All about New York Fashion Week Fall 2022

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by brownfashionagal

Zimmermann: This Zimmermann collection plays around with the concept of astrology. While this brand is a summer favorite, the designs don’t quite translate to winter wear. The styling seems often frumpy and overdone. The floral prints do stand out along with the brilliant use of appliques. It is quite a challenge to make details your signatures but Zimmermann is doing it quite well.

Prabal Gurung: Jewel tones, loads of sequins and relatively skimpy cutouts this collection was almost giving 00s Cavalli x Versace. Subtle tie-dye looks and floral looks featuring Nepal’s national flower were quite sweet. Immaculately draped satin shirts and vivid sequinned co-ords stood out. The embroidered suits could have been more appealing if tailored more precisely. But Gurung did not disappoint.

Jason Wu: With romantic colors, sophisticated lux gowns and pretty neat tailoring. Wu created some dreamy clothes – retro and yet deeply suited for today’s woman. Gowns with almost couture-like shapes and dresses carrying Halston era elegance. He really is the quintessential American designer. With each collection, he moves closer to the likes of Oscar de la Renta, Herrera and Ralph Lauren. He truly does make good clothes.

Tory Burch: Since her spring 2022 collection, I have had a special interest in Burch’s work. Her clothes this season were deeply American and truly personal. Utility takes the front seat here complimented by a funky almost independent aesthetic. There are glimpses of a lot of muddled references yet it all comes together wholesome as ever. It’s fashion for a woman who probably doesn’t care about it too much and still rocks every look.

Altuzarra: A collection quite thoughtful yet daring, Altuzarra has struck the perfect balance. Leather micro pleated skirts, elegant knit dresses, shearling collared trenches and some very savvy tailoring moments. The highlight was the striking tie-dye looks continuing from the last collection; the blend of tie-dye with ethnic prints and refined colors brings together strong pieces. The collection ended with some Paco Rabbane-ish looks; Shielding the models through an army of huge shiny paillettes.

Frederick Anderson: Most of the looks in this collection felt very dated – it was giving 2014 and trust me that is not a time we wanna go back to fashion-wise. There were some sensible knit moments, almost cute dresses and one stunning black embellished sheer dress. The styling here was questionable along with the tedious color palate. Not the best but not the worst his fall 2022.

Carolina Herrera: Wes Gordon sure knows how to make beautiful clothes; this collection was all Herrera Heritage. One of the more seductive collections Gordon has created, as seen in strapless corseted plunging necklines throughout. A lively lineup build upon passionate colors and brand trademarks. Pretty florals, bow motifs, signature sleeves, and tulle skirts paired with retro silhouettes. This was the right step towards Herrera’s dominance.

Coach: This coach collection was quite ‘regular’ but I believe that is the charm of it. Study outerwear and pretty babydoll dresses were pretty much the highlights of this collection. Graffiti splashed leather trenches were quite nice and veryyyy New York. This wasn’t anything remotely interesting but I imagine it’ll sell well.

Ulla Johnson: With unusually intriguing prints, matured silhouettes and somewhat overdone colors, this wasn’t the best collection by Ulla Johnson but glad to see a bit more experimental risque looks by the brand. While the styling in this collection seemed busy at times, the items individually were quite nice and extremely wearable. The knits are as always gorgeous – beautifully detailed in pretty earthy colors. A chic collection overall.

Tom Ford: This look book was dropped midst of Paris Fashion Week but NYFW is his regular so here we are. Lush colors, luxurious fabrics and sophisticated silhouettes; this collection was all the glam and drama we didn’t know we needed. Ford is the only one who can make solid colorful leggings look hot (do you remember the horrendous Chanel leggings). Every item was dripping with luxe, all in all Tom Ford won!

Oscar de la Renta: Fun, romantic and fabulous! There is no mincing words when it comes to ODLR; they have been pretty much killing it lately. This collection had everything one could ask for. Divine daywear with oversized gingham and pretty florals, scrumptious velvety dresses, sequined minidresses among many pretty pieces. ODLR knows how to serve and they did!

PH5: This collection was inspired by billionaires aiming to explore new alternative planets in case we basically destroy earth. Here the clothes take on a space-age galactic approach here, not only in the visual presentation but also in the technically proficient clothes. The brand’s signature knits get more variations in a range of textured knits and muted colors. The brand seems to be doing well exploring the design language and maintaining its fun hi-tech identity.

