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by Shreya S
Chanel: My initial thoughts about this collection were quite negative but as I looked more at this collection I liked it more. So Chanel had a very old school vibe this time, though most of the looks were easily forgettable I did like a few. Basically everything that Adut Akech wore, she literally brings life to everything. A few extravagant vintage-ish gowns were nice but still we expect a better Chanel.
Iris Van Herpen: Iris Van Herpen can never disappoint, it is simply not possible. The Transmotion dress was the highlight of this collection and yes it was out of this world magical. One dress but it was so genius that it outshines a full-fledged collection of many.
Dior: Maria Grazia tried really hard that we wouldn’t see the boring clothes behind the masterful cinematography(in the video) but we did. The clothes were boring as usual I think the most decent look was a black extravagant gown. We saw more of the badly draped belted on gowns among other dead looks. I did like a few extravagant gowns(see below)
Rahul Mishra: An absolutely ethereal collection, Rahul Mishra who joined the official Paris fashion week calendar last season feels like he has been a couturier forever. Intricate embroidery in gorgeous shades was so pleasing to the eye, it was beautiful experience just to swipe through the pictures.
Schiaparelli: Schiaparelli gave sketches of the collection that could have been. If only we could see this on the runway. Daniel Roseberry true to himself and the brand, created some absolutely stunning looks. A lot of fluffy flowy sleeves, structured suits and supremely sexy looks. A wonderful collection though sadly we couldn’t see it in reality.
Giambattista Valli: This collection was exquisite, I have kind of been turned off by Giambattista Valli for a while now. But this collection was so beautiful and true to the core of its a brand.Yhough it was heavy amounts of tulle in basic colors but sometimes we just need a lil predictable drama right? There was a white goes with red feathers, another version of a yellow feathered dress from last couture collection which was absolutely wonderful.
Viktor and Rolf: Comprising of only 9 looks, Viktor and Rolf stole my heart with their final look, a white coat dress with heart cutouts all around. The abstract looks were interesting, really liked the black one. Over all a decent collection.
Alexandre Vauthier: There were two looks(see below) in this collection so beautiful I can not remember anything else. An okay collection overall. I guess I expected more from Vauthier but since there is a pandemic going on, they get a free pass.
Guo Pei: Each look was inspired by an animal, be it deers, zebras or elephants. Though it was wildly creative and beautiful done it didn’t come across as Couture to me. Yes it wasn’t traditional but something felt a little off or even juvenile in some cases. I did like a green jacket with artfully embroidered giraffes.
Alexis Mabille: Alexis Mabille is my new love, the colors, the cuts, everything. I am in awe of this collection. With a more traditional approach and some beautiful looks this was definitely one of my favorites this season. Gorgeous colors against a bright magenta backdrop were pleasing but also reminiscent of the Margiela show last season.
Balmain: The Balmain presentation was held in the river Seine in Pairs. Though a very aesthetic and instagrammable show there were tears and exposed threads visible in the pictures. I mean that is not Couture, a few looks of true Couture is better than 30 looks undone. Though I did like this collection more than I usually like Balmain, the flaws kinda threw me off.
Ralph & Russo: A dreamy collection indeed, a deeply elegant and modern approach resulted in some wonderful looks. The final looks in shades of pink gave Giambattista Valli a major competition. And the yellow extravagant Cape look was clearly reminiscent of Rihanna at the Met Gala. All in all a mesmerizing collection for sure.
Ronald van der Kemp: Last collection I was quite disappointed with RVDK but this time, fucking hell. Loved this collection, it was all upcycled from his last show. He said to Vogue runway “I want to reinvent the notion of a couture house. When you’re smaller, you can move with the times and react. It would be a blessing for the whole world if these mega fashion companies became smaller companies.” and I couldn’t agree more.
Valentino: As if I didn’t love Pierpaolo enough already. An absolutely magnificent larger than life collection in white. Valentino proved its ability to adapt to the new normal and gave us something to dream about. Will rave about this collection for quite a while.
Pictures courtesy of Vogue Runway
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