All about London Fashion Week Fall 2022

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by brownfashionagal

Alexander McQueen: Sarah Burton does bring a deep sense of elegance and nostalgia. Strong vibrant colors, neat cuts, ruffle explosions and some virtuous daywear. This collection was less dark somehow more positive even if it was all about New York. A graphic suit throwback to Shalom Harlow’s iconic spring 1999 McQueen moment was a decent tribute but nothing compared to what that performance made us feel. A very McQueen collection indeed, all thanks to mushrooms(?).

Simone Rocha: Rocha is on a success high and it shows. With each collection, the brand becomes stronger, memorable and innovative. This is giving folklore meets McQueen; clearly TikTok needs to help me name this aesthetic. Big ruffles, flouncy layers, exaggerated silhouettes; from biker jackets to sheer dresses this collection said rangeee. Sometimes gloomy, sometimes romantic – the balance is crucial and done to perfection.

Connor Ives: This is a runway debut worth the wait. Fun colors, slinky Y2K silhouettes and lux materials bring together quite an energetic collection. A master tailoring moment was a black suit with a sharp Mandarin neck. The prints were trippy, the vibe was seductive and those asymmetrical slip dresses would flatter anyone who wears them. I have this desire to be the designer who does it all,” Connor told WWD and might I say it’s happening already

Burberry: Riccardo Tisci seems to have found his feet at Burberry, this was undoubtedly one of his most fascinating collections. Dominating clothes stripped down to extreme essentials. Impactful layering, restrained colors and just the right amount of experimentation ( which Tisci has overdone in the past). Trenchcoat tuned into ball gowns, pink corsets, polka dots, embellishments, fur, stripes, headgears.. phew this collection had a lot and it was all very Burberry. All without relying on the Burberry check.

Victoria Beckham: Miss Beckham is kinda killing it? This collection did have some pretty nice pieces. Refined tailoring, intriguing prints and very seductive silhouettes. An all logo monochrome look was all too like Gucci; visually and the logo craze indulgence. A quilted purple hoodie was an exciting surprise; saw a bit more sportswear-inspired clothes. VB is turning around and I’m here for it. Let’s hope people turn too……towards her stores

Christopher Kane: Christopher Kane shows do one make wonder, not in a deep way about social justice or religious politics but in a more fashion-centric way. He makes you think about clothes. Clothes this time presented against a bright backdrop. Kane does sexy in a non-obvious, almost in an intellectual way. Here the key element was the use of sheer and often the lack of transparency. Colors mostly black & white presented in a range of textures and cut in risqué ways. While this wasn’t his best it was Kane all the way.

Supriya Lele: After featuring in the Vogue India’s first cover by Megha Kapoor, Supriya Lele has been on a roll. This collection all sorts of sexy featuring the soon-to-be signatures of the brand; the asymmetrical cuts, the almost careless draping, the seductive ruching and a lot of sheer. Miniskirts with detachable pockets were the big moment here. Victoria Beckham who basically runs the exact opposite aesthetic said “She is the epitome of cool London fashion right now” and she has never been more right.

Raf Simons: Almost all black, oversized silhouettes and just the right amount of pretentious. This Simons collection features a wide, wideeee range of fabrics, bright pops of colors and a lot of ground for interpretation. Accessories were a standout in this collection from the skeleton earrings to mohair hats. Favorites were statement glossy coats and colorful satin trails.

Roksanda: The collection started with some delicately tailored suits and outerwear with nuanced layering and sophisticated colors. With each look the clothes got more out of touch, less Roksanda and more brilliant. Gigantic puffer silhouette elevated and proved that this brand is not just another with pretty dresses. Sportswear esque details with couture-like silhouettes made in collaboration with Fila gave LFW some much needed drama; contemporary drama might I say.

Emilia Wickstead: With each collection, Wickstead seems to get more romantic. Exquisite tailoring paired with classic silhouettes brings life to the contemporary fairy tale aesthetic that the brand exemplifies. The perfect looks to get photographed somewhere in Europe. Though this one was one of the more sensual ones, passionate colors and chic cuts exude indulgence. A standout dress was a blue printed dress with underboob cutouts was quite a moment; so was a gold roughly sequined dress with a stole.

