All about London Fashion Week Spring 2024

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by brownfashionagal

Di Petsa: For ‘Reflections of Venus’ Di Petsa embraced Venus-inspired themes featuring wet illusion dresses and expanding into wet look swimsuits and intricate embellishments, hinting at her evolving creativity. Abundant gold, hand-knitted minidresses, cut-out dresses and pregnancy symbols adorn this collection, delving into breaking, healing and self-discovery. She seamlessly integrates new styles into her signature aesthetic, offering a refreshing take on sexy wet looks. Her Greek heritage remains a wellspring of inspiration, and this season’s focus on unconditional love draws from the birth of Venus, reflecting the enduring connection to her homeland.

Huishan Zhang: With its relaxed shapes and cuts, the collection presents a refreshing take on eveningwear, offering a wide array of light, airy garments. Inspired by ballet, the clothes tell a captivating story, weaving in intricate details and celebrating the cultural richness of China. The collection’s expansive range of options caters to diverse tastes, making it a standout choice for clients seeking relaxed elegance. Huishan Zhang has delivered a strong collection that beautifully captures today’s pulse.

Mowalola: The collection showcases extremely revealing clothes, adorned with graphic prints and motifs, making a bold statement for those who dare to flaunt their individuality. One notable point of contention was the use of the Saudi Arabia flag as a micro mini skirt, which sparked controversy. The designer initially responded indifferently but later issued an apology, acknowledging the insensitivity of the choice. Additionally, the collection featured micro skirts fashioned after the flags of the United Kingdom, Japan and China. Despite the controversies, Mowalola’s signatures shine through, offering a daring exploration of sexy, cool-kid fashion.

JW Anderson: These clothes are a delightful surprise, revealing more than meets the eye. With a focus on movement, the collection presents clever pieces that balance playfulness with pragmatism. Anderson’s knack for creating signature pieces with an intellectual edge is on full display here, showcasing his mastery in fabric manipulation and craftsmanship. The collection blends avant-garde design with everyday wearability, making it perfect for those who appreciate fashion’s artistic side but still want to look chic. In a world where fashion can sometimes be overly serious, Anderson’s collection injects a refreshing dose of fun each season. These clothes are more than just garments; they’re statements of substance.

Roksanda: This Roksanda collection is a captivating blend of powerful and spiritually feminine fashion. Drawing inspiration from orthodox priests’ robes, frescoes and hats, the pieces exude a compelling aura. The collection takes a bold approach to color, skillfully contrasting vibrant eye-catching shades with sharp blacks and soft neutrals, creating a striking visual contrast. What truly sets this collection apart are the dramatic voluminous shapes that dominate the runway. From flowing satin draped gowns in bold hues to impeccably tailored suits and coats adorned with draped headpieces, Roksanda effortlessly marries tradition with modernity. The result is a softer mature glamour.

Molly Goddard: Inspired by vintage underwear and flipped garments, it’s unapologetically feminine and beautiful. Goddard’s genius lies in the details, with thoughtful frills and ruffles adorning her creations. What struck me the most was how the clothes managed to be both statement-making and intimate, all while embracing an understated elegance via a neutral color palette. Her signature element, tulle, was subtly subverted, adding a delightful twist to the collection. From bustier-style tops to barely-there bralettes, lightweight cardigans to ruffled skirts, drop-waist midis to voluminous tulle dresses, every piece carried an old-school charm. This is undoubtedly Molly Goddard’s best collection in recent memory – a neatly curated, beautiful showcase of her talent.

16arlington: This 16Arlington collection masterfully played on David Lynch’s 1997 film, “Lost Highway,” weaving elements of intrigue and seduction into its designs. The collection seamlessly blended relaxed styling with sharp tailoring, creating intriguing silhouettes that exuded sophistication and sensuality. One standout feature was the generous use of big paillettes, which dominated the collection and added a touch of glamour to slit skirts, tank tops, and a splendid trench coat. These eye-catching embellishments brought a playful yet practical element to the outfits. It was a cohesive and captivating fusion of sex and substance.

David Koma: True to form, David Koma delivers a shiny and sexy collection; He proves that crafting ultra-chic, sexy ensembles is his forte. This season, Koma drew inspiration from Queen Elizabeth II, embracing her affinity for vibrant botanical colors and floral motifs. Amidst an otherwise black canvas, the collection showcases bursts of delicious green, lavender, and orange, evoking a playful contrast. The rose takes center stage as Koma masterfully blends romanticism with sensuality. Koma’s signature hyperfeminine style retains its edge, resulting in an ensemble of irresistibly seductive garments.

Richard Quinn: This stunning showcase was a heartfelt tribute to his late father, Patrick. While grief often shrouds creativity, Quinn’s collection artfully transformed sorrow into an ethereal celebration. The eveningwear in this collection was nothing short of gorgeous. Dramatic silhouettes took center stage, featuring flowy capes, Dior-esque cage minidresses, and impeccably structured gowns. Opulent details adorned every piece, from intricate embroideries to lavish embellishments. Fans of Quinn’s signature maximalist floral prints won’t be disappointed either; they made a quick appearance. The overall effect was a line of couture-like creations, leaving us in awe of this beautifully crafted, emotionally fulfilling show.

