All about Paris Fashion Week Fall 2021

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by Shreya S

Marine Serre: Layered with a strong sense of love and community this Marine Serre collection was for everyone. Much simpler than the past collections with all the signatures intact. Cresent moon splattered tights, extensive outerwear and sportswear somehow came together cohesively and presented us with a refreshing truly homey feeling. While the styling and collection was a bit supermarket-ish some rather murky looks we can deal with it. Also, special mention to a red moon printed onesie sported by the cutest baby.

Ottolinger: Ottolinger gives us some badass post-apocalyptic looks with some solid utilitarian pieces and some ultra-modernized feminine looks. A far-fetched mind might consider this collection a version of Kim Shui and Y Projects’ lovechild. Decontronstruced knits, puffers, and gowns were a delight along with the vividly printed mesh looks featuring the surreal work of Cheyenne Julien.

Heliot Emil: Made up of intense materials yet projecting a free feel. Mostly monochromatic this collection was a baby of sportswear and military. Sometimes lean, sometimes bulky the silhouettes were diverse with the strong points were asymmetry and sexy cutouts. The standout look was every look, the whole collection was basically a wishlist.

Thebe Magugu: Fringes, colors, hats, pleats, and elements came together to give us some uniformed looks. Highly intellectual subtle references were present throughout the collection; polygraph prints, court statements printed on shirts, tiny microphones, fingerprint-polka dots are just some of them. The show closed with a stunning white dress with a cape over with ombre teal detailing. With just 19 looks Magugu was one of the highlights this fashion week and rightfully so.

Chloé: The strong focus on this collection was sustainability and self-assurance, Gabriela Hearst continued with leftovers from Natacha Ramsay-Levi. She said “New isn’t always better,” and nothing is truer. Comfortable silhouettes, bohemian colors, and a sheltered energy defined her debut. Clean flowy gowns, knitted maxi dresses, and some patchwork jackets were delightful though the accessories were a lot to process.

Acne Studios: A collection made with the concepts of comfort and sophistication intertwined was presented by Jonny Johansson. Fabrics and colors were quite cozy along with refreshing accessories. The show ended with some power looks in monochromes. Each looks so engrossing, drenched in little security and confidence.

Dries Van Noten: A deeply poetic energy persisted throughout the collection. In retro-romantic colors, there were dramatic elements and animal appeal. It started with a woman wearing a white dress holding a big bunch of red roses and progressed with a focus on movement and dancing. The standout looks included a blue blazer with fur-trimmed sleeves and a seductive pink-red sequined dress.

Courrèges: Nicolas Di Felice debueted for Courrèges and it was glorious. He defined it as a ‘radical simplicity’; Contemporary 60s paired with avant-garde minimalism gave us some youthful-sexy pieces. High boots, cutouts, mini dresses, slinky jumpsuits were the highlights here. Overall a substantial collection and a hopeful one.

Patou: Created with a fabulous color palette, vintage silhouettes, and confident tailoring this collection was a Patou special. This collection is one for fashion fanatics, partly because it seems unsure how commercially viable Patou is. Bold layering and the sheer cohesiveness of the presentation reflected the brilliance of Guillaume Henry.

Rick Owens: This collection was a dark dark piece of poetry. Puffer capes, super broad shoulders, and slashed fabrics were the strongs here along with some truly sizzling bodysuits. The highlight looks were two beautifully sequined full catsuits in green and purple. This was a predictable Owens collection, there wasn’t much to root for.

Coperni: My first thought after watching this collection: I need to go clubbing. The show opened with Adut Akech wearing a flawlessly tailored black dress and moved on to some equally gorgeous pieces. A drive-in fashion show seemed quite exciting but I imagine a bit impractical to actually enjoy the show. The notable look was a deeply sensual neon yellow cutout top paired with some neat trousers.

Alexandre Vauthier: This one was underwhelming, Vauthier is one of the few brands that I truly fantasize about. The show featured some nice outerwear, fringes, leather, suits and some of the more toned down party looks where a denim co-rd was stood out.

