We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
Ahluwalia: Ahluwalia FW23 continued to present a fusion of the designer’s Indian-Nigerian heritage and was centered around the music of her youth. A large portion of the collection was inspired by music, with prints, patterns and decorative motifs that communicate the energetic aura of the clothes. Precise details elevate the concept to the next level along with a streetwear-inspired vibe. The Ahluwalia signatures were carefully and subtly included in the garments. The soundwave prints were crafted out of the designer’s favorite songs, a clever yet personal touch. From knit bodycon dresses to denim patchwork pieces this collection had all the design flag bearers of Ahluwalia; a personal favorite was a bright red and pink color-blocked fuzzy coat. The collection had a 90s sporty hip-hop vibe paired with showstopping colors; nostalgia indeed.
Burberry: This collection was Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry; it was surprisingly understated and mature. While we never did find out why Daniel left Bottega Veneta, he did turn Bottega around. And with Ricardo Ticsi’s not so significant contribution to the brand, the Burberry executives need exactly what Daniel did for Bottega. The collection is a major refresh and much-needed revamp for the brand. Burberry has been lost for the last couple of seasons. Daniel doesn’t rely too heavily on the brand’s obvious Britishness but instead takes signatures to present an edgier view. There why are fur-collared trench coats, restrained jewel tones, layered silhouettes, blanket coats and a whole lot of tartans and checks. The presence and thoughtful reimagining of the classic outerwear served as a nod to the brand’s history. Let’s not ignore the fun that comes with this collection, this show was a triumphant sign of what’s to come. Burberry is undoubtedly the talk of the town thanks to its optimistic direction.
Commission: The creative team behind Commission, Jin Kay and Dylan Cao celebrate their tenth season by paying tribute to their home & vibrant city of New York. The clothes were sharp yet comfortable – a Commission classic, balanced perfectly. The styling and layering in this collection were realistic. Some standout items included oversized trenchcoats, impeccably tailored dresses, sporty jackets, baggy sweaters and some sleek satin gowns. The more you look at the clothes you realize they are the opposite of minimal, the clothes are impactful, they make you look at them twice. But the sheer simplicity and relevance that each outfit exudes is remarkable and perhaps the designer’s greatest feat. The small yet meticulous details in the clothes elevate the collection even more.
David Koma: Design elements from the 1930s & 1960s were explored by David Koma to present his vision of the modern woman’s wardrobe. Koma’s mood board for this collection was ruled by Marlene Dietrich and vintage glitz. A Koma collection wouldn’t be complete without splashy celebration wear. The London-based designer is well known for his daring and inventive approach to womenswear, which has come to be associated with incredibly sexy dominating outfits. Koma’s use of color and silhouette is proficient and when paired with the obvious modernity he adds to the garments; it’s a powerhouse combo. Some standout elements in this connection were certain lingerie, statement latex pieces, tuxedo-inspired many dresses, crystal decorated knits, fur stoles, heavy crystal boots, dramatic ruffles and some signature crystal embellishments. The colors exuded royalty, the silhouettes were definitive and the glamour was sensual. All in all a pretty good lineup!
Di Petsa: As I scrolled through this collection a strong sense of joy took over me. I think that is the beauty of Di Petsa. Normal women can see themselves in her clothes because they see themselves on the runway. Her clothes and sensuous, maternal, deeply feminine, exciting, natural, ethereal and they celebrate the womanly body. Honestly what more would you need? This was undoubtedly my favorite collection by the designer. Within this collection, Dimitra Petsa drew inspiration from her Greek ancestry and its old mythologies, particularly the tale of Persephone. This season, the signature Di Petsa technique is presented in fresh ways; Petsa brought her best for her famous wet-look dresses Now adapted in multiple textures and materials. The construction and tailoring featured on the dresses were immaculate too.
Alexdander McQueen: What stands out in this collection is how with sheer subverted tailoring this collection blurs and blends the lines between genders. traditional motifs from both masculine and feminine come together through sensually impeccable craftsmanship. The show notes read “An exploration of beauty and power through tailoring and tailoring fabrics and a focus on cut, proportion and silhouette.” The collections started with some structured menswear-inspired suiting and move gradually to intricately draped and ruffled dresses. There were shimmery fringe dresses, a couple of chunky knitted pieces and an exquisite leather corseted gown. This collection proves McQueen’s longevity and impactful presence in fashion. (also this collection was actually held in Paris)
Dilara Findikoglu: It is thrilling to watch a Dilara Findikoglu show and that thrill is rare these days. She is a designer who motivates people to make positive changes and forces us to rethink what we expect out of fashion. Her work is an example of making an effort to bring out some light from the darkness. Findikoglu’s message is her strongest and her most passionately emotional. Titled ‘Not A Man’s Territory’ each outfit provokes you to look and analyze it. Models conveyed sensuality and vivacity while performing a dramatic choreography -to the sound of stilettos stomping on the floor. From intricate corsets to mohair bikinis, every garment in this look was extraordinary. A couple of closing looks that legit had my heart was a black feathered dress and a dress laden with sharp silverware. Her creative expression has a visceral raw energy. I am living for it!
Erdem: Erdem Moralıoğlu found the inspiration for this collection at his home which was called ‘Home of Hope’ back in Victorian times. The collection features Erdem signatures, like floral prints, poufy sleeves, dramatic ruffles, taffeta skirts, crystal lace gowns and some dramatic trenches. A standout item here was the bright opera gloves with huge ruffles that can be paired with almost any outfit. Fabrics and prints bring the nostalgia in the clothing to life. This collection’s defining characteristics are lovely florals and chic silhouettes. Exactly what you’d expect out of an Erdem collection.
