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‘No more cookie-cutter fashion’ said Roseberry in show notes, he asked “What if you combined a little Manet; a little Lacroix; a little 1980s; a little 1880s; a little matador; a little space alien; a little Ingres; a little shimmer; a lot of color?”
The answer was of course ‘Matador Couture’. This collection exemplified conventional Couture with a ton of hat signature surrealism. The detailed references and complexities in this collection showcased Roseberry’s genius. Daniel Roseberry knows couture down to its bone. His take on conventional Couture with ‘modern’ notions has given us the epitome of ‘dreamy couture’. The items were collector’s heaven, Roseberry understands what people expect and he gives it to us.
The collection began with a colorful heavily embellished Matador jacket, made from 1930’s Schiaparelli swatches revived from couture embroidery house Lesage archives. The denim version patchworked from 11 pairs of vintage Levi’s was adorned with exquisite gold embroidery and embellishments.
One of the standout looks was a sleek black scoop dress paired with a gold necklace showing the complex bronchi of our lungs adorned with rhinestones. Another similar look used two huge gold roses(corset of a sort) to cover the model’s chest. A breastplate that accentuated the breasts was paired with a stole from made fringed black garbage bags.
A black off-shoulder dress featured a huge pink rose appliqué whereas a black sculptural minidress embroidered with pink silk roses was a tribute to a Jean Cocteau and Schiaparelli collaboration from 1937. We also saw Coture Jeans dramatized with Roseberry signatures and a shit ton of gold. A black gown with an orange bust-line shaped like lips with a matching train was quite stunning.
The body motifs were a constant throughout the collection be it in embroidery or jewelry. The accessories in this collection were a clear highlight and have seamlessly bought together all the pieces. The usage of gold has quickly become Roseberry’s signature and it is not only stunning but a quite smart business move(pertaining to jewelry).
This was Daniel Roseberry’s best Schiaparelli collection yet. Yes I say this every time, I really can’t help Roseberry surpasses himself every time. The way in which Roseberry has continued and enhanced Elsa’s surrealist ideas is truly remarkable. The roots of couture still lie in dramatic opulence and unrealistic extravagance, Schiaparelli Couture gave us that and much more.
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Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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