David Koma: Well, hurts to say but this wasn’t a good Koma collection. Even with sportier elements and crystal both Koma signatures, this didn’t give anything. Filled with British references from football to crown jewels. There was a noticeable focus on ‘cool girl’ outerwear covering the slinky shiny minidresses. The completely crystal loaded polo dress was a look to remember and a guilty personal favorite.

Ahluwalia: From Bollywood and Nollywood, this collection was quite a moment. A collection deeply expressive yet personal featured dramatic characters, cinematic colors and some striking prints. A collection proving the pioneer Ahluwalia is in the current fashion scene; spearheading true relatability and inclusiveness. Clothes quite seductive, clothes rather market worthy – Has she struck the holy balance already? Hopefully Yes.

16Arlington: A collection destined to be a social media fav; Y2K x 90s at its best. Mini slinky cuts, retro colors and a load of textures add salt to the ‘trendy’ trends that rule tiktok. The lineup is a long list of glamorous staples that make you wanna take a thousand selfies in a lux hotel bathroom. Fun and fancy are the keywords defining this new age brand. Sheer sequined gowns, tailored leather, draped cutouts were among many highlights.

Halpern: Halpern treads the line between great and bad very closely, so unfortunately this collection leans towards the latter. Surprisingly among all the shimmer and glam the most remarkable looks were all plain and white. A white gown with heavy gold embellished details was stunning with the perfect balance between extravagance and minimalism. Halpern is really having some major fringe moments which makes sense cause it fits perfectly into their design language and aesthetic.

Richard Quinn: Classic Quinn prints paired with couture silhouettes; this collection should have been one for the books. But it wasn’t, what was off about this. With each collection, the vivid flower prints seems to be now a form of pigeonhole situation. While yes the looks were undoubtedly gorgeous. Balenciaga like shapes, retro-style corsets, big bigggg hats and a lot of (unintentional) Islamic references.

Huishan Zhang: Zhang gives a revamped Carolina Herrera vibe; mostly cause of the similar demographic. I do believe his work might be more suited for New York or Paris but for now, let’s swoon here in LFW. In vibrant pinks and statement reds, this collection did have some hard-hitting lux pieces. The opening look – an almost neon pink coat with black contrast lines was quite gorgeous, another favorite was a red sequined dress with draped sleeves. The bridal look was quite pretty and does make me wonder… will Zhang do better as a bridal designer?

Matty Bovan: Titled ‘Cyclone’ this collection was all about America, the title indeed is perfect (though Bovan wasn’t thinking what I am). Exploding silhouettes, kaleidoscopic colors and a lot of stereotypical USA signatures done rather tastefully. Matty Bovan has always been the ideal representation of the funky independent London designer but let’s see how long can the brand sustain itself without going traditionally mainstream.

Edward Crutchley: Now this is the aesthetic I live for! Edward Crutchley is now a fav that I’ll look for every fashion week. A white knit dress with circles cutouts opened the show set the tone for a queer, fun and important collection. A softly tailored lavender suit was a favorite along with an all-black moment – velvet mini top & skirt worn under a delicious leather jacket. Crushed velvet gowns in pinks and purples are the ultimate definition of the 80s, glam and fashun.

Molly Goddard: This did feel like quiet and underwhelming collection to me while yes there were some very good looks, and the pieces individually were quite as well, it was the styling that threw the whole collection off. The casual grandma aesthetic was frumpier than ever and the lack of tulle was disappointing. There was some interesting usage of tulle but not strong enough.

Nensi Dojaka: Probably the best Dojaka lineup yet. Maybe it’s the LVMH price impact but there was an added refinement and luxe in this collection. The cuts were neater and the layering was more delicate than ever. From minidresses to suits, the brand’s signatures were present throughout. The tailoring was rather remarkable along with newer additions to the band design aesthetic.

Bora Aksu: Darker and restrained colors (well that for Bora Aksu) paired with the usual romantic vintage silhouettes of the brand. While this was a relatively toned-down collection featuring everyday lux dresses at is best, the kind of dresses at your wear to visit a lonesome French castle. Glistening fabrics, varied textures and divine details bring together a splendid collection for the Bora Aksu clientele.