All about New York Fashion Week Spring 2024

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by brownfashionagal

Coach: Stuart Vevers paid a subtle homage to his decade-long tenure as the brand’s creative director. Coach took a turn towards a more youthful mood showcasing leather slip dresses, upcycled denim, leather jackets, sheer knitted maxis and relaxed suiting. The standout features were undeniably the super cute whimsical bags, each a testament to Coach’s knack for accessories. The venue, New York Public Library with its historic opulent surroundings skillfully merges with the rebellious sexy clothes, creating a captivating contrast that encapsulates the city’s dynamic spirit. Vevers struck a balance between edgy and wearable, resulting in a strong and commercially appealing collection. These past few collections have celebrated a decade of creativity and New York staples while staying true to its iconic style, making it a noteworthy addition to the brand’s legacy.

Rodarte: Rodarte embraced the essence of spring showcasing dreamy floral motifs and romantic gowns with a star-studded lineup. Their collection featured sleek, elongated silhouettes in a vibrant color palette with lux textures. With Lili Reinhart opening in a dramatic purple ballgown and Milla Jovovich closing in a stunning white-and-black bow-laden gown. The collection features a gorgeous blend of sleek silhouettes and intricate beaded creations, with showstopping ruffle dresses, showcasing Rodarte’s profound mastery of color and texture.

Helmut Lang:

Titled ‘Born to Go’ this collection skillfully honors some archival Helmut Lang moments while adding poetic expressions of identity. Helmut Lang’s brand revival taps into ’90s nostalgia and reflects Do’s immigrant and queer perspective in today’s NYC fashion. The pieces showcase a cool urban uniform, offering practicality for everyday wear. The collection’s sharp minimalist aesthetic is striking and carries a deep commitment to preserving the legacy of Helmut Lang while infusing it with Peter’s own perspective and creativity. The juxtaposition of bold colors and patterns layered on black and white garments adds a dynamic dimension.

Do’s focus is on creating timeless, affordable high-fashion suits while preserving Lang’s legacy, aiming to broaden the brand’s appeal. His meticulous attention to detail and luxe suits are poised to rejuvenate the Helmut Lang brand. While the collection was undeniably good, it didn’t necessarily break new ground. Perhaps, though, this subtlety is part of its charm – its ability to seamlessly merge the old with the new. There’s faith that this is just the beginning of something promising.

Christian Siriano: In its 15th year as a brand, Christian Siriano showcased a celebration of his illustrious career. Drawing inspiration from ballet, exemplifying a fantasy rather than the everyday attire. The collection embraced a maximalist approach, skillfully playing with the contrast between sharp and soft silhouettes. The textures were a highlight, with tulle, lace, jacquard, and floral appliqués seamlessly paired with ribbons, corsets, and iridescent leaves. The star-studded front row included Janet Jackson, Laverne Cox, Alicia Silverstone, Avril Lavigne, Kesha, and a surprise performance by Sia. While it may not be his absolute best work, it undeniably served as an apt celebration of his journey

Prabal Gurung: This collection seamlessly blended his Nepalese and American roots, resulting in truly gorgeous clothes that left a lasting impression. The collection was a beautiful fusion of textures, colors, prints, and silhouettes, showcasing Gurung’s mastery of design. This season, there was a noticeable emphasis on technique, elevating each piece to a new level of craftsmanship. Inspired by a recent trip to India to visit his grandmother, Gurung skillfully incorporated elements of traditional Eastern wear into contemporary Western outfits, creating a harmonious blend of cultures. This collection departs from his usual spirited style, embracing ease, sustainability, and a modern sensibility while honoring his past and cultural influences.

Collina Strada: The collection featured lace, ruffles, metals, and silks, creating an enchanted fairytalecore journey. The collection featured a collage-like aesthetic, with delicate blouses, lace embellishments, and tulle ruffles, all designed for both comfort and style, challenging traditional formal wear norms. Collina Strada has managed to strike a perfect balance between strength and femininity, offering pieces that exude confidence. The vibrant yet earthy colors, strong yet adorable designs and the overall elevated aesthetic make this collection a must-see; Collina Strada continues to captivate!

Ralph Lauren:

With a keen eye for detail and a passion for blending tradition with innovation, this collection celebrated a new kind of romance, reflecting the designer’s commitment to personal style over passing trends and showcasing his technical design expertise.