Loewe: Johnson Anderson is not just a designer he is an artist. This was by far one of his most bold and captivating collections for Loewe. Huge belts, huge tassels, and huge silhouettes within a generously diverse color palette. The collection featured a wide range of fabrics and textures and his juxtaposition of the same with even more quirkier frames and colors. Everyone can find something in this collection be it a neatly tailored suit, some stunning evening wear, or if you just want some random pieces that are screaming to be archived.

Issey Miyake: It was all about texture and character, a restricted color palette with a peek of color here and there. Comfortable and plush pieces were a constant and gave us some much-needed optimism. A teal dress with a grainy center was all sorts of graceful. Even though it wasn’t mildly groundbreaking or even interesting it was cozy, spacious, and peaceful.

Nina Ricci: If you ever need to buy a wardrobe from scratch this collection is the place to start. With some bold suits, delightfully fitted pants, quirky outerwear of course paired with some Ricci hats. The noticeable look here was a pair of green houndstooth pants paired with a skin-fit jacket with flared sleeves. With a hint of sportswear, exquisite tailoring, funky colors this was quite a democratic collection.

Andrew Gn: Andrew Gn deserves much much much more attention. Classic silhouettes, dreamy colors, and perfect tailoring; what more do we need. His work brings out a more romantic-old school side in me.“It’s powerful, but it also makes a woman look very feminine,” he said about a jacket but this applies to every look. Scrolling through this collection is like re-reading a classic, so comforting so enchanting.

Isabel Marant: Quite a lovely collection by Marant. Big shoulders, bright colors, feisty prints it was all retro here, and I’m here for it. Standout look? A gorgeous dress in shiny vinyl and a knitted white co-ord sported by Adut Akech.

Hermes: Hermes was simply boring. The stying and layering here was quite tedious and a bit overdone. The collection seemed too mature which is understandable for Hermes but compared to the previous collections it was a bit disappointing. There were some nice individual pieces but not enough.

Elie Saab: Confidence, strength, and allure were the high points of the Elie Saab woman in this collection. Mostly black and whites there were few looks in teal and lime green and a lovely powder pink. A load of options for his clientele, with more than 83 looks there was just one I liked; a black velvet jumpsuit with crystal piping. Overall it was pretty but a forgettable one.

Rokh: Rokh was so glamorous this season, with soft tailoring, slinky dresses, and numerous statement pieces. There was a little bit of fur, animal print, fringe, lace, denim, and just the perfect amount of deconstruction. My favorite look was a black dress tiered with fuzzy silver fringe. This collection disproves my point that I couldn’t love Rokh more; I can.

Jil Sander: Dramatic straightforwardness was the focus of this collection. Old school prints, sharp cuts, and contemporary details were the focus here. A crisp white shirt with satin shirts with a vivid floral print was rousing and a white dress with contrasting black lace was all sorts of sexy. The accessories were quirky and contrasted the inherent minimalism of Jil Sander seamlessly.

Alexis Mabille: A collection full of neatly cut gowns with extravagant silhouettes was suitable for a regal afterparty. It was lovely. A strapless golden-mustard gown with a coordinated sheer was quite majestic. Comprised of mostly blues, blacks, and dull yellows were the primary colors here. A deep blue double-breasted gown was quite spectacular and reflects on a delicate strength.

Thom Browne: Thom Browne, it was in all sincerity exquisite. Created with some conventionally rigid silhouettes but softened by the brilliance of Thom Browne. Sprinkled with some old-school glam and all monochromes. The details were vital in this collection. Patches, puffer shawls, big bows, mild corsets, cropped jackets were many among the defining elements. Of course, the gold puffer gown was magnificent.

Givenchy: This is turning out more like Matthew Williams by Givenchy. With abysmal styling, off-brand pieces, and overdone aesthetics nothing about this collection was even decent. There was some delightful tailoring moment seen on a grey coat and a couple of suits. The cutout bras just sad and so were the puffer jackets, faux fur pieces, and the ill-fitted dresses.

Lanvin: Magnificent references to Jeanne Lanvin’s work with a subtle take on modernity Bruno Sialelli and Lanvin are an ideal match. An emphasis on brazen glamor and indulgence conveys that this collection is not for everyone. With models dancing to Gwen Stefani’s Rich Girl, this collection is simply made for one. The sentiment is further established with the ad campaign with Paris Hilton, who boldly embodies the classic old-money rich-chick energy.

