The only gem made by a living animal, and how it went from priceless to everyday.
By Shreya S · Last reviewed 15 November 2026
What is the difference between natural and cultured pearls?
Both are made by a mollusc coating an irritant with layers of nacre. A natural pearl forms by chance; a cultured pearl forms after a person places a bead or tissue inside the shell. Natural pearls were once among the most valuable things on Earth, which is why, in 1917, Cartier could take over its Fifth Avenue mansion in exchange for a double strand of them. Today they are extremely rare.
Who invented cultured pearls?
Kokichi Mikimoto produced the first cultured semi-round pearl in Japan in 1893, and his company made cultured pearls affordable worldwide in the following decades. Mikimoto is still one of the best-known pearl jewellers.
What are the main types?
Akoya pearls, from Japan and China, are small, round and very bright: the classic strand. South Sea pearls, from Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines, are large and white or golden. Tahitian pearls, from French Polynesia, are naturally dark, from grey to peacock green. Freshwater pearls, mostly from China, are the most affordable and come in many shapes, including the irregular baroque pearls designers love now.
How can you tell if a pearl is real, and how do you care for it?
Rub it gently against your front teeth: real pearls feel slightly gritty, while glass or plastic feels smooth. A lab can confirm it, and an X-ray tells natural from cultured. Pearls are soft, so put them on last, after perfume and hairspray, wipe them after wearing and have strands restrung every few years. Gabrielle Chanel made faux pearls just as famous.
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