A landmark collection in fashion: Yohji Yamamoto Spring 1999

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by Shreya S

“I want to achieve anti-fashion through fashion. That’s why I’m always heading in my own direction, in parallel to fashion.”

— Yohji Yamamoto

One of the most brilliantly wonderful shows in the history of fashion, Yohji Yamamoto’s spring-summer 1999 is beyond words. Tim Blanks called it “one of the most enchanting fashion shows I’ve ever seen” “As the show went on, it got more and more and more delightful. It took the audience somewhere; people were gasping and cheering. The things that happened to the clothing were just magical.” And Suzy Menkes called it the “zenith” of his career. Shalom Harlow said that it was “one of my all-time favorite shows… I think there was beauty and poetic sadness and laughter and humor.”

Always pushing boundaries, Yamamoto is regarded as one of the most creative and unique fashion designers of all time. With his first Paris fashion week presentation in 1981, he took the world by surprise along with the debut of Rei Kawakubo and Her label, Comme des Garçons which has similar concepts to Yamamoto. With his avant-garde tailoring, a dark color palette, and brilliant silhouettes which were quite revolutionary, he carved a place for himself in the fashion world. He gave the world something new and something more than what they were used to.

His work is known for his use of the color black which he describes as “Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy – but mysterious. But above all black says this: ‘I don’t bother you – don’t bother me’”. ‘Fabric is everything’ he said once. All the the fabrics used in his collections are made specifically in Japan.“He starts every design with fabric as opposed to the silhouette. It’s a typically Japanese approach.” says Ligaya Salazar “His garments are designed to last beyond seasons, and there’s a continued idea of concealing rather than revealing the body,” says Salazar, the curator behind the V&A Museum’s 2011 retrospective and celebration of Yamamoto’s work.

“Behind the wedding dress, there must be many stories,” Yamamoto said. With gorgeous looks in black and white and dresses within dresses and almost a never-ending feel to the collection, the show was described as enchanting magical and one of the best of all times. Far far away from a traditional bridal show, the collection featured a wedding gown with pockets revealing gloves, hat, flats, and a bouquet.

This particular collection will always have a special place in our hearts. Just watching the video gets me lost to another world I can only imagine the privilege of watching this live. Find below the collection