All about New York Fashion Week Spring 2022

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by brownfashionagal

Christian Cowan: Star-shaped bra tops, feather-loaded looks, Mariana Trench like necklines were the standout elements in this show. Christian Cowan designs for a simply fabulous woman who dresses the fuck up. While the collection had numerous approaches to the point where there was a lack of cohesiveness. Some sheer dresses were quite delightful along with a lavender feather-trimmed miniskirt with a cropped jacket. While I can’t say much for the fabrics or tailoring; better choices might have made the collection looks more refined.

Prabal Gurung: An absolutely dreamy color palette paired with romantic summery silhouettes; this Prabal collection was one for the books. Clothes you’d want to wear while singing wildest dreams in your bedroom. Big fluffy skirts shortened to mini skirts, traditional Big bows, big skirts, and cinched waists paired with more comfortable ‘modern elements. While being inspired by the 2020 social movements Prabal also questioned femininity, “Who gets to be a girl?” he asked backstage

Collina Strada: A sunny heartfelt kick-off to the somewhat dull fashion week. Hillary Taymour showcased the best collection yet and I am very much here for it. Called ‘SNAILS PACE’ the collection represented a delightfully kiddish energy through some colorful clothes. The grounded styling reminds one of those New York street style photographs; Models dancing running and smiling walking through the sun peeked rooftop farm (major bonus points to the diverse casting). Cargo pants, ruched slinky dresses, star splatters jeans, cutout bodysuits were the stars here with some dangerously joyful prints.

Peter Do: Peter Do’s first runway collection was comprised of delicate styling, fine tailoring and diverse silhouettes. The collection was quintessential American combined with rather touching Vietnamese references ( the collection was named ‘Home’). While Peter is generally regarded as a Minimalist designer there’s nothing minimal about the rather exquisite clothes we saw. I stayed up till 3 am to watch the show though overall the collection was quite nice sometimes I do wonder if it’s his work or simply the pressure of the social media hype (very reminiscent of the Jacquemus phase). Though there seems to be nothing but success on Peter’s horizon and isn’t that what we all want?.

Proenza Schouler: This just might be one of the best Proenza Schouler’s best collections. Colors so vivid they are enchanting, the very thoughtful styling was a win here. Fringed dresses that move beautifully, coats with trippy zebra print and neatly tailored suits. The island inspirations were evident throughout though the clothes very subtly remind one of the pre-pandemic vacations. Be it in the beaded sleeves or oversized garments there was a deep-rooted positivity everywhere.

Ulla Johnson: Inspired by Nature the colors were all earthy greens and blues, detailed floral prints, striking magenta and delightful neutrals. the causal corsets were rather beautiful, a dress with seashell appliques seemed to have found the perfect balance between wearable and simply pretty. Clothes so grounded it’s basically love at first sight.

PH5: Fashion tech took a front seat here and while the collection did have some decent looks it was forgettable at best. Though pastel-coral colors were quite pretty something we didn’t see enough this season. The collection was called ‘ Moments of Joy’ but there was hardly any joy and also I’m still not over PH5’s Resort 2022 collection. I just want more from PH5.

Naeem Khan: As much as I wanted to like this collection it ended up being probably the worst collection this season and definitely in Naeem Khan’s career. The collection looked like a watered-down version of a typical 2000s Italian collection. Unfortunate similarities to Versace, Dolce & Gabbana among many. Gun to my head I can’t pick one decent look.

Moschino: Moschino has usually been child’s play for Jeremy Scott. The rain and the disinterested crowd didn’t help the whimsy Scott tried to project. While the collection did have some wonderful pieces it felt repetitive almost forced at times. With obvious references, the wit and humor were lacking here which is key to Moschino’s DNA. The clothes seemed quite wearable, maybe Scott is playing it safe thanks to the pandemic. Moschino isn’t for everyone this collection might be.

Gabriela Hearst: Gabriela Hearst’s work for her namesake brand and Chloé seems to be too ‘inspired’ from each other. Vividly colorful knitted looks were a standout and a delicious leather tan dress. She collaborated with some artisans to create multiple elements in the collection. Anyway, the clothes sure did ‘look’ sustainable if not so good. There were some decent suits and a black trench with contrasting colorful hems.

Michael Kors: Titled ‘Urban Romance’ this collection featured divine tailoring, romantic colors and classic silhouettes. Clothes so timeless, so New York, so Kors. A gorgeous black leather bandeau with a skirt was quite a moment along with some lace, some gingham and some delicate knits moments. Maybe these clothes weren’t just an effort to emphasize the importance of classic but also a move to focus on more sellable clothes. Nevertheless, it was quite nice.

Brandon Maxwell: This collection was a lot about colors and prints, stripes, trippy,70s-ish, gingham among many. Comprised of a relatively casual syllabus this collection was a remarkable one for Maxwell. Bikini tops with suits, Slinky dresses with trippy prints, elevated athleisure and even pleated lame skirts the collection had both range and uniformity. Well, I have to say it feels weird to like a Brandon Maxwell collection but I’m glad.

