We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
Altuzarra: This Altuzarra collection is crafted out of dazzling colors and artful tailoring. The silhouettes were lifted from traditional eveningwear and elevated with causal neutral energy. Show notes said the brand wants to ‘takes us on an odyssey through a mythological landscape’ which is an overstatement but it did give us some beautiful garments. The collection is loaded with Grecian inspirations all over. A standout was some ruched bodycon dresses reminiscent of the hyperrealistic statues greek art is known for. We saw fur-lined jackets draped leather gowns, ombre maxis, sleek satin skirts along with dramatic peplums, scarves and collars. This collection also features a lot of amorphous and kaleidoscopic prints. The balance between casual and couture was struck perfectly here, each look was as dramatic as it was relatable.
Anna Sui: Anna Sui creates outfits that could be worn at the Peppermint Lounge back in the 60s, she said ‘That was New York nightlife’. This collection is a peek into the glamorous upscale energy of New York nights. Pink and green became the guiding forces of this collection present in multiple shades and textures. The clothes express a sense of innocent joy and fun that evokes nostalgia like never before. This connection also we choose tiny elements from her own 90s shows and some work by @katerhees & @daisy__chains. There were metallic baby dolls, crushed velvet dresses, mini skirts, fur-decorated jackets, tweed skirt suits and some vintage/trippy accessories. This collection is a great way to reach out to the younger audience with a focus on self-expression and maximalism.
Brandon Maxwell: This Brandon Maxwell collection features clothes with structured tailoring and sleek minimalism. These clever strategies by which Maxwell creates ultra-luxurious themes through his minimalist collection highlight his talent and thoughtfulness. A very wearable and practical set of garments that can be styled for any season; fit for both daytime and evening attire. The collection is comprised of everyday wardrobe staples. Maxwell urges that the collection ‘came from a place of joy’. There were leather dresses, loads of jorts, form-fitted gowns, sleek trenches, peplum tops and fuzzy co-ords. Brandon Maxwell is on a High! (carefully ignoring my personal dislike for jorts)
Carolina Herrera: Wes Gordon loads his clothes with unbelievable glamour and extreme opulence. The clothes were created of extravagant silhouettes, jewel tones, lux embellishments and exquisite craftsmanship. The collection was inspired by ‘Sisi’ The Empress of Austria; the show notes talk more about her “A dazzling figure with her own agency who was unafraid to break rules and stand out, Sisi serves as the starting point for this season, heralding the unapologetic embrace of beauty and high drama”. There were sweeping gowns, structured minidresses, bodycon eveningwear, statement tulle dresses, voluminous ball skirts, and vibrant silk capes; a lot was going on in this collection. There are strong visual references from the 19th-century royal courts but the way they have blended with today’s modern sensibilities is admirable. Gordon and Herrera bring out the best in each other. And this certainly was the best.
Christian Cowan: This collection celebrates Judy Garland and her support of the queer community back in her time. The clothes not only reflect some of Garland’s most iconic looks but also celebrate showgirls, New Year theatre and Old Hollywood. Each look was absolutely drenched in glamour and drama. Megasized feather headpieces, crystal lined dresses, feather-trimmed garments, embellished minidresses and satin suiting among a line of theatrical pieces. Even the simpler looks portrayed subtle elegance with an edge(obviously). Quite a dramatic show by Cowan!
Christian Siriano: For one good collection by Siriano, we have to sit through four forgettable ones. This Christian Siriano was (with all respect) just plain bad. There were unflattering silhouettes, gaudy textures and just horrendous styling. Siriano shines in simplicity, just look at any outfit that didn’t have massive bows or huge flower ruffles. Take a look at the yellow satin co-ord or a couple of minimal black tailored dresses or a white gown with a ruffled neckline. The designer says “We’re calling this Audrey Hepburn’s Rose Garden at 2:00 a.m” but I’m pretty sure Hepburn was not wearing this while I do see the references. There were brocade suits, draped bodycon gowns, dramatic coat dresses and ending with some massive tulle gowns continuing from last season. The collection did have diversity unlike any other show and for that I love him.
Collina Strada: Titled “Please Don’t Eat My Friends” this Hillary Taymour collection is a ray of hope representing the thoughtfulness and talent of next-gen fashion designers. A Collina Strada collection feels like a blend of microtrends that help an individual truly express oneself ranging from fairycore to grungecore to cottagecore. Some highlights were dresses over pants, a foray into evening wear, and super realistic animal face prosthetics from pigs to birds. The guiding force in each Collina Strada is the impeccably stying and intimate layering. The clothes not only satisfy the fashion journalist in me but also the average girl who just wants some cool clothes. The show notes describe the collection’s aim as “this collection strives to honor our inner show pony, who is playful and likes to ruffle feathers, and our inner workhorse, who is reliable, durable, and strangely practical”. I instantly fell in love.
Dion Lee: Hissssss…….Titled ‘Second skin’ this Dion Lee collection is filled with brazen sexuality and provocative silhouettes. Dion Lee expert at contrasting wildness and eroticism; a blend of nature at its best with today’s desire-laden world. Puffer jackets, corset tops, snakeskin miniskirts, ripped denim, inflatable coats, draped skirts, fishnet bodysuits and some ultra-sultry dresses. The designer talks about this thought process of this lineup “We’ve been playing with how to kind of create this ‘shedding,’ like something falling apart, as well as a play on hosiery as your base layer of how we dress with lingerie and intimates”. And with second skin being the primary concept for this season, the layering was on point. The clothes were bold and aggressive and I’m here for it. The designer has done a good job of building upon his aesthetic and finding the right direction for this vision. He has managed to create a distinct recognizable design aesthetic for himself.
