Chanel No. 5, Explained

The story of the world’s most famous perfume, more than a century on.

By Shreya S · Last reviewed 15 November 2026

Who created Chanel No. 5?

The perfumer Ernest Beaux, who had worked for the Russian imperial court, created it for Gabrielle Chanel in 1921 in Grasse. Chanel wanted a perfume that smelled like a woman rather than a single flower. Beaux presented a series of numbered samples; she chose the fifth, and five was also her lucky number.

What does it smell like, and why was it new?

A powdery floral built on May rose and jasmine, lifted by a large dose of aldehydes, synthetic materials that give a bright, soapy sparkle. Using synthetics so boldly was radical in 1921, and it made the scent abstract rather than a copy of a garden. The jasmine and roses are still grown for Chanel in fields near Grasse.

What did Marilyn Monroe say about it?

Asked in a 1952 interview what she wore to bed, she answered, “Chanel No. 5”. The line became the most valuable free advertising in perfume history. Later faces included Catherine Deneuve, Nicole Kidman and Marion Cotillard, and the square-shouldered bottle is in the collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

Which version should I try?

The parfum is closest to the original; the eau de parfum is the bestseller; L’Eau (2016) is lighter and fresher. They smell different, so test the exact version. Read more about the house in our Chanel guide.

Read on Ayerhs: Coco Chanel: The Life, Legacy, and Fashion Revolution of an Icon · 21 Luxury Christmas Gifts She’ll Love

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