsmanship. The windswept looks brought vintage glam to the forefront, creating a captivating contrast with the depths of oceanic beauty, seamlessly blended with the Mugler archives. In a word: sensational!

Chanel: Firstly, the styling. It’s no secret that Chanel has had its fair share of questionable styling choices recently, and unfortunately, this collection doesn’t escape that tendency. The haphazard combinations are downright distracting and off-putting. But, here’s the silver lining – if you look past the styling mess and closely examine the pieces themselves, you’ll find some gems. There are genuinely well-crafted garments that I’d love to wear. The attention to detail and craftsmanship are still there. The overall atmosphere is underwhelming, lacking the usual Chanel hype. Virginie Viard’s direction has built up a dislike, and this collection did little to change my mind. In the end, it’s a collection with potential, but it’s marred by flawed choices.

Miu Miu: This Miu Miu collection is a fusion of archetypes and uniforms, delivering a prettily sexy, mysteriously edgy vibe. It expertly showcases glamour without going overboard, maintaining an air of intrigue. The parade of ultra mini silhouettes is a daring choice, while vintage-inspired school uniforms and ’90s fashion elements provide a nostalgic yet timely nod to the early 2000s. The collection effortlessly exudes sexiness, making it a must-have for those looking to channel their inner prep with a touch of magnetism. It’s a refreshing take that’s both traditional and trendy.