50 Years Later: Balenciaga Couture Fall 2021

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by brownfashionagal

“There is no one left to dress.” said Cristobal Balenciaga on the closing of his iconic Atelier. He presented his last show in January 1968 in Pairs after blessing us with a reinvention of fashion including legendary shapes, silhouettes, and techniques which resulted in the sack dress, balloon dress, cocoon coat, baby doll dress among many. After 53 years Demna Gvasalia showed his much-awaited first Balenciaga Couture collection and let me tell you it sure was something.

On a freshly wiped off Instagram page and the same reincarnated Couture salon, Demna presented the collection in silence just like Cristobal Balenciaga. All we could hear was the sound of models walking and dragging their couture clothes and the muffled voices of the front row.

The legacy of Cristobal Balenciaga work was persistent throughout the collection but didn’t overpower Demna’s signatures; the seamless blend of the Balenciaga and Demna was almost too good to be true. Demna said, “It was a challenge to find a balance between the fusion of the architectural legacy, the history, and what I stand for.”

Undoubtedly one of the most important collections in Demma’s career but more significant was the influence and direction it holds to redirect conventional couture. Many have tried to modernize Couture but have fallen into the traps of traditional beauty and luxury archetypes. Though this will be a show to remember for a while; thought-provoking and relevant.

The collection began with some artfully tailored slouchy suits all in black; A structured trench worn by a model with Wintour-esqe hair had a striking simplicity that is hard to beat. Ella Emhoff (questionable model selection) wore a suit with a puffy stole which again highlights Dema’s bareness and Cristobal’s Grandeur. Then came the hats, the big Philip Treacy hats and became a defining point of the collection. There were evident interpretations of the Balenciaga classics in prints, silhouettes or techniques.

We saw Couture Jeans, a rather paradoxical item; while they do make couture relatable it would be a challenge to justify their existence. A cable knit sweater made entirely of aluminum chain was simply magnificent. A stunning vintage-looking gown with pink embroidery was a must-have which I am never gonna have. Iconic looks were transformed into dramatic gowns drenched in subtle athleisure and comfort. A lot of reimagined looks from previous RTW collections remained constant treading the line between mindful fashion and slightly repetitive.

Demna followed tradition by closing with a bridal look, a bridal look so eerie and beautiful. A clean pristine dress with a full veil seemed to be a take on Cristóbal Balenciaga’s single seam wedding dress from 1967.

Demna definitely did not disappoint, A clearly successful Couture revival for Balenciaga. “Couture is above trends, fashion, and industrial dream-making “said Demna. In today’s age where everyone almost has to justify making clothes, Demna tried hard to do that. He did introduce new concepts but kept his options open with some conventional couture pieces. Maybe a smart business move but the question still gnaws at me that can Couture be modernized with Jeans and Sweatshirts? Is that all it takes?