Schiaparelli: This website might soon turn into a Daniel Roseberry fan page and I’m into that idea. Schiaparelli was of course beautiful. Highlights were some hardcore platform boots, gold ear-shaped phone cases, and a striking step towards the normalization and un-sexualization of breasts. A crisp white shirt with highlighted ribbed breasts was a piece of perfection. Gold headpieces, quirky bags, and poetic cuts gave us a Schiap classic.

Giambattista Valli: The collection was clearly a subdued one in comparison with a greater sense of freedom within juvenile femininity. With an idyllic color palette and some cutesy elements, this collection had some pleasant dresses and suits but I often ponder over the point of Valli RTW itself. An unremarkable collection at best but with some pretty looks.

Christian Dior: The fact that this collection has a maximum of five good looks and that is a step up for Dior is something worrying. But here’s where we are now. Standouts were a few schoolgirl dresses and a lovely grey skirt-suit with a hoodie. The show expectedly ended with a series of deeply unpleasant gowns. MGC said, “People don’t just want functionality and timelessness. They want desire, too,”. But sadly there’s not much any of these elements present in this collection or any of her work for that matter

Balmain: Air travel was the dominant theme with a solid emphasis on being a bad bitch. A powerful collection by Olivier Rousteing, strong not only in the idea but also in literal execution. Thinking of airplanes used to be dreadful(crying babies, long queues, uncomfortable seats etc) but Balmain made it as glamorous as it could be. Neons, metallics, military chic, hardcore boots, big bags, rugged trenches were the highlights in this super fly Balmain presentation.

Chanel: The fact that this collection was inspired by the iconic Chanel Fall 1994 makes this even more appalling. The show did open with some pleasant coats but with each look, it just went downhill. The stying was atrocious if I’m being nice. Random slits, fur boots, cheap prints, unflattering silhouettes were a constant. I read somewhere Chanel is the basic bitch of fashion but looks like the basic bitch might have to move on from Chanel.

Ann Demeulemeester: The collection designed by a ghost team featured sophisticated tailoring, subtle deconstruction, and a romantic-gothic aesthetic. Tank tops with puffy off-shoulder attachments work were a standout along with some breezy trousers. The new direction Demeulemeester seems to be going to is a smart one, keeping intact the signatures and focusing on timelessness.

Paco Rabanne: “It’s just about girls enjoying themselves, releasing that vibration of genuine pleasure.” and this is all we needed. Paco Rabanne was simply glorious this season. The way Julien Dossena plays with Rabanne signatures is admirable. The first two looks; a slinky suit and an off-shoulder dress, both black-velvet and heavily embellished were marvelous. Throughout the collection sparkles, jewels, velvet, chainmail, vintage wallpapers, and demure dresses came together to make us dream and dream.

Miu Miu: Miu Miu stated ‘The utilitarian can become beautiful and pleasurable; the decorative can suddenly have reason, new purpose.’ Brilliant stying and daring pieces gave us hope and a spirit of pragmatic fantasy. From enormous fur boots to puffer bikinis and sequined dresses to slinky slips this collection had it all. Knitted masks, mittens, and scarves paired with puffer suits in fairytale colors and intriguing textures. One of the most fascinating and stirring collections this season, Miu Miu was a Miuccia Masterpiece.

Louis Vuitton: Albeit a bit confusing this one was one of the more engaging collections by Nicolas Ghesquière. Even with the messed-up stying, there were a few individual pieces that caught the eye. I want better for Louis Vuitton and this was just not it. Is the bar so low that just because it isn’t the worst we are relieved?

Mugler: A lot is being spoken about Mugluer having repetitive looks, though it might be true it does not necessarily reflect mundaneness but points towards his stable approach. We saw second-skin bodysuits, sculpted tailoring, trippy prints, and some ultra-sheer shimmery dresses; a stand out was some brazenly cut bodysuits/dresses referencing the Couture Spring 1998 collection. Though the star of this was Dominique Jackson and her fiercely hot walk.