All about Milan Fashion Week Spring 2024

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by brownfashionagal

Alberta Ferretti: Alberta Ferretti takes us back to ethereal basics with a strong emphasis on relaxed daywear in romantic hues, particularly white. The collection offers simple, well-constructed garments that are essential additions to any wardrobe. A sense of lightness pervades the collection, and Ferretti reintroduces her signature dainty chiffon dresses, creating a delightful nostalgia. This collection marks a return to form for Ferretti after a couple of lacklustre seasons. The way the fabrics flowed and wrapped around the body was a testament to the brand’s impeccable craftsmanship. Its grand finale of glossy gold and silver fringe dresses adds a touch of drama to practical yet undeniably feminine looks.

Blumarine: Dear Lord, when I get to Heaven, I better be wearing Blumarine spring 2024. This is a vibrant homage to the Y2K era, embracing its flashy and audacious essence with a touch of angelic-a. With a strong undercurrent of heavenly symbolism and purity, the runway showcased models adorned with breathtaking angel wings, making me question if Victoria’s Secret can even keep up. What truly sets this collection apart is its versatility. From romantic, floor-sweeping gowns to provocative, transparent PVC dresses, there’s something for every style sensibility. The mishmash of textures, including sequins, plastic, crochet knits, and tulle, adds depth and dimension to the garments. Nicola Brognano has once again worked his magic this collection is a heavenly ode to the 2000s, simultaneously nostalgic and fresh.

Bottega Veneta: Of course, Bottega Veneta was divine! Creative Director Matthieu Blazy took fashion enthusiasts on a journey of self-discovery with a collection that redefined everyday wardrobe staples. The emphasis on premium craftsmanship was unmistakable throughout the presentation. Blazy’s cultural references in the collection were subtly integrated, creating a beautifully eclectic fusion of influences from around the world. While these references may have been vague, they added a layer of intrigue to the collection, inviting viewers to explore and interpret each piece in their own way.
It was evident that thoughtfulness was present in every look of the lineup. Each outfit felt meticulously curated, with a purpose behind every choice, be it the choice of fabric, color, or silhouette. It’s this subtle mystique that adds an extra layer of intrigue to the outfits. One of the standout features of the collection was the way leather was crafted and manipulated to perfection. It delivered some major wow moments, showcasing the brand’s mastery in working with this luxurious material. The experimentation with new textures, shapes, and materials was evident, yet it was skillfully executed.

Del core: Drawing inspiration from the intricate interplay between nature and architectural design, “Slices of Reverie” successfully captures the delicate balance between complexity and simplicity that each realm brings. It is evident that the Del Core team has meticulously crafted a collection that embraces both elements with finesse. The quintessential Del Core woman is portrayed as poised, practical, and impeccably dressed in this collection. The designer weaves a narrative of texture and soft colors, creating a dreamy atmosphere where shades of yellow and lavender pop against sharp blacks and whites; the lineup reaches its crescendo with a powerful deep red.
The play of textures is a standout feature, ranging from sharp pantsuits to draped satin dresses. However, what truly sets this collection apart is the symmetrical cutouts strategically added to the looks, forming flower-like motifs in a structured layout. This recurring element adds a unique dimension, showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship behind each piece. The collection exudes an air of soft theatricality, with almost a couture-like take on the ensembles.

Diesel: Today, where distressed denim has become the norm, Diesel went above and beyond. Hosted during a rainy 8-hour rave, this spectacle perfectly captured the brand’s essence. These garments were shredded and destroyed to the core, embracing a rebellious spirit that felt fresh and daring. It was an evolution of the brand that still played to its nostalgic appeal, and it was evident that Diesel was pushing creative boundaries to empower itself. Under the creative direction of Marten, the brand has seen a Renaissance. Denim received a hardcore haute couture treatment; redefining what this versatile fabric can do.
Diesel has always been about the party, and this collection was no different. It exuded a strong post-apocalyptic meets Y2K party chic vibe, and every piece seemed like an experiment in pushing creative limits. While the clothes were meant to look run down and wrecked, they surprisingly exuded inherent joy and shine. It wasn’t conventionally pretty, it was extraordinary. Diesel was unapologetic, not holding back from anything, and that’s what made this collection truly exceptional.