Michael Kors: Extremely Glam and refined beyond imagination this collection is one everyone can just fall in love with. Pieces you’d need to build your wardrobe whatever your aesthetic might be. “There’s not a single full-on evening look that’s not as easy as a T-shirt,” Micheal Kors told Vogue highlighting the very obvious wearability of each look. Tailored to perfection, styled elegantly this collection was a blueprint of classic American glam style

Laquan Smith: Uber-sexy cuts, body hugging silhouettes, bold colors this collection was Smith at his best. Extreme micro-skirts, plunging necks and high legged bodysuits it was all for a very veryyyy hot girl (that’s basically anyone who wants to wear it). There were some decent suits and knitwear moments too. This Laquan show made me like Julia Fox so that’s an achievement on its own and this was quite a hot revenge dress moment for her.

Gabriela Hearst: Hearst, the current flagbearer of sustainability in fashion does it again. Her clothes are not just made the right way but are indeed beautiful. Colorful statement knits, bold trenches, comfortable suiting all in earthy colors and natural textures. Hearst has found the perfect balance between conscious and fashion. And I stan.

Dion Lee: Utilitarian outerwear, architectural cuts and immaculate construction were the highlights of this collection. Not sure if this was based on an apocalyptic or hi-tech futuristic approach but the balance to today was struck quite well. Detachable gloves/sleeves and sheer laced bodysuits were some very intriguing items in this lineup. The collection had some satisfying callbacks and explorations to a lot of the brand’s previous work too.

Area: This one is for all the showgirls or just the ones who are one without a stage. Royal vibrant colors loaded with countless crystals these looks make one wanna run away with a wannabe dance troupe. Glorious accessories and headgear ranging from gold butterflies to feather hats. While sculptural crystal gowns were a true couture moment indeed.b

Commission: I genuinely deserve a commission for all the word of mouth marketing I’ve been doing for them. Fuzzy knits, seductive asymmetrical dresses, pleated skirts and statement outerwear were just some highlights here. All American done the not-so-American way; case in point the energy this collection carries is similar to Raf Simon’s debut for Calvin Klein( more elegant though).

Brandon Maxwell: Big News! I didn’t like a Brandon Maxwell collection. While this was quite a heartfelt collection, an ode to his childhood and grandmother but that doesn’t excuse the dull lineup. Antique colors and motifs dominated this collection along with some frumpy silhouettes. Yes, there were some nice pieces – densely pleated full skirts, chunky knits and a very stunning off-white dress with an exquisite sweetheart neckline. The rest was some stuff I don’t wanna remember.

Christian Siriano: Enough words don’t exist for me to describe how disappointing this collection was, well not that I was expecting much but for a lack of a respectful word let’s call it a disappointment. Mostly blue this collection did offer a range of silhouettes and textures. The shiny PVC looks – well no actually let’s ignore them for the sake of my mental health. The prints looked like cheap curtains. There was some shabby eveningwear and the collection ended with some enormous gowns. The Victorians who inspired this collection are shedding tears as the models walked down the runway.

Proenza Schouler: This collection was luxe and full of strength; an everyday collection for a busy woman. This circular skirt silhouette, constant throughout was a defining moment. Occasional pops of colors were absolutely delightful. The suits had sharp tailoring and perfectly cinched waists. This Proenza ruching style is becoming a signature and I’m very much here of it. With neat construction, experimental silhouettes and refined tailoring this collection is surely a hit.

Kim Shui: A lot of tweed and fur this season for Kim Shui along with the signature sexy minidresses. This was a new territory for the brand. I am very fascinated by this experimentation but this should be a fleeting aesthetic shift( or at least I hope so). Multiple variations of sheer crochet-like dresses added some zing to the lineup. The finale looks – all sheer and black was Kim Shui in her true element!

Christian Cowan: One of the most tolerable Christians of NYFW. All the looks were extra glam and extra exuberant and yet underwhelming. Feathers, sequins, slits and trains this collection had a wide range of party numbers for a New York party girl. Cowan called it the ‘highest high-fashion show ever’ cause it was held at the One World Observatory; idk about that but it was a nice background.