JW Anderson: While talking about this collection Jonathan Anderson says “Looking back is not something I do very often, but occasionally it feels necessary as a way to move forward. The past can be a lens that brings the future into focus.” In typical Anderson fashion, some references called for deeper comprehension. The clothes explain it better than any of us ever could, given the designer’s capacity to force us to think critically and scrutinize everything. Along with his 15-year archives, the inspiration also came from the Scottish dancer and choreographer Michael Clark. There were fuzzy tube tops, sleek trousers, deconstructed sweaters, fur trims, leather miniskirts and plastic textured t-shirts. A personal fav was a brown fur poncho with tentacles. Trenches were present in various forms from massively collared to sleeveless. A lot to like here!
Harris Reed: This collection was a masterclass in dramatic shapes and silhouettes; crafted entirely in black and gold the clothes screamed drama. Every curve, every fold and every embellishment is adding something to the clothes. Reed has climbed his way to the top pretty fast, he has only been around for a couple of years. But his craft says otherwise, his work is filled with minute meticulous details and sensible craftsmanship. The theatrical fantastical energy in his collection always makes it more desirable, this season he took conventional motifs of elegance and elevated them to his picturesque design language. The collection is a stage set to represent Reed’s brilliance, the collection titled ‘All the world’s a stage’.
Molly Goddard: This season for Molly Goddard, it was all about going back to the fundamentals and simplifying things so that her great designs could be recognized at their best. These outfits offered a look at the things she adored as a kid. The designs were elevated with a twist that made them appear more mature. The collection was a complete contrast from last season’s neon-themed spirited clothes. Tulle was omnipresent but toned down; we also see her exploring techniques of fabric manipulation & innovation. The collection was lowkey but built upon maximalist elements and Goddard signatures. One could argue that Fall 2023 is Goddard’s most intimate collection to date. We were able to enjoy Goddard’s thoughtful reimagined nostalgia on the runway.
Matty Bovan: Titled ‘‘DEEP SPACE NYMPHS’ this Matty Bovan Collection is an explosion of color, prints and fabrics over dramatic silhouettes and intriguing styling. A blast of joy takes over while scrolling through the looks. This season the designer decided to go with a more intimate approach but of course, it was filled with his signature extravaganza. Extravaganza might actually be the wrong word to describe his unapologetically unpretentious clothes; there is always a lot going on in each outfit but somehow it is the most pragmatic expression of self and identity. Vogue reported that 90% of his collection was upcycled which is not surprising considering his significant use of deadstock fabrics. There were big sleeves, flowing ribbons, distressed sweaters, statement opera gloves and animal-shaped bags. Living for the outrageous vibe!
Mowalola: This Mowalola left no crumbs. The designer uses New York City as her source of inspiration and parody. She took from classic NYC-reminiscent logos and gave them the provoking Mowalola touch. There were also strong tones of dystopia and the scary side of technology at play here. She emphasizes the concept of man versus machine here; her ability to blend distressing topics with feel-good clothes is powerful and a sign of her shrewd talent. The clothes were provocative not only visually but also metaphorically, each look is sure to be remembered by every person you walk past. There were heavily cutout dresses, cowboy co-ords, ultra-low waist trousers and booty-shorts to name a few. There are also references to black fashion, specifically 90s black fashion. Can’t help but love the clothes.
Nensi Dojaka: I’ve slowly come around to Nensi Dojaka and her designs. Don’t get me wrong her designs for always gorgeous but it took me a while to understand their intricate and unique nature. I was scared it would be another touch & go designer viral moment. She has honed and crafted her signature looks quite early in her career. The flower, the everlasting inspiration of Nensi Dojaka took the lead of the collection this season. Her incorporation of ideas for more women and more body shape is the next crucial step I believe. The clothes were subtly minimal and deeply seductive featuring adorable minidresses, second-skin bodysuits, sequined pieces and dainty elegant gowns.
Richard Quinn: This Richard Quinn collection was a complete 360 from his last show-it was joyful and positive. This season contrasted with a selection of wedding dresses compared to last season’s funeral themed all-black ensembles. The designer’s love for floral prints was evident here but the prints were smaller – A clever step towards establishing his design aesthetic further. This is the correct time for him to dive into and explore his brand. These prints were plastered upon voluminous yet classic silhouettes. An array of 16 ethereal wedding dresses closed the collection; crafted with perfection. This was an extensive lineup that offered something to love for every bride-to-be. These bridal looks featured ornate embellishments, pockets, opera gloves, intricate beading, feathers, dramatic veils and rose adornments among countless details that elevate the collection exponentially. The complex details of the items illustrated the designer’s passion for artisanal craftsmanship.
Roksanda: By creating silhouettes that pulled towards both strength and gentleness, the designer reached a fine balance. The collection emphasizes the value of choosing one’s path and having the confidence to follow it. She drew inspiration from the late Japanese avant-garde artist Atsuko Tanaka, a trailblazing personality who was a part of the Gutai (post-war aesthetic movement). There were some wonderfully styled ensembles – from oversized suiting with gloves to all satin caped gowns. The show closed with 5 surprisingly conceptual looks – foam rings encircled the dresses creating distinctive volumes. This Roksanda show was theatrical, while her clothes objectively were more intriguing last season, this change of pace was interesting.
Simone Rocha: Fashion has always been enthralled by Simone Rocha’s ultra-feminine delicate creations. She has established herself as one of London Fashion Week’s most coveted designers and one of the industry’s most important people. Elements of the signature distinctive style have even trickled down to popular trends. There was an earthy and raw energy present in this show that comes from the inspiration – Lughnasadsə a pagan holiday & Gaelic festival marking the beginning of the harvest season. The clothes demonstrate the designer’s understanding of the power of image and different approaches to creating the same visual identity. With its lux materials, surreal volumes, and exquisite embellishments – the clothes are classic Rocha and super drool-worthy.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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