The intriguing denim treatments elevated denim into couture-like pieces, featuring sequins and beads. The clothes were defined by a new, cool, and rustic romance with painterly florals, classic shapes, military jackets, bold colors, corseted vests and a finale of vibrant bias-cut dresses. The finale embraced shiny gold metallics for formal evening wear. Traditional silhouettes meet daring experimentation in color and texture, offering a collection that resonates with contemporary women while retaining enduring appeal.

Proenza Schouler: This resulted in a collection that displayed adaptability through the use of lightweight materials, the introduction of their first-ever denim line, and the incorporation of a brand-new logo. Their runway show highlighted updated classics, underscoring their dedication to creating smart, thoughtfully designed clothes. The collection featured oversized suiting, sculpted beige dresses, and timeless staples for loyal fans. The clothes subtly incorporated the new monogram on clothing and accessories. The pailette-spangled looks in their latest collection brought an edgy twist, making a strong case for experimental everyday styling.

Palomo Spain:

Titled “Cruising in the Rose Garden,” explores the dual nature of humanity, blending animalistic desire with romantic sensuality. Masculine elements seamlessly merge with femininity in the most beautiful possible way. The juxtaposition of traditionally masculine and feminine elements creates a captivating and harmonious blend that challenges conventional fashion norms. Palomo Spain has once again proven their prowess in pushing boundaries and redefining the concept of gender-neutral fashion, making this collection a standout moment in recent times.

The Plaza’s opulent setting, adorned with roses – the collection flaunted decadent feathered camisoles, lace tanks, and provocative denim shorts. The collection features androgynous creations in crisp white, contrasting lace with denim and leather, and embraces floral motifs, challenging traditional gender boundaries and redefining masculine style tropes.

Palomo aimed to explore a more mature, sexualized character while reflecting on his Spanish heritage – Palomo’s decadent and ethereal creations solidified its status as a brand that challenges norms.

Kim Shui: This collection blends Kim Shui’s Asian heritage with a whimsical Italian dream world while maintaining her signature bold style. The collection is a mixed bag, featuring both some truly cute and innovative looks alongside some rather questionable ones. The inconsistency in this collection makes it a confusing experience. One standout element is her line of super sexy, colorful corsets. Shui questions traditional notions of femininity, infusing her designs with vibrant colors, florals and lace to redefine the narrative around ornate aesthetics; showcasing a departure from her signature party-girl style.

Dion Lee: The collection featured hardware-infused ensembles, from corseted bodysuits with wrenches to boots with tool belts, all reflecting Lee’s utility-focused theme while adding a quirky touch. He diversified his design palette with unconventional materials like laminated denim, foiled leather and lace lingerie-like pieces, demonstrating versatility beyond his signature rave-ready attire, providing a more extensive brand wardrobe.

The collection exudes a sense of evolution, with the designer confidently pushing boundaries while staying true to his signature style. The use of innovative materials and architectural silhouettes adds a refreshing dimension to familiar elements.

Ulla Johnson: This collection is a vibrant explosion of color in rich textures, offering an artsy twist to bohemian energy. This eclectic range effortlessly blends ease and elevation, resulting in a strong collection. The incorporation of Brooklyn-based painter Shara Hughes’ work adds an intriguing dimension via the beautifully crafted Surrealist pieces. The show showcased a wide range from ruffled organza dresses to sporty separates, emphasizing sculptural shapes and artistic flair. The collection ventures into new territory by delving into evening wear, offering limited but powerful looks. This collection is a visual feast, offering a fresh and artistic take on boho-chic fashion.

Jason Wu: Jason Wu beautifully embraces the theme of transformation and renewal, as he turns to nature for inspiration. The collection showcases delicate fabric deconstructions that underscore Wu’s exceptional design sensibility and immaculate craftsmanship. Wu aimed for personal and raw expressions in his collection featuring nature-inspired prints and oceanic embroideries, embracing the beauty of imperfection paired with American ease. The use of fluid layering adds depth and dimension, resulting in a sensual and subversive collection. What sets this collection apart is its unapologetic embrace of the beauty of imperfection. Wu seamlessly merges organic elements with high fashion, creating pieces that exude an air of intrigue.