Simone Rocha: ‘Dress Rehearsal’ by Simone Rocha is an absolute floral fantasy brought to life. It is an enchanting journey through the realms of procession, obsession, declaration of love, decoration, and tension. Roses reign supreme in this collection, blooming on delicate fabrics that are adorned with pearls, lace, ribbons, and tulle. The florals are both bold and delicate, a juxtaposition of femininity and utilitarianism that leaves you in awe. One unexpected twist in this collection is Rocha’s collaboration with Crocs. Rocha’s genius has transformed these comfy classics with her romantic touch.

Erdem: Erdem takes a captivating journey through the late Dowager Duchess of Devonshire, Debo’s, world, seamlessly blending strength and beauty. The designer’s exploration of a repair approach to fashion pieces delivers a mesmerizing display of patchwork, where different fabrics and textures intertwine. Layering and mix-and-match styling are prevalent throughout the collection while the palette is a feast for the eyes, with a profusion of rich, vibrant colors. There was a beautiful mix of dainty ethereal dresses and structured, tailored pieces that gave the collection versatility. Erdem masterfully infuses an air of subtle aristocracy into modern design sensibilities. Erdem has this magical way of making florals feel sophisticated and edgy, not overly sweet.

Knwls: Knwls maintains their signature style, but this time, it’s all about subtlety. The color palette is more restrained, and they’ve skillfully blended heavy and soft textures. The clever styling choices truly stand out in this collection. From sheer pieces to powerful jackets, soft corseted tops to skimpy bra tops, and low-slung jeans to figure-hugging gowns, it’s a diverse mix that caters to various tastes. But my absolute favorite has to be those massive thigh-high boots. It’s got a dash of streetwear coolness mixed with a whole lot of sexiness. This collection is perfect for those looking to make a statement without going overboard. The duo’s cohesive aesthetic exudes a refined yet raw and sexy energy capturing a primal essence that resonates with their audience.

Emilia Wickstead: The collection drew inspiration from the socialites of the 1920s & 1930s South of France. The spirited, flirtatious colors paired with laid-back materials resulted in practical summer pieces that were both chic and comfortable. Pieces perfect for strolling along sun-kissed beaches or sipping cocktails at a seaside café. What struck me the most was how this collection felt refreshingly different from Wickstead’s usual design language. It was more casual and relaxed, a departure from her typically elegant eveningwear. This season, she clearly had her sights set on daywear, and it was an exciting new area.

Supriya Lele: Supriya Lele’s comeback to the runway after a two-year hiatus was nothing short of spectacular. Her collection drew inspiration from the unlikeliest of sources: a blend of Bruce Weber’s aesthetics, Indian goddesses, and those hilarious Indian uncles in their tank tops. The result? A stunning fusion of cultures and styles that left me in awe. What struck me most were the subtle yet sensually charged garments. Lele’s mastery of draping, borrowing elements from the elegant sari, was the collection’s standout feature. She played with sheer fabrics skillfully, adding an extra layer of sensuality to the ensembles. It was a beautifully explorative journey into femininity, offering clothes that you would want to wear rather than feeling like they’re dictating your choices. These are clothes that empower you to desire them, not the other way around.

Ashish: Ashish is back on the runway with truly happy and fun clothes that transport you to a dreamlike fantasy world. The collection was a kaleidoscope of colors and materials, with whimsical styling that made it impossible not to smile. Glamour, glitter, and joy were in abundance, injecting the London Fashion Week with the energy it often lacks. The show’s grand finale featured a stunning sequinned saree moment that left me in awe. What truly stood out about this collection was its inclusivity. Ashish made sure that everyone felt celebrated, with a spotlight on individuality. It was a show for all, and in a world where diversity and inclusivity should always take center stage!

Burberry: Burberry this time is a rollercoaster of classic British energy with a modern twist. Daniel Lee, in his sophomore outing for the brand, takes the house classics to new heights. It’s a bold fusion of Burberry’s rich heritage with a youthful vibe to rejuvenate the brand. A nuanced rebranding approach cleverly embeds Burberry’s iconic motifs in understated ways. This collection showcases a crystal-clear commercial vision, perfectly aligning with Burberry’s current performance. However, it’s not quite as mind-blowing as Lee’s debut collection last season. But hey, it’s still early days for him.

Harris Reed: Reed didn’t hold back on the drama, with larger-than-life silhouettes that turned heads and made a statement. The collection showcased brilliant corset work, dramatic necklines, elegant fishtail hems, and those signature operatic headpieces that we’ve come to love. In a palette limited to just three colors – copper, black, and white – Reed’s craftsmanship took center stage. The ensembles effortlessly blended overt femininity with robust architectural elements. In just a few seasons, he has established a distinctive design identity, solidifying his status as an intriguing contender in the London fashion scene.