We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
Bora Aksu: Toned down for Fall this bora Aksu collection was simpler than usual. The collection started with a relatively authoritative aesthetic – there were military-style garments featuring crisp tailoring and structured silhouettes. All made and soothing beige and shades of blue! It comes to a close with some signature airy flouncy pastel dresses; fairycore on point. Sophisticated and deeply feminine; this collection is a sure fav for his clientele. Bora Aksu sure knows what he’s doing!
Edward Crutchley: Titled ‘THE ONLY CONSTANT IN LIFE IS CHANGE’ this collection was an exploration into textures, shapes and colors. While the clothes were quintessential Crutchley; dramatic as ever and created for everyone. Inspired by Greek mythology this collection was a lot about more implicit representations than direct references. There was an almost oceanic restrained energy further elevated by the textures that reflected movement. Crutchley’s uniqueness shows up in each garment and for that I’m glad.
Emilia Wickstead: A collection consisting of all the Wickstead signature; soft colors, classic shapes and lux textures. Sophistication drips out of each garment; Wickstead knows how to hit that spot. There were full-skirted gowns, mini cocktail dresses, lux organza dresses and sheer printed dresses. Wickstead has crafted an aesthetic that is completely hers and unusually unique.
Erdem: This lineup showcased some of Erdem’s most intricate and delicate pieces. The designer was inspired by the art restoration process; he & his team studied similar processes at multiple renowned museums and a few landmark projects. This collection featured a respectful tribute to Queen Elizabeth; simple and thoughtful. Historic references blended with contemporary motifs were the highlights in the clothes; tulle overlays, big bows, corsets, shredded hemlines, elaborate embellishments and embroidery. This collection ends up being a wonderful melody of grief, beauty, history, craftsmanship and tenderness.
Alexander McQueen: With this collection, Sarah Burton redefines her work and asserts herself as the mind behind McQueen. The garments were crafted to perfection; the cuts were clean and the tailoring was sublime. Though the collection was primarily made in black there were pops of bold red and blue. In a delicious overload of fabrics and textures, out came some fierce pieces of clothing. The eye used throughout the collection signifies the beginning and uniqueness of humanity along with some thought-provoking imagery taken from Hieronymus Bosch’s ‘The Garden of Earthly Delights’. This collection featured cropped blazers, asymmetrical structured dresses bumsters, knit bodysuits and some pristinely tailored suits. This collection had a haunting charm to it; the kind McQueen is renowned for.
Roksanda: A good Roksanda collection means massive bursts of fabric and color; this collection was that collection. Not only does this collection showcase some signature ensembles by the designer but also dives into the range we can expect. Extravagant dramatic silhouettes sweeping through the runway are nothing but captivating. There were color-blocked structured blazers, drape satin dresses, billowing trenches and lots of rose motifs. A clear focus on movement and escapism through couture-like silhouettes. A collection that exudes true luxury and optimism.
Thebe Magugu: This collection features striking playful silhouettes paired with some vibrant colors and a huge range of textures. Sleekly tailored clothes aim to elevate the individual’s everyday style not only with contemporary design aesthetics but a seamless blend of history and culture. This collection would make one would truly want to wear and live in; there is thoughtfulness behind each piece. There are standout prints, pleated skirts, feathers capes, tailored co-ords and elegant dresses that define this collection in a sea of separates.
Knwls: Crafted with the now brand signatures this collection featured all that we love and expect from KNWLS. The designer is riding hard on the Y2K nostalgia the only question is how long will this last, as is with any trend-focused brand. Even though it was titled ‘glimmer’ the collection reflected a very tough apocalyptic aesthetic. There were plated micro-minis, statement jackets, slinky dresses and ultra sexy cutout tops. Nevertheless, this collection did have some very desirable pieces. The brand is losing its USP because everyone from fast fashion retailers to heritage brands are opting for the early 2000s aesthetic; maybe it’s time for KNWLS to diversify and rule.
Nensi Dojaka: Undeniably the best work by Nensi Dojaka to date. Built upon the rising brand signatures this collection solidifies her vision and design language for the brand. This collection featured ultra-seductive cuts, sleek silhouettes and some delicate construction. Crafted in neutrals and shades of pink in dainty feminine cuts; the dresses were as dreamy as you would hope for! The way the designer has struck the balance between the old + new and crafted a unique design language is commendable. The clothes are fit for today’s Genz IG-focused experimental style kids but carry a sense of timelessness and elegance that is surprising to see by the hands of such a young designer. It has been quite a journey to see the designer grow and it has been worth it.
Molly Goddard: A lot of color and a lot of tulle! Molly Goddard decided to wow us this season after a rather long streak of nothingness. While the designer never really left I would call this collection her comeback. She features some of her well-known techniques with tulle here. A genuine burst of colors took place in the form of explosive tulle skirts and sheer overlays. Apart from tulle, the designer has delved into creating multiple other signatures from heavily ruffled tops to grandma-style dresses; while they haven’t worked that well this collection showcased some of the best. Some of the minimal gowns in the collection were surprisingly elegant. The shapes and cuts were simple and mature but when paired with the designer’s vibrancy and openness they bring clothes to life.
Huishan Zhang: This collection gave us a new sense of lightness and sophistication by the designer. Some daywear looks evoke a flirty business casual energy. There was some expected well-crafted evening wear that Huishan Zhang is known for. He is experimenting and diversifying into more categories and aesthetics which is undoubtedly a smart move business-wise as well as creatively. Some stand out pieces were translucent cardigans, subtly sequined dresses, feathered items and tulle gowns. The almost candy-colored vibrant color palette with timeless silhouettes had to be a definite hit.