Christian Siriano: So this collection was a lot to process. Deeply questionable fabric choices were a tragic addition to most looks. Siriano’s strength seems to lie in the tailored minimal looks which were actually delightfully(to note – a cream coat dress with big lapels and buttons) The collection did the hints of Christopher John Rogers and Valentino Couture do I did not hate these references as much as Twitter did(referencing is the key to fashion afterall). All the collection was quite unbearable and 6 closing looks were respectively atrocious. The collection simply lacked vision and direction.

Coach: 90s New York was the main character energy here; the clothes offered a casual statement piece appeal. Coach has been stepping up their clothes recently though this looked like watered-down Louis Vuitton (Nicolas Ghesquière LV). Extra oversized shoulders graphic T-shirts, low waist denim. The looks with a-line skirts + oversized coats were very on point; one in a neon green was an updated Clueless look. All in all, It was an optimistic varied collection.

Helmut Lang: The collection was quite archival yet it lacked cohesiveness. Any Lang enthusiast will pick up the halter dress or the cargo jumpsuit references and many more. There were are nautical elements present too apparently. The collection was created by the design team and understandably it was a safe collection.

Jason Wu: The floral prints in this collection were delicate and romantic created in collaboration with fabric artist Cara Marie Piazza. From body-hugging dresses to full taffeta gowns the collection was all so conventionally feminine, a notion Wu did well. The florals overpowered the collection though for a good reason it was rather beautiful. While it was nothing groundbreaking I can’t deny the fact it was gorgeous.

Carolina Herrera: Wes Gordon’s Herrera is a dream; romantic, American, dramatic and luxurious. This collection was a celebration of the brand’s 40th anniversary. The collection was a celebration of Herrera classics and Gordon’s modernity. The collection started off with a series of finely curated black and white looks including tuxedo references, tiny cocktail dresses, ballgowns. With extravagant silhouettes, daring colors and vintage-ish prints this collection was a remarkable collection for Wes Gordon whose vision at Herrera has been underrated.

Anna Sui: A tropical paradise wardrobe for almost everyone, clothed mostly in pinks and greens. Bikinis and kaftan dresses were the clear winners here. Anna said to WWD “Like all of us, dreaming about getting away. Not a particular place, but really just someplace exotic, tropical, with lots of sun, lots of water. So, I put together a whole fantasy of it,”

Laquan Smith: As much as I wanted to like this Laquan collection this was probably rather disappointing. Held at the Empire State building; the clothes did attempt to exude glamour and sensuality but it rarely came across. The real drawback in this collection was the styling which felt very forced and did not accentuate the garments. The clothes were daring for sure but felt like flanderization of his previous work. Lack of direction was evident here but I hope that won’t be for too long. Laquan Smith can do way better than this.

Frederick Anderson: This was one of the most surprisingly stunning collections of this season. Comprised a lot of wearable romantic pieces; The very elegant cozy Y2k inspired styles were quite nice and a perfect blend of dressing up and comfort (also cottagecore for Gen Z). The delicate knits and the lace dresses were the standouts here. The colors so delightful and sober were again gorgeous.

Rodarte: Rodarte decided to completely switch up this season. Whereas there were some really nice looks the collection seemed very random and almost messy; Too many concepts at once. Every look had a completely different aesthetic; there seems to be a bit of experimentation going on though figuring it out will take a while I assume. Also, the collection ended with almost 20 looks of beige/ pastel t-shirt dresses with barefoot models. Can someone explain that please?

Tory Burch: A tribute to the iconic designer Claire McCardell; “Her designs instilled a sense of freedom, encouraged self-expression and empowered women with a casual elegance that is as relevant today as it was in the late 1940s,” said the show notes. Clothes were not conventionally aesthetically pretty but beautiful in thought. Well, this just might be one of my favorite Burch collections. The print, fabrics textures colors silhouettes everything symbolized a sense of real comfort a woman can only dream to have.

Kim Shui: Quite a hot collection; Trippy prints and dangerously sexy silhouettes were a sureshot win. The harness pants, slinky dresses with multiple cutouts and ultra-short shorts were some defining pieces. Even Though this collection seemed more into trends (Y2k primarily), paired with all the brand signatures it was delightful. The Kim Shui woman is sexy and we’re here for it. Also the cowboy boots and hats? A fun addition.

Altuzarra: Altuzarra returns to NYFW with a stunning collection. The clothes projected a very raw grounded and escapist fantasy with boho-beachy elements. Crochet tops were a standout here; a look to note was an off-white suit with a black crochet top worn over with tassels all over. A collection rich in fabrics and textures presented us with effortlessly tropical clothes.

Tom Ford: Tom Ford went all out this season; it was all sequins metallics and crystals here. It was the sheer gaudiness at times which made me like the collection especially the sequined button-downs. Low rise pants, sporty bra tops, loads of lame were some of thr more diverse concepts we saw. Ford’s iconic velvet suits are now brighter and the pants are now capris. This collection wasn’t for everyone and I guess I’m one of them.

Thom Browne: This show wasn’t just extraordinary clothes but a slice of Thom Browne’s genius. Presented through a touching storyline inspired by J.G Ballard’s ‘The Garden of Time’. The collection featured approximately 200 garments most of them in gray tailored to perfection. Trompe l’oeil esque looks created with tulle(tulle layered to create the human body silhouette) were simply Glorious, as is Thom Browne.