Emporio Armani: his radiant and airy collection paints a vivid picture with its gorgeous color palette dominated by shades of greens, blues, purples, and pinks, discreetly illuminated by touches of light. The show commenced with a classic Armani look, setting the tone for what was to follow. Luxe easy-to-wear separates, including relaxed blazers and tailored trousers. Towards the end, the runway was graced with dainty and light purple-hued gowns that softly shimmered. The use of color in this collection was truly magical, as it seamlessly blended with light to create a visual spectacle.

Etro: This Etro collection is an exhilarating fusion of countless prints and patterns, a true celebration of ‘Nowhere.’ This title aptly encapsulates boundless creativity, defying conventional fashion rules with limitless combinations. The runway was a riot of eccentric patterns, bright colors, and intricate floral details, captivating the senses at every turn. What’s truly remarkable is how this collection not only embraced a multitude of prints but also varied textures seamlessly.

With so much visual complexity, the key was undoubtedly in the styling, which was executed with precision. Every piece in this collection was a masterpiece, the clothes themselves being the star of the show. While I’ve been critical of brands like Etro for their appropriation of South Asian design motifs, objectivity is crucial. Marco De Vincenzo undeniably delivered a powerful collection, and it shines through.

Fendi: This collection left me torn. Firstly the color palette seemed haphazardly put together, with uninspired colors blending with neutrals, leaving much to be desired. However, I can’t help but wonder if some of my criticisms would have been alleviated with a better-defined palette. The collection aimed to pay somber tribute to women, but it veered into dullness rather than depth. On a positive note, the silhouettes and styling were surprisingly great, a notable improvement from the previous collection.

Kim Jones’s Fendi consistently leaves me with a sense of something amiss, leading to a less-than-pleasant overall experience. Inspired by the effortless Italian street style near the Colosseum in Rome, this collection featured smart separates, luxurious knits, relaxed coats, subtle leather pieces, and sporty bodycon gowns. Despite its potential, it’s a collection I could easily forget within minutes.

Ferragamo: Maximilian Davis strikes again with a celebration of the laid back Caribbean ways blended with Italian verve. The influences of Arte Povera are evident, but Davis manages to infuse his own signature flair into the collection.

One thing is for sure – Ferragamo is no longer just for your grandma. This season, there’s an absence of the hot red shade that Davis previously brought into the Ferragamo world. Instead, we’re treated to a refined palette of black, white, and green, which exudes sophistication. Sleek tailoring and silhouettes take center stage, crafted with exquisite precision. The collection explores ease and balance, offering an effortless approach to both fabric and construction. These garments showcase how contemporary minimalism can be both fresh and captivating.

Gucci: This was distressing. Gucci broke up with its vivacious, flamboyant identity and opted for a somewhat mundane path. It’s clear that Gucci is yearning for minimal sophistication, a stark departure from the brand’s previous exuberant and gender-fluid designs.

Let me be clear; I’m not questioning Sabato De Sarno’s design and creative talent. However, the decision for Gucci to venture down the route of an Hermes or Chanel is perplexing. While I was never a fervent fan of Alessandro Michele’s vision for Gucci, at least he had a vision. For a new creative director, demonstrating the ability to craft wearable and marketable clothing is undeniably important. But where is the creative?

Sarno aimed to bring back the Italian-ness of Gucci, which, to me, is a paradox. Michele’s Gucci often radiated a signature, in-your-face, loud, and gaudy Italian energy, which was part of its charm. The collection also seemed to draw heavily from other Italian brands; there were hints of Valentino’s timeless elegance, traces of Prada’s flirtatiousness, and a dash of Miu Miu’s girly charm.

Technically, the clothes were sound, boasting sharp tailoring, classic shapes, and luxe embellishments. Logos were subtly included, indicating a shift toward a more understated branding approach. While I can’t wait to see Sabato’s evolution at Gucci, it’s evident that he’s a skilled designer. Still, I hope he discovers his unique, visionary touch.

Max Mara: Max Mara unveiled an army of empowered Max Mara women, channelling the spirit of the British Women’s Land Army from the 1940s. This fusion of strength and femininity was a standout theme, seamlessly blending workwear aesthetics with contemporary sensibilities. Drawing inspiration from urban gardens, the collection’s colours were a striking highlight, with rich and deep tones that exude sophistication.

