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Max Mara: Max Mara does put out some gorgeous fall collections, of course they are winterwear experts. There were blacks, whites, a lot of tan along its sister shades featuring some sumptuous fabrics and textures. The silhouettes almost splendidly assertive were a testament to the brand’s timeless elegance. The clothes were inspired by the Alps and Swiss legend Sophie Taeuber-Arp and the collection was rightfully titled “Modernist Magic”.
Blumarine: Blumarine surfing hard on the Y2K trend, the whole point of the brand right now is butterfly tops and itsy bitsy skirts. But my concern remains the same, what’s the plan when 00s rage is over? Rise & fall? Seems that way to me. But the clothes were rather sensational. Nicola Brognano created a sexier Blumarine woman; the ultimate definition of Y2K HOT GIRL. Colors were bolder, second-skin catsuits, satin minis, butterfly tops were deliciously hot but the highlights were ruched dresses in all colors and cuts.
Alberta Ferretti: This collection featured some gorgeous statement outerwear, mostly in neutral shades as the whole collection was pretty restrained in color. The drama of Italian fashion was evident in the lux textures and their bold combinations. This collection had a lot going on – Silver Chunky knitted sweaters, velvet suits, metallic gowns, sequined pants and some flowy chiffon dresses. The styling felt heavy and some looked dated but Ferretti managed to pull through credit to the sheer optimism that seared through.
Bottega Veneta: Clean, understated and ultra chic. This collection was Matthieu Blazy’s debut for Bottega Veneta. Drool-worthy textures, subdued colors and simple styling – I can already say that this one is a success. Thigh-high boots and skirts bring back the classic intrecciato woven pattern while venturing into new items. While this collection might not be as trendy and exciting as some ‘previous’ collections it was Bottega in all true senses. There were some magnificent fur coats and leather suits, also some leather pants that looked like denim. Fringe lined leather skirts were quite nice and some rather intriguing silver sequined dresses. There were some tempting platform heels and thankfully no more green. A bold move with a clear focus on clothes instead of accessories, not to say bags and shoes were bad but were overpowered by the clothes. An intriguing collection, a blazing debut indeed.
Diesel: Glenn Martens is actually killing it. Avant-garde denim interpretations included huge fur coats, mini skirts, layered trenches among some upgraded basics. Belt like mini skirts were dangerously hot and extra memorable. Distressed denim at unusual places, metallic monochrome co-ords and trompe l’oeil moments were some favs here. Martens has really turned around the Diesel design aesthetic for good.
Dundas: Sexy amped up to sexier with strategic seductive cutouts, numerous fabrics, subtle sequins and cow prints among many. A decent collection but rather forgettable with nothing noteworthy. Fav look was a pair of gold embellished pajama set; one of the few looks to strike the right balance between comfy and chic.
Etro: As a south Asian it is always quite a challenge to talk about a brand built on ✨ cultural appropriation ✨. While viewing this collection I realized I’ve never truly liked an Etro collection. Every look I see especially the prints(which are the brand signature) reminds me of stuff I see on the Delhi street every other day. In this collection, Etro continues to eye a younger audience with bra tops and sheer day dresses. Some statement pieces included monochrome velvet suits, poufy knitwear and some eye-catching outerwear
Fendi: Revisiting the 00s archives, Kim Jones did put out a decent collection. Transparent yet elegant; The lingerie pieces were shown from a contemporary refined perspective, well of course Lagerfeld did it 20 years back. Excellently tailored jackets and skirts dove back into the Fendi DNA. The standout of this collection was some gorgeous corseted tops with peplum waists, especially one made in tan leather. But we are yet to see something other than archive revamps and collabs from Kim Jones.
Gucci: It is quite a bold motive to call your collection “Exquisite Gucci.” but Alessandro Michele deserves that. Some excellently tailored suits, athleisure-loaded dresses and delicious fur coats were the superstars of this lineup. All looks double down on the gender fluidity Michele has curated for Gucci. The Adidas collection was unnecessary and bland, if it was an emerging brand id be happy for them but Gucci does not need that coin. The homemade thrifted styling aesthetic crafted by Gucci becomes more refined here.
Jil Sander: Minimalism becomes not so minimal with Lucie and Luke Meier, there is always a sense of detailed thoughtfulness in their work. Pleasing neutrals colors, rich textures and refined styling. The silhouettes were simply simp worthy this season. Wool skirt suits, flowy printed midis, luxurious knits and lace dresses were some stunning pieces here.
