We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
Viktor & Rolf: The designer duo’s take on the unexpected every season is an intriguing and thought-provoking activity. Elegant princess-esy tulle ballgowns were turned into gravity-defying art pieces. One gown was turned fully upside down, some at right angles held at the waist or just slightly moved away from the model’s body. Their ability to create a viral moment with simply their clothes without any outrageous conflicting concept is an achievement on its own. The gowns were impeccably out of place; The designer not only put out highly conceptual concepts but also technically excellent pieces. Humor can always be expected out of the always playful and unconventional Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren. The idea was simple but well executed. A feeling of surrealism and excitement takes over while watching the show; that is the Magic of Viktor & Rolf.
Rahul Mishra: A collection by Rahul Mishra is always extra special to me. The designer dives deep into the concept of the ‘Cosmos’. He touches upon the notion of ‘Aham Brahmasmi’ that explores the macrocosmic ideas of the universe with the microcosmic expression of a person. It explores the connection one can have with the universe and an exploration of the higher self. While the only form of spirituality and content I believe in is fashion and a Rahul Mishra collection exemplifies it perfectly. Collection crafted by 1000 artisans, this collection does reflect the undeniable talent and value of the craftsmanship that India offers. Mind-boggling embellishment embroidery and appliques not only give this collection glamour but also dimension. Garments flattered with imaginative landscapes and intricately layered 3D embroidery. The silhouettes range from bodysuits to vast dramatic Mini dresses. It has been a blessing to see Mishra’s journey, How can one not love it?
Alexandre Vauthier: And the award for the ultimate hot girl ultra-chic brand goes to…………Alexandre Vauthier. The signature bold silhouettes and sharp tailoring presented with unabashed sex appeal; the usual Vauthier. The collection was almost all black with lively pops of neon pink orange & green. The statement of this collection were the gigantic faux fur coats along with laser-sharp suiting and mirror like metallic appliques. There were strong-shouldered jackets, sequined bodysuits, badass boots and some neon mini ruffled cocktail dresses. Clothes that could make a woman feel invincible.
Zuhair Murad: The designer always delivers what is expected of him; that being statement-making glamorous eveningwear. The colors are interactive, keep you hooked, and the details never stop engrossing. We saw feathered sleeves, embellished bodices, dramatic capes, mysterious hats and elegant cutouts. Or collection true to his mastery and aesthetic; each look is rent in glam and shimmers. There is a nod to the intoxicating glitz and glam that we all love.
Christian Dior: Maria Grazia Chiuri does like to play with us. For one good collection, we have to power through five tolerable ones. The collection is inspired by Josephine Baker and the Paris of the 1920s. A muted color palette blended with sleek and simple silhouettes do present some graceful eveningwear. We saw a lot of metallic, gold, delicate embroidery, fringe details, cinched coats and delicate pleats. The collection can also be called a minimal and contemporary take on Christian Dior’s rather extravagant creations. MGC’s version of femininity in waves heavily on realistic softened simplicity which oftentimes ends up feeling uninspired and forgettable. While the collection did have some elegant pieces individually but most of them were just not couture worthy
Jean Paul Gaultier: This JPG Couture collection was created by the master – Haider Ackermann. A collection evident in its effort thought and simplicity. A 35-look master class on how to blend your vision with an existing Heritage brand. Haider Ackermann has truly captured the essence of Jean Paul Gaultier and somehow manage to elevate it with his meticulous interpretation. The clothes featured impeccable tailoring innovative silhouettes and sleek draping. The collection provides with a sense of comfort and serenity that is often missing in Couture. The collection manages to blend drama and simplicity in a way that perfectly replicates how Ackermann & Jean Paul Gaultier fuse. Father Ackermann has done it again!
Valentino: Titled “Le Club Couture” this season Pierpaolo Piccioli explores the concept of Couture and clubbing; he tries to conceive a bridge between the two polar universes. While the collection did features some gorgeous pieces it was weak conceptually. The underground, realistic, and society-mirroring feelings that clubs often evoke are far from Valentino. The Valentino hot streak is broken now and this collection is an unfortunate reminder of the same. There is a lack of cohesiveness here; the glamour and & drama that PPP once pioneered & is loved for are missing. 89 looks is a lot and a designer brilliant as PPP doesn’t need excess to put his point across. There was one look that captured the Couture meets club perfectly – and an all-black sheer ruffled Cape dress worn with lingerie-like co-ords underneath. The clothes did have glam but Valentino has done better.
Schiaparelli: Schiaparelli knows how to make a moment and milk it. This time it was hyper-realistic handcrafted animal heads attached to Elegant garments(a lion, a leopard, a wolf). Social media was riled up in offense and defense of these controversy-provoking items won by supermodels. Say anything that you want, but these looks are a testament to the Atelier’s fine craftsmanship. Surrealist elements blended with historic literature (Inferno by Dante) resulted in some shocking spectacles. Daniel Roseberry never shies away from making a statement and the season was extraordinary. The collection featured incredible sharp tailoring softly structured silhouettes and a variety of luxurious adornments. There was Menswear inspired suiting with a feminine touch, dramatic corsets representing perfume bottles, along with a rendition of Dior’s bar jacket. A collection built upon microscopic yet perfectly crafted details it’s a win for fashion fanatics.
Iris Van Herpen: Iris Van Herpen is a designer you can’t help but love! Titled ‘Carte Blanche’ Iris van Herpen collaborated with French artist Julie Gautier for this collection. The simplicity & innovation that she has built her brand and identity upon is visible in each garment. The collection emphasizes movement and fluidity through the intricately constructed clothes. The film conveys feminine strength bravery and resilience through its presentation and garments. The sensual energy seems to be used to demonstrate the strength of the female body and its beauty. With a clear vision and strong execution skills just needs 6 looks to put her point across; that’s what the designer did. An IVH collection makes you think and moves you from within and of course fall in love with the clothes.
Chanel: This collection was inspired by the mythical animal sculptures found inside Gabrielle Chanel. Humor and fun were often associated with Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel, with Virginie Viard the words that come to mind are laughable and funny. While yes the clothes were constructed impeccably with intricate details and craftsmanship the direction was rather hopeless. While I admire her approach to more wearable and realistic Couture items; it simply doesn’t have to be boring. \I would be lying if I didn’t say I liked nothing at all, there were a couple of looks that I liked! The opening look was interesting along with a sheer embroidered gown worn with a tweed overcoat. Even for Viard, this collection was a minimal one, while it wasn’t the best the artistry of the atelier saves it.
Elie Saab: This collection titled “Golden Dawn” celebrates the magnificence of Thailand; Elie Saab is a designer who has a clear vision and knows how to create truly beautiful clothes. The designer has managed to craft a unique & recognizable design aesthetic in a rather traditional fashion department. There were skin-hugging embellished gowns, sheer majestic gowns, regal capes, asymmetrical cutouts and endearing cocktail dresses. These looks were decorated with intricate necklines, detailed embellishments, striking appliqués and some breezy neck scarfs. I can’t talk about this collection without mentioning the sublime men’s couture; neatly tailored and smartly decorated.
Giambattista Valli: A burst of tulle took over the runway for this collection; Romantically colored tulle gowns decorated with bows, flowers feathers and some worn with luxurious capes. Valli now exists for tulle but a smart move would be to truly double down on this signature for Couture and keep RTW separate. The show didn’t really need 43 looks, the job could have been done in max 10 pieces. Quality over quantity is a concept that the designer needs to embrace now more than ever. While some gowns do transport you out of this world into a lux dream of ballgowns heaven. While Valli does make beautiful clothes but it’s time he explores more than tulle.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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