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by Shreya S
Schiaparelli: Daniel Roseberry kills it again, absolutely loved this season. The accessories were interesting, the opaque glasses, the gold fingertips and bags were great. The clothes were beautifully made but wouldn’t mind some more surrealism.
Alaïa: Some looks were breezy, some quite thoughtful, a quite average collection I think. It was nothing that interesting or impactful, just had some nice looks.
Alexandre Vauthier: I don’t think it’s possible for me to not like Vauthier. Also walking around wearing bodysuit with a trench coat is all I wanna do. I would also like all the other looks as well, pls thanks.
Chloe: A quite mediocre collection by Chloe, yes that was me being nice. Mediocre is the most respectful way I could describe it. Some nice individual pieces but that’s about it.
Elie Saab: the looks you see below are the only good ones I guess. Though the colors were quite fun which is a new for me because I usually tend to focus on pastels when it comes to Elie Saab. With some really nice looks this collection seemed a bit casual that usual and surprisingly better.
Balmain: I’m still in shock but Balmain was one of the best shows this season. The neon, the glitter, the denim it was all amazing. Filled with a lot of Balmain print which IMO looks too much like the Givenchy logo print is probably expected to sell out which is an understandable move . Though some logo looks were nice, not the biggest fan of the logo itself.
Dries Van Noten: How can one not like DVN, this collection was absolutely amazing. A trippy yet grounded vibe formed by stripes, ruffles, fishnet, a lot of color. It was sunny and tropical while having a mind-bending effect. My favorite look was a vividly colorful satin shirt paired with a colorful ruffled skirt.
Marine Serre: Let me just say this, this was not good. It was quite disappointing actually, a blue bodysuit was too reminiscent of Jean Paul Gautier’s Cyber dots look. A pretty forgettable collection but a forgivable one.
Jacquemus: I’m just waiting for the next Jacquemus collection that’ll blow my mind. The last one I liked was a few seasons back. This one was quite repetitive, boring and might I say uninspiring. With each collection, it’s going downhill for me which is quite sad. But of course, it was quite aesthetic.
Rick Owens: A pleasant surprise of pink and red with black, of course, this Owens collection was quite peaceful yet badass and I’m pretty sure that’s the worst way to describe it. Some stunning thigh-high boots and masks, it was adventurous. A pretty yet dystopian vibe overall.
Rokh: An intense show for sure, named Night Wanderer this collection gave me major Post-apocalyptic/ Game of Thrones vibes. The leather straps were strong worn over some of the strongest looks done in the most refined manner. The Rokh girl is powerful and exquisite, dressed in what I would call 1800’s goth looks.
Giambattista Valli: Probably one of the most bland collections this season, it gave us nothing. It was very 2000’s but not in a good way. I did like a sheer lace white skirt suit but only because it was surrounded by some drabby looks.
Balenciaga: When I started writing these 2 lines I was not happy with this collection but with a deeper examination I’m coming around to it. This was underwhelming for sure but a few things did stand out, the fuzzy slides are an absolute need and I wouldn’t mind those baggy tracksuits and yes it’s tacky but I do want the grey sweatshirt with the text ‘Paris fashion week’.
Louis Vuitton: A quite average collection by LV this was still better than their last show. The bags were very commercial which I like but the shoes were painful to look at. A dive into genderless fashion which is appreciated it did have some nice pieces, a trench in teal stole my heart along with its beige sister piece.
Gabriela Hearst: With some beautiful looks this was the first show Paris Fashion Week by Hearst. Comprised of some very nice looks and a beautiful knitted multi colour dress and stunning leather looks with elegant cutouts.
Acne Studios: AC was quite nice this season, featuring a plethora of interesting materials in the most pleasing colors. The sheer looks and some oversized blazers were stunning. With some shoes I loved and some not so interesting bags the collection was well rounded off with clever layering.
Alexis Mabille: Mabille is gradually becoming the most awaited PFW Couture show for me and RTW is no behind. Among a few stunning looks one black and white gown stood out (left most look). Overall a few nice looks for a post pandemic gala.
Yohji Yamamoto: Started off with some black and white looks followed by some stunning sheer looks this collection was a classic Yamamoto collection. Then came a series of deeply minimal looks with almost a primal energy, the silhouettes slowly amplified into some voluminous looks with the textures I can best describe as dead dry leaves, and of course all the looks were black. It ended with 4 girls in white in crisp white looks.