Marni: Well, I wasn’t there but turns out the Marni show to quote WWD was ‘a shitshow’.About the clothes, these were clothes reflecting the mending and reworking concepts we have seen more than ever recently. The styling was brave and the textures were rugged almost worn down. The idea of a performance runway moment felt short here, the video itself was drag to watch. Was this a backfire, a failed effort of trying to be ‘creative’. Marni’s last runway show was quite brilliant and was truly exciting towards the potential of the brand and Risso’s vision. Hope to see more of that soon.
Missoni: Missoni is trying hard to be hot and this one was kind of cute. Statement bathrobes, slinky dresses, classic sweaters; most looks featured super soft and homely tailoring paired with relaxed silhouettes. Streetwear mixed with nostalgic brand signatures, this collection was significantly better than last season’s debacle.
MM6 Maison Margiela: Timeless silhouettes, luxurious fabrics and exquisite tailoring come together to give us some drool-worthy clothes. Super lux, almost utilitarian – A collection focused on simply the clothes one would want to wear. And this collection did give me a coat I’ll dream about for a while; a sleeveless deep teal leather coat.
Moschino: The most theatrical show of the season. The way Jeremy Scott presented a blend of surrealism and camp is truly magical. It all started with a sketch of a cabinet, later modeled by Gigi Hadid on the runway. This collection featured everything you could find in a house( a very old money vintage house) – cuckoo clock, cabinets, huge golden harps, mirrors, drawers lampshade and gorgeous gorgeous upholstery. The details are highlights always; the gold details, couture-like accessories and dramatic Stephen Jones headpieces. Complete review here
No. 21: The hero of this collection was the sublime tailoring and the classic pieces one would cherish. A seductive feminine lux energy is evident in the clothes. Sheer knits, simplified corsets, tropical prints, relaxed trousers and structured blazers were some moments to remember. A fav was a nude fringed paillette laden asymmetrical dress.
Prada: This Prada collection is when my love affair with that Pink trench coat began and I am not mad. A collection inspired by the importance of each everyday moment. White tank tops, sheer skirts, oversized nylon bomber jackets, ‘ugly’ printed sweaters and statement leather jackets were some very striking items here. Tailoring was immaculate; pleated skirts, nipped-waisted blazers, structured dresses. Miuccia & Simons seem to be excuse my language rocking it, it’s always a good time to be a Prada girl. Powerful silhouettes take this collection in a newer bolder direction and the Prada ‘fun’ is very much there.
Reem Acra: This ummm was a questionable collection, as much as I’d like to give it this a pass. Silhouettes felt dated and textures were frumpy, every look seems unflattering. Embellished velvet hats and leather gloves add nothing to the lineup.
Roberto Cavalli: Cavalli has always been an extreme sort of brand, it’s a lot to take it. Fausto Puglisi amps up the extreme significantly. The resurgence of Uber sexy and Y2K aesthetics have been a big support to the brand’s comeback. Dramatic capes, skimpy bodysuits and sultry minidresses all in flashy prints and colors. Cutout overload, floral appliques, green plaid and some statement jewelry there was something for everyone. Styling was a bit questionable, but very on-brand. While this wasn’t my fav Puglisi collection, I appreciate it for what it is.
Salvatore Ferragamo: Designed by the in-house team, this collection an archetype of a Ferragamo collection – classic & lux. The tailoring of course was excellent, featured in deconstructed casuals with effortless layering. Delicate ruffles, detailed sweaters, knit bodysuits and some divine accessories were some highlights. While Ferragamo has done better this, the experimentation was interesting.
Sunnei: Comforting colors and lively textures, Sunnei strikes the balance between sporty and elegant. Models had a mini workout session at Sunnei this season. Let me tell you this was one of the funniest yet intriguing runway presentations this season. This is the perfect way to dive deeper into the sporty aesthetic they have been exploring. Big silhouettes and flowy tailoring elevate the clothes along with the impeccably relevant styling.
Versace: I can only think of Yasmeen Ghauri in that yellow corset dress, which I’m convinced must have been on Versace’s moodboards. It was all corsets and bustiers here this time. I’m considerably shocked at how disappointing this collection was. There were miniskirts, shoulder pads, latex boots, puffer coats, glitter houndstooth, cargo pants and loads more. Clearly, this got very messy very fast. Brownie points to Versace providing seductive yet modest looks; sexed-up items that don’t rely on revealing skin. But this show was not giving Versace.
Vivietta: And the Vivietta woman is pole dancing. Women wrapped around poles wore the archetype Vivietta looks with some intense style choices. My favorites were high vinyl boots and heart-covered breasts. Innocent girlish charms were paired with seductive sex references, Oh and did I mention ‘Lolita’ was the inspiration for this collection. As problematic as that book was the collection we can still deal with.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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