How the clothes from the runway end up on the shop floor, and who chooses them.
By Shreya S · Last reviewed 15 November 2026
What does a fashion buyer do?
A buyer decides what a store will sell, from which brands, in what sizes, colours and quantities. They work to a budget, often called the open-to-buy, and are judged on how well their choices sell. Good buyers combine taste with numbers: they know their customers, and they know last season’s sales.
When and where do they buy?
During market weeks, which run alongside the fashion weeks. After the shows, buyers visit brands’ showrooms, try on samples and place orders, usually six months before the clothes reach stores. Some pieces on the runway are never made; the showroom collection is what actually sells.
What are sell-through and markdowns?
Sell-through is the share of stock sold at full price over a period. Whatever does not sell is marked down in the sales, which hurts profits and brand image, which is why luxury houses tightly control discounting. Some brands also agree to take back unsold stock or pay “markdown money” to keep retailers happy.
Why are big brands cutting wholesale?
Selling through other stores (wholesale) reaches more customers, but brands lose control over price and presentation. Many luxury houses have shifted towards their own boutiques and websites (direct-to-consumer), which hurt department stores. Yet for young designers, a single order from a respected buyer can still launch a career: Browns in London famously bought John Galliano’s entire graduate collection in 1984.
Read on Ayerhs: How to Price Your Fashion Products · The Future of Retail in 2026 · Jobs in Fashion