All about Haute Couture Spring 2022

by brownfashionagal

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Schiaparelli: Back to the runway Daniel Roseberry continues doing divine work at Schiaparelli. Extravagant luxe jewelry, sensational silhouettes and unfiltered surrealism were the clear defining points of this collection. Made in almost all black loaded with gold detailing and jewelry; the beauty wasn’t so obvious but hidden in the details. Multiple recreations of Elsa Schiaparelli’s legendary pieces were done with all the sincerity one would expect. A delightful sequined interpretation of the Cardin Parabolic Gown. Bags loaded with that signature surrealism: from planets to human faces. Conical breasts to gold jeweled gloves the collection was abundant in inspirations and it is a reminder of Daniel Roseberry’s sensibility and brilliance. Stripped down of the usual power elements this collection was more elegant, more feminine and soberer.

Dior: Does Beauty lie in simplicity? Maria Grazia sure thinks so. A muted color palette pared down to simple luxe silhouettes and materials. Maria Grazia sure does know how to create objectively beautiful clothes. The minimal pristineness is what was most attractive here; couture doesn’t always have to be dramatic. But does it mean it has to be toned down to levels so drastic. Dior Couture has always been THE MOMENT and for a while now it has been insignificant at best. I can’t complain that the clothes are not good, tailoring has never been so exquisite. Neatly cut suits and jackets, flawlessly draped gowns, intricate embellishments ruled this collection. All in all elegant clothes, boring couture. A significant highlight was the backdrop was covered in handmade embroidered tapestries crafted in collaboration with Indian luxury craft house Chanakya. The artists behind the artwork were Madhvi and Manu Parekh.

Alexandre Vauthier: To be an Alexandre Vauthier girl is to be the ultimate fashion girl. The collection exudes sensuality just like any other Vauthier collection. A lot of black, silver, bold red and that almost signature brand teal. Glitzy gowns were a major hit here reflecting the optimism of dressing up. This collection offered quite a range- from dramatically shouldered power suits to sexy dainty dresses. This range is exemplified in the contrast of the two equally sexy yet opposite silhouettes – A black velvet catsuit work with a dramatic feathered cape to a barely-there red ruffled minidress. Looks that truly hit home are 2 luxurious silver heavily mirrored dresses with matching boots- very modern, very couture and very Vauthier

Chanel: A rather modest collection; intricate embroidery and somber colors elevated the clothes to new heights. Even among awkward silhouettes and outlandish styling, there were some surprisingly elegant looks. Underwhelming? Yes, it was but I’m concerned this is as good as it gets.

Alexis Mabille: A demure color pallate, classic Mabille elements and silhouettes from second-skin bodysuits to sweatshirt like gowns. A gown lined with bows from top to bottom reflects the human spine but much prettier. Intricate ruffles, neat pleats and seductive lace elevated the looks to a new level. The collection ended with a rather theatrical cape shaped like a bow somehow in the most subtle way.

Ronald Van Der Kemp: Upcycled Couture at its best, Ronald van der Kemp wows once again. There were a lot of intriguing elements here; mosaic textures, dripping watercolor, resin-covered flower petals, carefully lined riffles, luxe metallic textures and some very impeccable tailoring. Dramatic silhouettes ranging from classics to ultra-contemporary. An understated champion of sustainability and true Couture

Valentino: The balance between the daywear and evening wear was struck perfectly. I think Pierpaolo Piccioli has found his sweet spot Valentino where he can experiment on his prominent yet inventive aesthetic. The focus on Men’s Couture is wise and is done quite well. Even among the beautiful dramatic gowns, the winner of this collection was the very sober and elegant menswear. Bonus points diversity on the runway which is rarely seen in couture. While yes this collection did have some stunning clothes it felt a little off.

Rahul Mishra: Rahul Mishra transports us to a fantasy land with this ‘Enchanted’ collection. Absolutely dreamy clothes are further amplified by striking photos. Filled with floral and butterfly motifs this collection is a demonstration of the exquisite craftsmanship that the brand is built upon. Flouncy gowns, sheer anarkalis, trimmed tulle skirts were some strong points. Floral dresses take up a new meaning here; colorful delicate petals elevate the dresses. With fine embroidery and kaleidoscopic colors, this collection is truly Magical Couture.

Giambattista Valli: Area be absolutely killing it. Crystal trims, feather overload, Couture denim, metal breastplates and whatnot. The standouts were molded dresses tightly embellished with crystals; one silver crystal gown that Simone Bikes wore for the Met Gala 2021. This collection surely makes a girl dream. Area is clearly leveraging its signature aesthetic while exploring new territories.

Area: Area be absolutely killing it. Crystal trims, feather overload, Couture denim, metal breastplates and whatnot. The standouts were molded dresses tightly embellished with crystals; one silver crystal gown that Simone Bikes wore for the Met Gala 2021. This collection surely makes a girl dream. Area is clearly leveraging its signature aesthetic while exploring new territories.

Jean Paul Gaultier: THIS IS FASHION. It’s truly Glenn Martens world and this collection is simply a testament to his talent. Genuine sensible references and the blend of the house codes with his own vision is absolutely divine. There actually aren’t enough adjectives to describe the brilliance of this collection.

Elie Saab: Dreamy dresses made up of pretty colors, classic silhouettes, intricate embellishments and a whole lot of that signature Saab extravaganza. Delicate appliques, floral motifs, big ruffles, glossy fringe were some recurring elements in this Romantic and fantastical lineup. Quintessential Couture looks that make a girl dream.

Zuhair Murad: Seductive cutouts, magnificent colors, dreamy necklines this collection is all Zuhair Murad. “We need to dream, today more than ever,” He cultivates quite a dreamland. Dripping with crystals, beautifully draped lame, embroidered maps were some of this collection’s highlights. A gorgeous show indeed.

Charles De Vilmorin: With this collection titled “Danse Macabre” Vilmorin steps out of his comfort zone with less artistic and more costumey. Jewel tones and overwhelming silhouettes consumed the models. Ruffles, feathers, ruching, sequins and all the couture necessities were featured in this collection. It was surely intriguing.