All about London Fashion Week Spring 2022

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by brownfashionagal

Burberry: Titled ‘Animal Instinct’ this collection had neither, well it has cow print but that simply doesn’t count. The Reconstructed-Deconstructed trenches were actually quite sharp and well thought. The colorful almost geometric printed looks were nice but poorly made but a black bodysuit with a under-breast cutout was quite nice. Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry is quite bold and unlikely but that’s where the charm lies. But let’s just say we could have done it without the desperate ‘ears’.

Halpern: Signature sequins, dramatic satins, full feathers were the highlights in this beautifully presented collection. Shot at the legendary Royal Opera House this collection focused on the beauty of movement; a concept that emphasized the superiority of Micheal Halpern’s work. We saw some interpretation of the gradual signature ball silhouette and a meticulously layered multicolored fringed look that moved like water.

Bora Aksu: Cottagecore on Acid is the most accurate description of Bora Aksu’s dreamy aesthetic. Each look transports me to a fantasy far far away; romantic maximalism at its best. Colors so dreamy they create unreal clothes. Floral appliques, ruffles, layers, lace were a strong constant here. 18th-century glam paired with comfortable structures is what makes Bora Aksu such a dream.

Knwls: Y2k meets the 90s was the main theme here, it was hot but repetitive. The styling was quite overdone and didn’t feel natural, Charlotte Knowles’s work has been sexy yet comfortable though in this collection both were missing.

David Koma: Swimwear inspired dresses, neons, sexy cutouts, embellishments, feather details were used to blur the lines between evening wear glam and pragmatic sportswear. While the overuse of neons was distracting from the clothes and its details and construction. Geometric cutouts aimed to honor Zaha Hadid’s legendary work incidentally the show was held at London Aquatic Center which was designed by the architect herself.

Nensi Dojaka: Winner of the LVMH 2021 prize this was Nensi Dojaka’s first solo collection. Well, this was not it. While this collection did celebrate the brand’s signatures there seemed to be a lack of effort and cohesiveness in the clothes. There were a few really nice minidresses though the suits did not seem to work. I’m here for some daywear lingerie and hoping for some more diverse body types on the runway especially with Nensi’s design aesthetic.

Roland Mouret: Well, Roland Mouret had some of the chicest daywear looks inspired by the southern France, Greece and Mediterranean summers. A collection highlight was articulate back designs and dramatic handmade earrings. All in all, Mouret was a win.

Erdem: A collection inspired by Edith Sitwell and Ottoline Morrell was created with classic shapes, rich embellishments and floral prints. The collection was styled by Ibrahim Kamara which brought out the simplicity of the clothes and enhanced the references splendidly. While it wasn’t groundbreaking it was quite nice.

Richard Malone: LFW revolves around Richard Malone for me. A collection worth the wait. The usage of leather was gorgeous especially in a two-toned coat for which I would do unspeakable things. The bags made with Mulberry were quite nice. Even though final looks served some conceptual drama there have been better Malone collections.

Supriya Lele: Sexy but meaningful is the idea behind Supriya Lele’s clothes. Ultra hot clothes that also reference her Indian culture(a notable moment was staple Salwar referenced in black sheer cargo pants). Y2K esque silhouettes created with sensual fabrics were the key point to note here, while Spring 2022 was all right it does veer towards the more obvious sultry motifs. Whereas her Fall 2021 was a collection so brilliant; the clothes didn’t need to be tiny to exude sex.

Emilia Wickstead: This collection was rather pretty with vintage looking floral prints, bright colors and dramatic elegant silhouettes. Inspired by ‘Last year in Marienbad’ this collection was a dream, a glamorous one. Neatly tailored dresses, elegantly cinched waists, second-skin pencil skirts or the cleanly pleated skirts this Wickstead collection had some timeless pieces.

Roksanda: This collection was visual ecstasy. An oversized deconstructed suit in all neutral colors was a look to drool over. Kaleidoscopic colorful silk looks were shot brilliantly against a cobalt blue backdrop. Colors are the brand’s superpowers and here it was inspired by the London sky incidentally this collection was as delightful as a sunset on a vacation.

Maximilian: The garments were all sleek-sexy yet dark; Maximilian Davis is blessing us with some experimentation. Slinky sheer dresses were the highlight in this collection along with neatly cut bodysuits. The collection closed with a dramatic demonic like take on the fairy wings structure worn as a backpack by stunning Ajayi Temitope. He knows how to create a moment. We saw variety not only in the clothes but in the concepts.

Simone Rocha: This was Rocha’s 10th anniversary show where she explored mother-daughter relationships. Big lapels, bibs, pearl tiaras, ribbons were added to the Rocha signatures with a more religious-maternal approach. Delicately structured leather, intricate embellishments, pearl bags was where the magic was along with the interpretation of traditionally practical garment nursing bra in multiple looks. Though I do wonder who exactly is Rocha’s customer is, because these clothes lean more the artistic spectrum and lack wearability.

Harris Reed: Two colors, 10 looks were all Harris Reed needed to create an artful demi-couture collection. Exaggerated chromatic silhouettes are his strengths which he leveraged to the max. He described his work as ‘ Romanticism gone Nonbinary’ and that alone portrays the essence of his clothes. Big lace trains, flowing tulle, tailored tuxedos, satin ruffles were the accentuating elements here. The best part? All the fabrics recycled garments and second-hand clothes hence the collection was called ‘ Found’.

Richard Quinn: Well let me say this first, this was my least favorite Quinn collection. The collection opened with seven intricately pleated looks all in different solid colors; these were quite nicely done. The prints in this collection were underwhelming at best and paring them with bulky silhouettes didn’t help. A set of clothes that lacked vision this wasn’t the Quinn collection we are used to. A standout look was a biker jacket with 3-inch spikes that almost gave post-apocalyptic OOTD energy.

Victoria Beckham: “A masculine silhouette is part of our DNA,” said VB on a collection that was heavily influenced by menswear in general. The more manly shapes and styles were contrasted by the slinky sensual dresses. VB’s clothes have always been drenched in sophistication and style and now with an updated business model, it has unlocked new potential.

JW Anderson: Wannabe provocative self-portraits by Juergen Teller were quite a moment. The garment to note here was this structurally ruffled knitted mini skirts along with leather dresses. We show dresses in sheer, shift, bodycon and fringe; there was something different about this collection perhaps a preview of a new JW Anderson like the designer said.