The impeccable styling accentuated each piece, showcasing precision to the max. Military-inspired rompers, utilitarian jackets, and trench coats dominated the runway, infusing a sense of utility glamour that reached new heights. These pieces effortlessly balanced functionality and style, offering a surprisingly fresh take on military-inspired fashion.

Moschino: The runway show was nothing short of a multi-act play, seamlessly blending archive-inspired fashion with the world of performance arts. Designed by four talented stylists – Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu, and Katie Grand – the collection featured 40 distinct looks that paid homage to Franco Moschino’s iconic archive. Titled ’40 Years of Love,’ the collection was a heartfelt tribute to Moschino’s enduring legacy in the fashion world. It exuded a high-energy celebration of women and somewhat random commentary on the fashion industry.

While the collection had its heartwarming references to the archives, it left me somewhat underwhelmed. It seems like the Moschino team is using these seasons as a palate cleanser following Jeremy Scott’s legendary decade-long tenure at the helm. The successor to Jeremy Scott certainly faces a tough act to follow, but I genuinely can’t wait to see how the brand evolves in the future. This collection was a fitting tribute to the past, but it has me eager to witness the brand’s future; Moschino’s legacy lives on (hopefully?)

Prada: This Prada collection is a spectacular display of absolute freedom, with a whole load of fringe that takes this to a new level. The collection’s focus on structure, fluidity, and movement is evident throughout, especially in the lightweight ensembles crafted from airy fabrics. What truly sets this collection apart is its dedicated focus on craftsmanship, challenging classic tailoring norms and pushing the boundaries of sartorial excellence. What struck me is how it manages to be fresh yet familiar, reminiscent of Prada’s Fall 2020 collection.

Simplicity and quirkiness effortlessly marry on the runway, resulting in whimsical yet sophisticated garments that captivate the eye. My personal favorite? The sheer organza dresses that seemed to float on the runway! Designed by the dynamic duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who have been collaborating for three years now, this collection perfectly embodies their sweet spot, and it’s vividly evident in the garments they’ve produced.

Roberto Cavalli: Titled “Paradise,” is a fusion of ’70s hippie disco vibes and untamed jungle aesthetics, resulting in an ensemble that exudes a desire for celebration. These are the clothes you crave for the ultimate party experience; clothes you want to party, clothes you want to be wild in.

An undeniable heat emanated from the ultra-sexy garments, showcasing relaxed yet sensually alluring silhouettes and cuts. The color palette mirrors the essence of a tropical paradise, ranging from the warm hues of a summer sunset to the lush depths of the tropics. Prints and feathers reigned supreme, with standout pieces including bold printed dresses, flowy bellbottoms, and sheer knitted gowns. This collection serves as a perfect muse for beach club moodboards, offering inspiration that seamlessly blends relaxation with a passionate, tropical flair.

Tom Ford: Honestly, I didn’t even realize there was a debut happening at Tom Ford, and that’s saying something. Peter Hawkings taking the creative reins should’ve been exciting, but this collection turned out to be surprisingly underwhelming. It felt disappointingly unoriginal, drawing direct inspiration from Donyale Luna and even Tom Ford himself, with little reinterpretation. The collection seemed stuck in the past, channelling heavy 90s and early 00s vibes, but not in a good way. There was a distinct lack of relevance and reinterpretation, making it indistinguishable from previous Ford collections.

Nevertheless, I’ll cut some slack considering it was the debut collection. The craftsmanship and styling were commendable. Seduction and glamour continue to be top priorities for the Tom Ford brand. Here’s hoping for a more distinct and fresh direction in the future.

Versace: Well, it’s a no for me. This Versace Spring 2024 collection was probably the most underwhelming show I’ve seen from them in ages. They went all in on the obvious ’60s references. I get that the reference was the ’60s, but the clothes looked more aged than vintage, and that’s where it missed the mark.

The pastel checkerboard skirt suits, hair bows, short-sleeveless dresses, knee-high boots, and ballerina shoes were the standout looks in a collection that seemed way too minimal for Versace’s usual extravagant standards. But overall, it was a sugary mess that left a bad taste in my mouth.