Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry: Why this is important for fashion

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by Shreya S

” Schiaparelli is both deeply rooted in reality as well as in fantasy. “Known as fashion’s first surrealist designer, Elsa Schiaparelli blessed us with some of the most intriguing looks of all time. One of my favorites is the ‘Tears dress’ created in collaboration with Salvador Dali which was also a reference to his work ‘ Three young surrealist women holding in their arms the skins of an orchestra’. The skeleton dress, the lobster dress, and the shoe-hat are some remarkable pieces created by Schiaparelli. After the Couture house closed in 1954, the brand was revived with its first show in 2014. Daniel Roseberry who worked at Thom Browne for 11 years was appointed as the artistic director in April 2019.

Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli is a godsend. I’ll be honest Schiaparelli wasn’t even on my radar before Roseberry. Little did I know about the brand before, and now I’m obsessed. Schiaparelli is this incredibly magical world, where everything feels possible,” “The mission of this brand is really to inspire people.” Roseberry said in an interview with Harper’s Bazaar.

Schiaparelli wasn’t a regular fashion brand from the beginning. Roseberry is working towards what the brand needs and stands for, he is bringing in extravagance and humor as he says. He has beautifully recreated some of Schiaparelli’s most prominent pieces and he also introduced a Ready to Wear line which is a smart yet surprising move. The RTW is crated with Schiaparelli signatures but with a more obvious commercial approach(which is vital for him to be the creative director for the long term). His work has generally garnered positive reviews and seems to be working well. He is placing the brand more glamorously and it is wilder and extreme gradually.

With each collection, his work seems to be getting bolder and brilliant. He has incorporated a lot of gold and jewelry moments and shows which is a smart move in terms of commercial viability. His reference to the archives of Schiaparelli also keeps the house rooted but is never direct imitation there’s something clever about how he chooses to incorporate certain elements. Emphasis on tailoring and details is something commendable.

Even with his Couture Fall 2020, a collection midst the pandemic he simply sketched the looks which were somehow even more enticing than the final product itself. The sense of mystery and possibility of creativity that one could indulge in was limitless. His Couture spring 2021 collection definitely his best work where the exploration of conventional couture ideas with grotesque elements was the pillar along with Roseberry’s valiance.

One of the highlights of his work is how complementary his RTW and Couture are in their essence but how they are contrasting details and execution. Each collection is like an extension of the other but always offering something new, it is almost a storytelling technique.

He challenges the conventional notions of clothes, beauty, and fashion. His daring approach is fascinating and needs to be cherished and encouraged. His work is glorious, almost genius, and very true to the brand. He is what Schiaparelli needed. And now Fashion needs him.

Haute Couture Fall 2019