by Tina Dimkovska aka TheOtherLagerfeld
The CSM M.A. class of 2021 did not have much luck when it comes to their work conditions for the annual L’Oréal Prize. Still, while being in lockdown they managed to create an impressive virtual world showing every student’s collection.
I straight up admit that this was the most fascinating way of showing a collection that I have seen throughout the entire pandemic. The experience starts with a virtual representation of a big modernistic castle. By clicking on the floor or using the directional keys, you can move and go inside one of the four doors. Then bam; you are in a big oddly-shaped grey room. Getting closer to the screen the show starts. After you are finished watching what these students have worked on, you see a black board with an arrow telling you to continue walking on the grey path, but why? To get to the designer rooms of course! We have another tunnel shaped grey room with screened walls playing videos and showing photos of the designer’s inspirations, the designers walking us through their day-to-day life, talking about their collections, and more. Here you can see everything about them. A grey curtain with the word “fashion” blinking at the top is next. At this point, I wondered what could be next. In addition, when I tell you that I was in the center of a white magnificent circular gallery surrounded by photos of every single show I am definitely not lying; It is impeccable. It has different photos on the wall; to be exact every photo is a representation of each collection. By clicking on the photos in a room surrounded by bold photos and videos of the collection.
What I appreciate the most is that I could feel every single student. I could feel their vibe and I felt as if I was physically there. I love that they let everybody express themselves. It could have been easier to film models walking on a plain ol’ black runway; however, they decided to let every single student shoot their own short film. while connecting the clips to create a captivating fashion show. Every short clip differed from the previous one and every single student showed a side of himself or herself through it. And that is my favorite part of the “show”. With such an indulging, immersive experience it felt like a game but with reality and fashion.
The music was really good, however, I must mention that when Michèle Lamy started talking I got chills. Lamy voiced the introduction in the most show-stopping way possible. I still get chills thinking about her “I dare you”.
What made me fall in love with the entire experience was that it felt as if I was walking and going around. The perspective is what made it for me because I actually experienced it. It wasn’t just pictures on Vogue Runway or a youtube video.
Vogue contributor Gabriella Karefa-Johnson selected the winners of the award: Sol Hansdottir and Antonio Castro.
For today I decided to do a quick review on the winners’ collection as well as two of my favorite ones.
Hansdottir’s collection was heavily inspired by “Irrational tailoring”. She had a theory on control. Furthermore, she mentioned that we think that we have control over life, but in reality, we do not. She connected her theory with her “fashion self” by a new and unique way of tailoring wool gathered from old Icelandic fabrics and flees (from her family’s farm). Genuinely, I feel like it is a “stand-out” concept. Furthermore, with her quirky way of draping, well rather tailoring the designer was able to achieve all sorts of silhouettes. She created as I call them “busy silhouettes”. When it comes to the color pallet Hansdottir used many blues, reds, nudes, whites. I am especially impressed by the color in look 8(Look 45 on Vogue Runway) where we have an ashy, dark purple color. It is a very creative and original collection and I definitely cannot wait to see what she will do next!
On the other hand, Antonio Castro found inspiration in a folk Portuguese tradition (not to be shady, but here we can see how they’re both collection have a connecting dot AKA they were inspired by the designers’ roots). “I created these characters from this ritual—it’s a Celtic tradition like the wicker man. They get transported by a glitch that takes them from this initiation to these other Zoom calls that are happening, I cut vintage garments and rewove them. I made corsets and shirts, but I don’t think in gender. It was a challenge at first, but it was also very good to focus, to construct on my own body. Because of that, I think the outcome was much richer.” if I am being completely genuine Castro’s collection might have been my favorite. The dark blue set was to die for. His attention to detail gave an extra dimension to his work. Castro created a seamless balance in the silhouettes; he created a contrast between the “busy silhouettes” and simpler; more polished ones. After seeing his work I can tell that Antonio understands fabrics and how to work with them. Overall, the collection is absolutely flawless and I have no choice but to stan. Bravo Antonio!
What I enjoy about both collections is the fact that they kind of upcycled fabrics, therefore they were sustainable while fashionable.
Another collection, which I really enjoyed, was Vivien Canades’. The collection is called “A sip of fresh air”. As he said during her interview with i-D magazine, Canadas’ collection explores how the ideal of a life in the countryside redefines and transforms the concept of modernity. As we all know, we, humans completely changed our way of living in less than a century. We switched from living in villages to living in crowded and noisy cities. Looking back in history and the way that things were changing, this “human adaptation” seems to have happened all of the sudden. Looking at the collection, one thing is obvious: it spoke fluently in “colors”. As I see it, he has mastered a new tailoring technique. I enjoyed the silhouettes as well as the sharp lines going on. Canadas has a great eye for color; moreover, he color-blocked like a pro. (also a special mention to the brooches). I also enjoyed the “upwards constructed” cuffs on the pants and the balloon silhouette dresses. Yes, they reminded me a lot of the OG Cristóbal Balenciaga one, however the pleaded detail connected beautifully to the sharper and polished energy of the collection.
Lastly, let’s talk about Conor Baxter’s collection. The color palette was a restricted one with a beautiful shade of blue. His work is very bold, unique, and fantasy-like. I feel like the pieces were wearable and at the same time just out of this world. Here in particular, Baxter showed us how hair, makeup, the set design can affect a certain garment is perceived. For some reason, his work reminded me a lot of Galliano at Dior, however with a younger and fresher touch to it. My personal favorite was the white look with the see-through instruments. Oh, and do not even get me started on the shoes! Baxter did give us more Couture spirit compared to the more marketable energy of Canadas. Either way, both collections were simply wonderful.
Although I only talked about a couple of collections, I think that the majority of the designers did some fabulous work. Seeing the next generation of fashion designers and virtually sort of meeting them makes me so happy. I feel like we are on the doorstep of one of the greatest eras in fashion with these young talents. During the show, I experienced a range of energies, thoughts, and people. These collections gave us some much-needed hope for fashion and while not all looks might be a hit, fashion is about the difference of opinion and that is the beauty of fashion!
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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