Michael Kors: This collection evokes the joy of vacations with barefoot glamour inspired by icons like Jane Birkin and Sharon Tate. The show, set against Brooklyn’s waterfront, offers vacay-ready outfits! Its neutral palette complemented by delightful pops of pink and lavender. The use of ultra-luxe fabrics and textures adds a sense of opulence to the line. The range features a versatile array of lace dresses, sheer kaftans, chain belts, light knits, swimsuits, relaxed suits, and chiffon gowns; these vacation-ready clothes capture the holiday magic with their relaxed silhouettes. While the holiday magic shines through in the relaxed silhouettes, the collection feels somewhat predictable and repetitive, but it remains true to the Michael Kors brand aesthetic.

Altuzarra: This Altuzarra collection takes an unmistakable darker path, weaving an eerie, haunting and mysterious allure. The luxe clothes are firmly rooted in everyday pragmatism, yet they manage to evoke a sense of rawness and magnificence. The collection featured oversized satin coats, poufy polka dot pieces, relaxed linen dresses and bridal babydoll dresses offering a departure from edgy provocations and a nod to classic elegance. The collection channeled Rosemary Woodhouse and Miuccia Prada, fusing cool minimalism with a touch of unconventional conservatism. The collection exuded a sense of raw beauty and vulnerability, celebrating bold shapes and daring cuts that rework style boundaries.

Brandon Maxwell: This Brandon Maxwell collection exudes an aura of clean, minimal, and effortless sophistication. The commitment to simple silhouettes and sharp tailoring is evident throughout the collection, showcasing a mastery of the art of subtlety by crafting clothes that we genuinely want to wear. With fluid styling featuring versatile maxiskirts, capelike outerwear, draped jersey dresses smart suiting, all accentuated by bold hardware accents. Maxwell elegantly balanced freedom and restraint, relying on its clean lines and impeccable construction. This collection celebrated sensuality, fluidity and evolution while retaining Maxwell’s signature sophistication.

Gabriela Hearst: Gabriela Hearst marries clean shapes and cuts, reflecting a devotion to simplicity and precision. Drawing inspiration from the Druids, the pieces exude an air of mysticism, seamlessly blending timeless staples with intriguing textures. She consistently caters to her discerning clientele with refined, timeless staples in a sophisticated neutral palette, infusing each collection with meaningful inspirations. Her clothes reflect strength and spirituality through protective suiting, artisanal knits and a commitment to sustainability.

Carolina Herrera: Carolina Herrera effortlessly embodies casual daywear with its clean, well-defined shapes and carefully curated soft color palette; also marks a departure from Wes Gordon’s usual extravaganza. Influenced by ’90s fashion editorials and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, offering impactful pieces emphasizing individuality and celebrating the absence of rules. This collection exudes an energetic and confident aura, appealing to the modern woman seeking super feminine yet straightforward elegant clothes. Gordon’s meticulous attention to detail shines through, resulting in a line that seamlessly blends comfort and chic.

Laquan Smith: LaQuan Smith brings together hot girls in a sizzling showcase of high-octane, dangerously sexy clothing. The collection boasts a diverse range of sexy textures, including glossy vinyl, sheer tops, and textured leather, creating a tactile feast for fashion enthusiasts. The futuristic sci-fi edge glamour permeates every piece, from micro-mini skirts to high-slit skirts, sheer bodycon to cargo and chainmail tops, and even cargo jeans and hotpants. Strapless gowns add an elegant touch to this audacious lineup. Delivering bold proportions and statement pieces that captivated the room, embodying a woman who defies conventions.

Tory Burch: This Tory Burch collection effortlessly embodies simple sophistication, offering a refreshing sense of ease for the modern wardrobe. The restrained color palette and relaxed tailoring create a calming yet chic aesthetic. Dynamic layering adds depth and versatility to each ensemble, allowing for seamless transitions between occasions. What sets this collection apart is its exploration of new shapes, artfully crafted with light and airy fabrics. The subverted ’60s influences add a touch of nostalgia resulting in retro-futuristic elements. Despite the added embellishments, Burch’s sense of play and transformation of restrictive elements into possibilities resonated throughout the collection.

Naeem Khan: Titled ‘To India My Love’, this collection is a vibrant tapestry of inspiration drawn from India, offering a homage to the country’s rich colors and craftsmanship. The intricate embroidery and luxe embellishments on each piece showcase impeccable artistry. What truly stands out is how subtle tradition and innovation intertwine, exemplifying an authentic union between the East and the West. The airy, sleek saris stole the show; Additionally, the range of western contemporary silhouettes, inspired by traditional Indian outfits added a modern twist.