Harris Reed: Dramatic like never before and confident as ever! While this wasn’t his best it was a step in the right direction. The designer challenges the conventional outdated guidelines for debutante balls in this collection. He uses traditional motives of feminine dress-making and recreates them more acceptably and inclusively. My only concern was the grossly undone ironing; with outfits this gorgeous you simply can’t have creases. Harris Reed is moving ahead with his demi-couture performative garments ad looks like he is quite good at it.
Halpern: What’s going in at Halpern? Each season there’s a new form of an identity crisis. While it is great that the brand is expanding its horizons and experimenting with aesthetics, the direction is rather muddled. The brand signature sequins sadly made a quick appearance – an incident noticed in a few recent collections. The silhouettes seemed bulky and unflattering; overstyling is a real thing and Halpern proves this pretty often. Halpern, you can do better sweetie!
16Arlington: Titled ‘Forget Me Not‘ this collection did feature some pretty memorable pieces. Y2K core gets refined here with structured silhouettes and stark cuts. Pleasing neutrals in forms of python prints, faux fur, Swarovski crystals and satin trenches. Marco Capaldo showcases his strong vision for the brand which features a sleek seductive girl-on-the-go aesthetic. The clothes balance the line between social media trends and timeless pieces well.
David Koma: David Koma has been on quite a roll with his unapologetic sexy statement-making clothes. A collection that featured oceanic-aquatic references explicitly. Almost couture-like detailing and embellishments elevate the clothes to more than just a designer piece. There were bold motorcycle jackets, feathered mermaid tails, skimpy cutouts, fishhook elements, starfish pasties, fishing net overlays, and some micro bralettes. The way Koma has managed to blend multiple aesthetics and made it his own is commendable. This collection is more lavish than the rest of his work and I’m here for it.
Christopher Kane: What is it about Christopher Kane? His work is always subversive and mostly ambivalent, and yet that’s his defining quality. It is the anticipation of the unknown that makes Kane an LFW powerhouse. You can either love work or be completely indifferent to it; maybe that’s why loving Kane is so thrilling. Each piece invites you to truly think and make something out of it however evident the references might be. This season Kane was inspired by the details of the human anatomy; the references range from ckear vinyl ribs to textbook diagrams. There were layered organza skirts, sheer lace dresses, Regina George-esque boob cutouts and airy lab uniforms. He brings the sexy to science!
Richard Quinn: Richard Quinn pulled together an extra dramatic black funeral-themed series of looks in the wake of Queen Elizabeth’s demise. The man is simply too good. This was a true Quinn collection in all its Glory. The silhouettes were inspired by Queen’s fashion history and were as regally dramatic as they could be. While we all know Quinn is brilliant with color and prints this collection also proves his talent with just one color on the spectrum. The show gradually did on to more signature brand looks; striking colors in unusual silhouettes. While I question the monarchy’s existence often, it is sweet how the queen was one of the most prominent and early supporters of the designer’s work. He has a lot to thank her for and he did that pretty well here.
Yuhan Wang: A flirty feminine take on aviator uniforms was the key highlight of this collection. Dainty translucent printed pieces took over the runway and presented Yuhan Wang’s most memorable collection to date. Florals, which are an important part of Wang’s aesthetic were integrated into many form factors like prints, lace and leather. There were pastel Satin dresses, leather jackets, romantic sheer mini dresses, ultra-sensual separates and some whimsy accessories. The techniques used in this collection work were quite well done; there was immaculate draping and refined second-skin silhouettes.
Simone Rocha: Simone Rocha continues with her playful and ethereal feminine aesthetic with the four core values in this season being “Fragility, remorse, anger, and nature,”. A blend of everyday utilitarian silhouettes with dainty delicate motifs. There were some Rocha classics like floral embroidery, pearl embellishments, dramatic veils, voluminous skirts, flowing ribbons and deconstructed corsets among many that were persistent throughout the collection. This collection hangs well between hard and soft just like any other collection by the designer but in this one, it is beautifully prominent.
Dilara Findikoglu: One of the most remarkable collections this season, Dilara Findikoglu truly killed it. Dark, desirable and sensuous – There aren’t enough words to describe the magnificence of this collection. It was actually quite a surprise, Dilara Findikoglu just unleashed her unmistakable potential. The clothes combine elegance and eerie to showcase some masterfully crafted clothes. Each look carried a raw sensual magnetism while playing around with traditionally feminine and historic clothing motifs. Each look loaded with drama and dark grunge aims to captivate the viewer. There was a bit of cottagecore blended with some intense witchcore among countless other references. It was hauntingly beautiful.
Chet Lo: A sprightly color palette splattered on Chet Lo’s signature spiky sheer garments. The designer is evolving and so is his brand; evidently aiming to capture a larger audience. There were dramatic hats and big balls; a lot to remember! This collection was inspired by his childhood, Buddhist tales and his culture. This was a distinctive collection for Chet Lo’s and I can only imagine an optimistic career.
JW Anderson: This collection made us think about the gradual seamless blend between us and our phones. A deep dive into the inescapable technology in the world of Fashion. Halter neck tops created with keyboard buttons, tropical desktop wallpaper-like photographs plaster on garments, mini dresses wrapped around like plastic bags and some dainty asymmetrical maxis. Surrealism is a major part of Anderson’s design and we saw plenty of it here. Anderson does not only add humor but also real intrigue into concepts. In a creative landscape where everyone is trying hard to be different Anderson manages to do it is the utmost simplicity.
Susan Fang: A blend of delicate fabrics and soothing colors; This Susan Fang show is enchanting! Airy sheer ruffled dresses which are the brand’s signature lead the collection. There were mini skirts and dainty separates broadening the designer’s offering. Fang is riding high on her hyper-feminine flirty aesthetic. Delicate beading and crochet add more sincerity to the garments highlighting the intricate craftsmanship. With this collection, she again reinforces the potential that her clothes have!
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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