All about Haute Couture Fall 2022

by brownfashionagal

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Schiaparelli: Daniel Roseberry is a magician who keeps on serving. He titled ‘ Born Again’, an apt representation of Roseberry’s work for Schiaparelli and he sure knows how to reference archives. A collection provocative yet thoughtful and rooted yet modern. Not so obvious surrealism blends well with the glamorous aesthetic Roseberry has crafted for himself. Some highlights were hand-crafted flowers, gold jewelry, huge ruffles, feathers, statement hats and dreamy corsets. In the end, All that glitters is Schiaparelli.

Jean Paul Gaultier: This time it was Olivier Rousteing was designing for Jean Paul Gaultier. Olivier called it “an open letter to Jean Paul, an open letter of love,”. The references obvious but subdued provided a nice little walk down the memory lane for JPG fanatics; Ranging from perfume bottles, cone breasts, ‘Les Tatouges’ and nautical stripes. The silhouettes were brilliantly constructed and guided by some crafty tailoring. His artful creations at Balmain did prepare him well for this Couture stint.

Chanel: While it did have the usual Virgie Viard hopelessness this couture collection had its moments. When you zoom into the details you see genuine Couture, The fabrics, textures & adornments featured in the clothes were simply stunning. It is often how they are presented where Chanel is lacking recently. The silhouettes were unflattering more so with the usual frumpy styling. Colorful tweeds, sequined suits, black chiffon gowns were some constants in this collection. I did try hard to pick a favorite look in this lineup but I couldn’t. Though I think it’s getting a bit boring to hate on Viard. But…..

Alexandre Vauthier: A collection that truly captures the essence of Vauthier’s work. He sure likes drama but not in performance but in the clothes. Clothes dripping with glam and extravaganza are the epitome of Couture but in a younger funkier way. The silhouettes are so instantly recognizable along with the dramatic materials. He definitely dials up the sexy here and Thank God for that. Sexy is rare in Haute Couture.

Giambattista Valli: It’s been such a long time since I’ve seen a decent collection from Valli. It hurts when even the tulle looks are disappointing. Gaudy silhouettes and just an overall lack of finishing. Extravagant tulle gowns, bow laden dresses, loads of sequins, feathers and crystals. But it did not give Couture.

Iris Van Herpen: For 15 years IVH has been redefining the basics of couture. Designs were quintessentially futuristic and true to the brand. The collection is meant to be a representation of the undeniable blend of digital and physical realities. Craftsmanship is the biggest force here that is always leveraged to perfection. The brand has been game-changing in how we perceive Couture and even fashion tech. Truly avant garde designs and immaculate details bring life to this collection. From the nails to braids there was sophistication in everything.

Christian Dior: Well, it wasn’t the worst Couture by MGC. While I appreciate the simplicity and timelessness in couture but with Dior right now it’s a case of mundane redundancy. But MGC’s stance on simplicity is compelling too;“ When you see something very simple, there is a lot of work inside, but this is possible because the couture clients know what couture means,”. There were some incredible coats and interesting bar suits but that was pretty much it.

Alexis Mabille: “Do you think I’m a diva? Then I am a diva, OK.” This is the quote that ended up inspiring this collection. It was indeed diva-like. It started with mostly black and white looks and progressed to pastel and jewel tones. The silhouettes were elegant as ever made from luxurious fabrics. The signature tuxedo interpretations were quite nice along with some lingerie-like gowns. A sense of whimsy was present throughout the collection and I’m here for it.

Rahul Mishra: Maximalism and glam both amped up to a million. Clothes dipped in gold and the magnificent craftsmanship by artisans. Inspired by a Banyan tree from his ancestral home this collection is called ‘The Tree of Life’. The details, the embroidery, the embellishments and the 3D motifs were some elements that elevate this collection greatly. There were also some looks with colorful flowers, one is a sleeveless flowy gown which is gradually becoming a Mishra silhouette. The cherry on top is how each garment is so deeply rooted in India and its glory.

Balenciaga: Balenciaga Couture! It doesn’t get old to say this! A collection that solidifies Demna’s vision at Couture. Starting off with some authoritative black second-skin neoprene looks paired with black reflective face masks. The collection further delved into more celebrities, glam and power. Hype is the key word at every Balenciaga show, and Demna does his best to milk that mania. Sharp architectural construction and cuts are elevated by sublime tailoring. Balenciaga is surely taking Couture seriously; no drama no and no frills. Just truly beautiful clothes.

Maison Margiela: John Galliano creates drama, creates magic. A story where lovers Count and Hen travel through Arizona and counter various obstacles presented as a play, movie and digitally. Texture rich clothes made with immaculate tailoring and layering were less in number but high in impact. This collection proves yet again Galliano’s eye for imagination and couture.

Armani Prive: This is one of those brands where most collections can look the same but that is the biggest superpower. With simple Armani-esqe silhouettes and classic colors this collection is a blessing to the Armani clientele. Tailored jackets, strapless gowns, relaxed trousers and some gorgeous embellishments were the standouts here. Titled ‘ Petillant’ this collection sure did sparkle.

Charles de Vilmorin: Glad to see someone choosing quality over quantity this Couture week. A sumptuous color palette and eccentric hand-painted illustrations come together to deliver quite a memorable lineup. The silhouettes were very 80s x Picasso were dramatic as ever. An impressive collection for sure.

threeASFOUR: This is the first time I’m writing a digital couture review and let me tell you I’m truly fascinated. Designs will be offered as animated NFTs and were made in collaboration with CG artist Shingo Everard. Unique and on the way to redefining couture. Futuristic would be a word too underwhelming for this collection; Revolutionary? Yes.

Fendi: Inspired by Kyoto, Rome and Paris this collection had a little bit of everything. It was quiet and understand and I believe Kim Jones hoped it would be. Turning simplicity into strength is often a productive move that requires strong foundations which Fendi has but Fendi Couture lacks (the latter might be true for Kim Jones too). The clothes sure we’re promising and a step up from the last collection. Relaxed silhouettes, soft colors and stunning decorations played the primary roles here. Better than before but yet a long way to go.

Viktor & Rolf: It is a crime how underrated Viktor and Rolf are. This collection is a brilliant play on the suit necklines using the structure & volumes. Dramatic silhouettes created with sharp tailoring and experimental cuts. Literal construction & reconstruction on the runway; the designers come up and modify a jacket and then the rest of the looks come out with similar transformations. A collection to remember indeed.

Valentino: There were spectacular colors, statement silhouettes and gorgeous details. The craftsmanship was exquisite and deserves appreciation to the moon. There were Phillip Treacy headpieces, rose motifs, feathered coats, sheer sequined gowns and a whole lot of bows. Star studded front row, Italian sunsets and Spanish architecture all complement a colorful lineup of lux clothes. While we could have done with a lesser number of looks, Pierpaolo Piccioli did not disappoint.

Elie Saab: This was actually a pretty gorgeous Elie Saab collection. A classic color palette and elegant silhouettes, all created with excruciatingly beautiful details. Among mostly black and some pretty shades of nude and golden there were some statement red gowns. And we got Men’s Couture too! There were sheer embellished gowns, feathered trains, huge ruffles sleeves, dramatic coats and loads of sequins. This collection was all glam & glitter.