Gabriela Hearst: Gabriela Hearst is on a mission to make simply well-crafted wardrobe staples for us. Well, Us meaning wealthy women, I could barely afford a Hearst paper shopping bag. The designer creates cozy clothes that you actually want to wear, they exude luxury and sophistication in each inch. Her anti-trend timeless approach towards design combined with sustainable efforts is a remarkable feat. The inspiration was the Irish architect and furniture designer Eileen Gray who pioneered the Modern Movement in architecture. The rough textures and materials with the soft femininity are well balanced. It serves as a link between the many different ways that one can express femininity. Comfort is the key word here and with that Hearst whips up some contemporary essentials.
Jason Wu: Jason Wu creates some beautiful garments’ a collection filled with elegant timeless dresses. This collection is a perfect blend of toughness and warmth with loads of romantic textures. It complemented the designer’s serene and alluring mood perfectly featuring clothes that exuded sophistication and grace. There was evening wear in all forms, fringed, sheer embellished, asymmetrically draped, black sheer and some elegant silk gowns. Silhouettes ranged from 1920s flappers to classic bodycon hourglass; lux materials added a conundrum of choices for the customers. It is quite a challenge to find a flow in this lineup simply because it is so timeless & safe. While that has always been Wu’s brand he is gradually making it his own. Almost every look was a red carpet moment!
LaQuan Smith: It is quite an achievement that LaQuan Smith has managed to create a recognizable design aesthetic with mere cutouts and bodycon silhouettes. This season also marked the designer’s foray into menswear. This collection featured more focus on tailoring a restrained color palette. There were jumpsuits, low-waist trousers, minidresses, skirt suits, mesh tops and some versatile separates. This season featured Smith’s interpretation of power suiting in sharp tailoring with a sensual twist. The designer said “This season the collection is inspired by evening suiting and retro elegance; sexy sophisticated grandeur with a touch of nostalgia”. A woman wearing Smith’s design will always be the center of attention and as she should be. LaQuan Smith raised the standard once more. He redefines glamour with an audacious attitude. Every outfit exhibited Smith’s craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Michael Kors: Micheal Kors called it ‘Urban Bohemia’. For this show, Michael Kors used a subdued color scheme and monochromatic outfits; the collection was unmistakably influenced by the 1970s. “Growing up in the 1970s,” the designer said, “I was inspired by strong, confident women with their own sense of style. Women like Tina Turner, Gloria Steinem, Yoko Ono and Jane Fonda were a huge influence on me”. This group of outfits exuded sophistication and self-assurance. There were sweeping coats, dramatic capes paired, strong oversized tailoring, knit dresses, bell-bottom trousers, fringe dresses, fishtail skirts and shearling coats among many wardrobe essentials. Kors has always followed the formula of timeless glamour and this collection is a testament to that. There was sharp tailoring, soothing colors, lux knits and subtle sequins; I adore it all.
Prabal Gurung: This collection showcases vivid prints, rich textures and bold colors while blending the lines between south Asian and western fashion. This collection boasts of some sheer lace dresses, power satin pieces, sweeping outerwear, black leather separates and amorphous printed wool knits. The designer talks about Nepal to CR fashion book that I particularly liked. “a mythical place, rich with tradition and spirituality, constantly flowing between silence and patience, yesterday and tomorrow, humanity and the heavens,”. The clothes have hints of masculinity & femininity while aiming to bring in a bit of desi culture to NYFW. Be it the sindoor-filled hairlines, dresses with draping reminiscent of sarees a leather jacket inspired by a Rajasthani blouse. I feel seen & that means a lot.
Proenza Schouler: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez insist that this collection doesn’t have a theme and is simply a line-up of all the clothing essentials they enjoy right now. “It’s a reflection of the women in our lives,” McCollough told Fashionista. There were clean cuts and sharp tailoring along with some very comfortable and relatable styling; we saw velvet dresses, leather dresses, leather skirts and fierce trenches. While this collection did have some sophisticated separates, unfortunately, it wasn’t their best. There almost seems to be a lack of direction and excitement that we usually expect from them. The timing is a bit off because their work for the past couple of seasons has been some of my favourites by the brand. The collection is considerate in that each piece is designed for a woman who requires her wardrobe to be both functional and beautiful. That level of adaptability and simplicity proves to be the saving grace.
The Row: The Row doesn’t follow trends but timelessness. Each look can be worn by any woman at any stage of her life and within the boundaries of any cultural or religious boundaries. How did two ultra-wealthy teen sensations make a truly sensible classic brand; would love to write a book on it someday. But coming to this collection; crafted entirely out of black, white and a hint of beige with overwhelming comforting silhouettes. This collection is for women who enjoy nameless luxury or rather have the luxury of not needing to publicize their retail conquests. Oversized relaxed tailoring defines each garment while the shapes play with traditional proportions. The Row creates a distinctive silhouette of minimal and unparalleled luxury, the clothes help the wearer refine their identity.
Ulla Johnson: Ulla Johnson shows off her skills with color texture and styling this season. Johnson is still as romantic as ever thanks to new approaches to must-have separates and precise tailoring. The elegance came naturally along with a distinct feminine spirit present. Johnson made sure there was plenty of visual interest without being overpowering with too much color/print. We saw a lot of angora sweaters, crochet slips, ruffled dresses, floral jacquard sets, pleated satin halter maxis, deliciously printed midis and a stunning emerald green brocade gown. An expectedly strong collection by Johnson that navigates current trends while building upon the soon-to-be heritage of the brand.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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