Loewe: A stunning collection by JW Anderson, he has been killing it this pandemic season. Extravagant silhouettes with balloon like shapes paired with clean cuts in classic colors. A quite dramatic yet straightforward collection perfect for another WFH day or a sunny day out.
Hermes: A calming collection for sure, made in neutral colors like tan, grey and black, and just a pop of red with near-perfect tailoring and precision. The bags and shoes had a much needed casual feel and a leather skirt that appeared in various colors was simply stunning. Won’t say it was one of the best this season but it was adequate and fulfilled expectations.
Olivier Theyskens: A concealed sexuality was somehow pouring through the collection. Some exceptionally intense black gowns among some grey suits and a beautiful red velvet look, One look I loved was a leather dress with a lace-up neckline. Luxurious fabrics with a vintage vibe paired with a sense of drama was gratifying.
Maison Margiela: A Galliano beauty in substantially black, red and white with classic Margiela construction/ deconstruction. Highlights are some clear Tabis, fascinating shoulders, and stunning photography. A sheer deep red look sported by two models and basically the first ten looks are simply sublime.
Paco Rabanne: A stunning collection by Paco Rabanne, brimming with sexuality and strength it had couture-like yet wearable looks. With the Parisian street in the backdrop, it was quite a treat. A lot of looks with exaggerated breasts and intriguing shoes with impeccable details throughout led to some exquisite chainmail looks in silvers and gold.
Givenchy: Quiet an awaited show, this was Matthew Williams’s debut show for Givenchy. And surprisingly I liked it, TBH I was prepared to hate it as I was mourning for Clare Waight Keller’s Couture. With the sexy and youth amped up, I imagine it to be a huge hit, the bags were quite nice with intriguing shoes. Strong tailoring with streetwear-ish elements, I could pick up a lot of moments from various brands, a little bit of Bottega, Valentino, and even Attico. This was definitely a promising RTW but now we wait for Willam’s Couture.
Nina Ricci: As much as i enjoyed the video the collection wasn’t for me, some pieces were nice for sure but I wasn’t into the whole inspiration from L’Air du Temps (Nina Ricci’s perfume). The color palette was simply unpleasant and I just think it could have been so much better especially since their Fall 2020 was really great.
Miu Miu: Definitely one of my favorite collections this SS21, Miu Miu per usual was vibrant fun, and cute. I think I can never not like a collection by Mrs. Prada though this was undoubtedly wonderful. Vivacious colors in retro school girl yet sporty looks are basically my dream looks. Fashion at its best, I might just start a Gofundme to buy this whole collection.
Thom Browne: Well if only sports were actually this fun, to me at least. Set in 2132 Lunar Games and dressed in all shades of white the ‘athletes’ were walking down the stadium stairs. With blurred lines between menswear and womenswear and impeccable details it was quite easy to get lost in these pristine looks.
Lanvin: Held in Shanghai, this collection had some subtle Chinese references along with a classic Lanvin look. Meticulous and refined with an old school charm and a palpable Parisian touch to it, Lanvin was an absolute delight. The gowns, the prints, the umbrellas, the leather, the coats essentially everything was dripping with a vintage opulence.
Commes des Garcons: Though it was held in Tokyo, CDG has been a Paris usual for decades now. A daunting energy in a room with intense red lights. Among a lot of cellophane and substantial silhouettes, we saw a Minnie Mouse print which was anything but cute, doomy yet diverting. My favorite was a graphic eye print coat wrapped in cellophane that was kind of perfect to wear in these weird times.
Mugler: Being a Mugler Woman takes courage, this collection reaffirms this. A strong collection with daring cuts, bold silhouettes and fantastic coats .“I felt it was time to deal with the fantasy side of Mugler,” said Casey Cadwallader to Vogue and I couldn’t be more excited.
Chanel: Hollywood glam was the idea behind this Chanel show. I didn’t really like it at first because I was too focused on a few bad looks but with time appreciation came. Some looks were quite nice and we saw some beautiful white looks with a precisely tailored black suit.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
We do not own the rights to any of these images and they have been used in good faith. Every effort has been made to ensure that all images are used with proper credits. If you are the rightful owner of any image used on our site and wish to have it removed, please contact us at ayerhsmagazine@gmail.com and we will promptly remove it. We are a non-commercial, passion-driven, independent fashion blog and do not intend to infringe any copyright. Thank you for your understanding.
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