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by Shreya S
Molly Goddard: Goddard blessed us with her range, tailoring, and of course tulle. Goddard is gradually becoming a pillar of London Fashion week and rightly so. With her signature tulle dresses, this time more structured and concise were also paired with funky sweater vests that were quite lovely. With some neatly tailored pieces, flirty printed dresses, and cutesy bags this collection was quite a strong one. Goddard while staying true to herself, explores and enriches.
Erdem: Shot under a spotlight the collection did deserve it. A precisely tailored collection with a relatively restricted color palette. Among some sharply pleated skirts and semi-metallic eveningwear, there were a few not so pleasant aggressively printed dresses. A white feathered texture we saw featured on a few looks was quite lovely. A pale pink dress with red embellishments was quite beautiful among many.
Bora Aksu: A collection that defines the word ‘romantic’. It began with a plaid trench worn over a coordinated school-girl outfit accessorized with pastel pink, the look defined what was to come next. Lace, tulle, and chiffons come together to create looks perfect to run off into the sunset. With pinks, blues, yellows, and reds the heights of fantasy are reached. There were a few structured suits with a few delicate touches here and there – a dusty pink suit stood out. A vivid red-magenta tulle gown was an absolute beauty along with the finale in beige.
Simone Rocha: Simona Rocha has been in the limelight, thanks to her H&M collaboration(which is quite lovely.) and now due to her spectacular Fall 2021. The initial hourglass leather jackets with balloon sleeves are a classic representation of feminine strength, the seamless blend of the conventionally masculine and feminine elements is sheer brilliance. Similar portrayals follow though out the collection paired with impeccable styling. Frills, tulle, flowers, lace were the candied attractions paired with Rocha’s strong foundation. One look that stood out was a white shirt – very formal at the collar and gradually descends into a garden of 3D roses.
Art School: Styled by Katie Grand, this solo debut collection for Art School by Eden Loweth was as brilliant as one could imagine. Fiercely real cast and individuality were the focal points here paired with minimal but brazen dramatic elements. Slashed fabrics, cozy voluminous gowns, shimmery knits, rugged leather pieces were some standouts in this seriously unapologetic collection.
Roksanda: Without a doubt as of the most memorable shows this season, Roksanda is burned into my brain. Luxurious fabrics, dramatic silhouettes, and an immaculate selection of colors were the constant in this collection. An all deep-teal suit was paired with a bright orange bag was quite satisfying to look at and the color-blocked suits were genius while the more neutral looks were refined elegance.
Emilia Wickstead: Set against a royal pink backdrop this was a Wickstead classic. The flawless tailoring, immaculate fits, precise cuts, and the often sensual colors gave us a sense of a more concealed sultriness behind the more conventional looks. Quite a diverse energy was formed through the wraps, fringes, pleats, florals among many elements that dangle between comfort and sophistication.
Nensi Dojaka: The sexuality and elegance this collection exudes is unreal. Soft corsets, subtle cutouts, daring neckline, and a whole lot of sheer was the essence of this collection. There was some tailoring, figure-hugging dresses, and a beautiful pink bra-top with a mini skirt. The stand-out piece was a sheer corset with petal cups; Glamourous, risque, and simply fabulous.
Halpern: As much as I wanted to like this collection, this was just not it. the Black and white sequined looks were so 80s; bold and powerful but still it seemed messy at best. Multicolored sequined looks were messier. The animal prints looks again were a disappointment. The satin trains were absolutely stunning and the red fringed boots are a necessity for me.
Matty Bovan: A little unsure if Matty Bovan should showcase his work at a fashion week or an art gallery. With countless fabrics and textures, 32 looks seemed excessive. Everything was zoomed-in this collection Giant sequins and buttons, super chunky knits, and just exaggerated silhouettes in general. The DIY energy is prominent here and also a little fragile since his aesthetic seems a little fickle.
Maximilian: Maximilian was so good I am shaking. Retro and ultramodern this collection was a bold take on 60s classics. Neat tailoring, elegant necklines, and some of the most beautifully cut miniskirts. A white draped bodice with a huge black feathered headdress was just spectacular. With a focus on Black Elegance, this collection was a standout this fashion week.
Victoria Beckham: The thing is I actually like VB but it does seem to be getting monotonous and slightly uninspiring. There was just one memorable look in this collection which is kind of a step up; floral printed pants in pink and a blue coat in the same print paired with a houndstooth red-black sweater. She said to Vogue“We never want anything to be boring,” but even for a VB customer it was.
Yuhan Wang: Yuhan Wang is quite a wonder and she proves it again. The collection aims to express inner motherhood and sisterhood, it does so through Delicate lace, dainty jackets, and some hand-painted deers, rose, and pine trees. Such a pure, romantic, and satisfying collection.
Roland Mouret: Breezy tailoring, vivid colors, and retro-realistic silhouettes were the strong points in this collection. An orange skirt-suit with a cape was drenched in a vintage superhero fantasy. A brown shirt-sarong brown look was color-blocked with a vivid fuchsia was a wishlist essential.
Vivienne Westwood: Leveraging the Vintage Vivienne hype going around this collection was influenced by a painting by François Boucher ‘Daphnis and Chloe‘ 1743. Corsets, cutouts, plaid, and painting-printed complemented by a sharp mix of textures/materials clever styling, and a focus on sustainability; this collection was as pleasant as one could be. One of the more impressive collections by Vivienne Westwood recently.
Stella McCartney: Definitely one of my favorite Mccartney collections recently, she went all out with this one. The energy and charisma each look radiated was something very vital. exaggerated silhouettes, saturated colors, trippy prints, plaid, sequins came together to give us a 70s-sporty-glamorous appeal.
Richard Malone: With a dramatic and avant-garde approach, Malone does seem to be moving away from roots; though I do miss the quirkier Malone collections his work seems to have found the right tone and stability. Shown against a bright orange backdrop the strong points of this collection were geometric knits, playful deconstruction, refined ruching. Overall a pretty lovely collection by Malone.
Pictures courtesy Vogue Runway
Cover image Bora Aksu
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