All about Haute Couture Fall 2021

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by brownfashionagal

Alexandre Vauthier: Oh to be an Alexandre Vauthier girl. Vauthier gave us the drama and glamour we wanted. Even in a rather iconic Couture season lineup he makes his mark; among many hot looks there were standouts. A classic fringed dresses, crystal drenched minidress and a feathery heart-shaped dress quite reminiscent of the red heart look by Hedi Slimane. A pinstripe suit which is now something I expect from a Vauthier show was quite good.

Alexis Mabille: This Mabille collection was quite a fairy tale; well it had the vision execution is another thing. A lot of flower motifs were persistent, some in the neckline as a bouquet and some opening up the sleeves through the delicate petals. The tulle capes closing the show felt quite forced and didn’t have the impact they should have. Almost retro Couture energy paired with dramatic silhouettes and refined extravaganza.

Armani Privé: Classic Armani jackets started off the show. The highlight in this collection was definitely the liquid satiny fabric giving a holographic effect featured in multiple looks. Romantic ruffled tulle dresses were dreamy and Some ferociously ruffled gowns with a slick bodice were memorable too. Dramatic gowns in pretty floral prints were Armani classics and solidify the timelessness that Armani focused on.

Chanel: Here we are at Chanel. Hideous skirts, Awkward silhouettes and messy styling were the clear highlights in this collection A few decent eveningwear looks (looks 33-35) made the collection bearable. My favorite item here was a silver sequined fringed scarf. A lovely black dress worn by Mona Tougaard was reminiscent of Christian Lacroix’s jacket featured on Anna Wintour’s first US Vogue cover. The very ill-fitted Chanel suits now won’t age a woman by 20 years but by 40. The final wedding dress was pretty but expectedly boring. Once again I’m disappointed.

Balenciaga: Balenciaga did Couture and it was quite a Moment. Many of Cristobal’s iconic looks were recreated with a strong modern appeal. Big silhouettes, big hats and big drama did live upto the enormous expectations that Demna Gvasaliawas faced with. This will be a show to remember for a while; thought-provoking and relevant. A clearly successful Couture revival for Balenciaga. Read the whole Review.

Charles de Vilmorin: A collection made all in black was the stark opposite of Charles de Vilmorin’s super-colorful trippy clothes which we’ve seen in his previous work. A wide range of silhouettes adorned with dramatic feathers. He intended to make his clothes more accessible and more wearable. It did feel like a safe choice it’s understandable because a young designer needs to experiment but it won’t be a good surprise every time.

Christian Dior: All there’s left to like about Dior it’s the archives. There were some decent trench coats and the High waist corseted skirts were rather lovely. The styling was just hopeless as usual. There were some sheer gowns; the finale look was pretty and will truly shine in editorials. Special mention to looks 64. 65, 66 and 68 simply because of how hideous they were. The iconic New look MGC regularly references ages the look by 40 years at best, it’s just not new anymore. Can we move on now?

Fendi: A quite surprisingly exquisite collection; filled with strong Roman influence the looks were Couture at its best. Intricate fur detailing and floral embroidery was persistent throughout. The marble textured fur gown was just stunning (look 23).With some looks greatly reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld’s Legends and Fairy Tales (FW16). Undoubtedly one of Kim Jones’s best collections and a notable one for Fendi as well.

Giambattista Valli: Of course, there was a lot of tulle. Comprised of a dreamy color palette this collection will bring out the romantic in everyone. There seems to be a bit more experimentation in this collection in terms of silhouettes. A black and white tulle look with a sculptural silhouette was quite brilliant (look 21). A lot of high low gowns were surprisingly pretty, a candy cane red-white look was super cute and is a perfect representation of the younger appeal in Giambattista Valli’s work.

Iris van Herpen: Earthrise she called it. A collection made up of multiple collaborations resulted in delicate looks. Elaborate sculptural dresses and chiffon dreamy dresses were a beautiful. The standout look was a delicate minidress in white with subtle gold detailing (look 2). The details and intricacies of Iris’s work truly stand out in this collection. For the finale look, we saw Domitille Kiger skydiving in Couture and it couldn’t get any better.

Jean Paul Gaultier: Sacai’s creative director Chitose Abe took over the reins of JPG Couture this season. The seamless blend of Chitose and Gautier was remarkable; Gautier staples and Chitose’s ideas merged well. The genius was within the deconstruction and details. There were pinstripe, puffers, denim tulle, and whatnot. A promising concept for JPG Couture by the new age Enfants Terribles.

Pyer Moss: Kerby Jean-Raymond, the founder of label Pyer Moss, became the first Black American designer to show on the couture calendar in over 150 years. The idea behind the collection where each look represented an invention by a black individual was beautiful. The show closed with a fridge with colorful magnets spelling out ‘but who invented black trauma?’. This collection was simply much more than clothes; it was representation, it was respect, it was a statement. It’s a moment in fashion history. Read the whole review.

Rahul Mishra: Inspired by Santorini, the collection was decorated with motifs from the heavenly island combined with the five elements earth, water, fire, wind, and space. Featuring the signature 3D embroidery, While the craftsmanship was sublime the presentation was not as delightful. Rahul Mishra called this collection Shape of Air; Mishra classics paired with subtle experimentation showed us growth.

Ronald van der Kemp: RVDK stays true to himself; for the third time he didn’t source any new materials but worked with what he had. Quite a diverse collection presenting multiple textures, silhouettes, fabrics resulted in a fresh approach to every look. This collection had a sense of heightened ultra-luxury which was kind of new to his work, who knew limiting resources for yourself was so freeing.

Schiaparelli: Every collection that Daniel Roseberry puts out is unrealistically better than before. His take on conventional Couture with ‘modern’ notions has given us the epitome of ‘dreamy couture’. The perfect balance of something so homely but unattainable. The jewelry was exquisite and a smart move to bring in sales. A collector’s heaven, Roseberry understands what we expect and he gives it to us. Read the whole review.

Tomo Koizumi: Set in Kyoto’s Nijo Castle, Koizumi’s collection was quite a feat of color this season. A plethora of substantial silhouettes created with dramatic tulle; Models were engulfed with vivid tulle looks glided through the night sky. Motifs of phoenixes, lions, dragons represented the strong traditional influences. Koizumi is growing and I’m here for it.

Valentino: Valentino Couture was expectedly unreal. the Gaggiandre of Venice, Pierpaolo Piccioli blessed us with Drama, Glamour and Emotion. An array of brilliant colors swarming through a range of silhouettes made in ultra-luxurious materials. Even among the stunning jellyfish hats and the artful ballgowns, The Menswear in this collection was a clear winner; layered styling, luxurious tailoring and exceptional colors. Again Pierpaolo Piccioli has raised the bar for himself. Read the whole review.

Viktor & Rolf: Viktor and Rolf was a throwback to me daydreaming while watching the Princess Diaries but make it super dramatic. Outrageously Extravagant gowns embellished with huge crystals and luxurious fur were a constant. There was something so unattainable yet relatable in this collection; The energy of dramatic overdressing flowing through a rigid royal setup. Big sashes and climactic silhouettes were enough to wow me.